How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

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Re: How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 08:34 pm Apr 04 2015

That's awesome--thank you! If you ever need a part, give me a shout and I'll return the favor. So that's the secret: buy in the land of Live Free or Die or Vacationland. :mrgreen:

Looking forward to seeing your build and thanks again for all the help. :partyman:
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Re: How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby s10gto » 08:47 pm Apr 04 2015

Pretty much! :mrgreen:

Heres my 220

viewtopic.php?f=86&t=17208
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How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby s10gto » 03:42 pm Apr 06 2015

Parts on the way Mayor! You should have them wed. :grin:
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How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 06:59 am Apr 07 2015

s10gto wrote:Parts on the way Mayor! You should have them wed. :grin:


You're the man! I have a whole list of parts, so if you need something someday, just hit me up. :supz:
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How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby s10gto » 10:13 am Apr 07 2015

Mayor Brap Brap wrote:
s10gto wrote:Parts on the way Mayor! You should have them wed. :grin:


You're the man! I have a whole list of parts, so if you need something someday, just hit me up. :supz:


Will do! Thanks
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Re: How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 02:27 pm Jun 08 2015

It's all finished! I originally went to get it inspected and failed because it didn't have DOT tires. A set of Trakmasters later, and it should pass. The battery is awesome. It never runs out of power, even with the bike turned off.

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How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby s10gto » 07:13 pm Jun 08 2015

Now that is SWEET! Nice Work Mayor! :partyman: How do you like the gearing? looks like you got 13/47 still. I started with 13/45 and it was ok ,but she was wound up pretty tight @ 50 with the power valve trying to open. Switched to 14/45 and she is perfect. :grin: Still plenty of bottom end in the woods. :mrgreen:
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How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 05:05 am Jun 09 2015

s10gto wrote:Now that is SWEET! Nice Work Mayor! :partyman: How do you like the gearing? looks like you got 13/47 still. I started with 13/45 and it was ok ,but she was wound up pretty tight @ 50 with the power valve trying to open. Switched to 14/45 and she is perfect. :grin: Still plenty of bottom end in the woods. :mrgreen:


Thanks man! It runs like a champ, but I still could use some more kick down low. I noticed this when I traded with my friend, who has a 220. That thing propels you the second you twist the throttle while I feel like the 200 has better mid and top end power. Did your gearing change help with more low end grunt?
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How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby s10gto » 05:48 am Jun 09 2015

Stock is was 13/47. Now at 14/45 has less low end but still goes great in the woods. Mine is a 220.
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Re: How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby mercadom » 08:17 pm Jun 20 2015

Hi Mayor, The Bike looks great !
Thank you for all the good info about adding the LEAD Acid Battery to the DC lighting system. I was wondering if you can give us some real live result on how this set-up is working out and how is the battery holding up in relation to the demand ? I would like to do this very setup, but I am not sure what proper size (Amp rating) to get. I plan to run 85watt Rick's lightning coil, I am forecasting approx. 40~50 watts total demand between Headlight bulb LED (Cyclops 3600) @ 20w low /30w high, LED Turn, LED Tail/Stop and Horn and possible adding a VAPOR later on .... Thanks !
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Re: How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 07:34 am Jun 21 2015

mercadom wrote:Hi Mayor, The Bike looks great !
Thank you for all the good info about adding the LEAD Acid Battery to the DC lighting system. I was wondering if you can give us some real live result on how this set-up is working out and how is the battery holding up in relation to the demand ? I would like to do this very setup, but I am not sure what proper size (Amp rating) to get. I plan to run 85watt Rick's lightning coil, I am forecasting approx. 40~50 watts total demand between Headlight bulb LED (Cyclops 3600) @ 20w low /30w high, LED Turn, LED Tail/Stop and Horn and possible adding a VAPOR later on .... Thanks !


With everything being LED, it's almost like the battery is too big. I can keep the lights on for quite a long time after the bike is shut off. The battery is 3.2 or 3.5A and the total demand is probably between 30 and 40W, though that's if I use multiple lights at once (turns, brake, high beam, etc.) it's all probably closer to 30W.

The great part of this setup is not having to charge the battery, and I still get plenty of airflow in the air box. Rewinding the coil helps (you could do it yourself with patience and soldering iron), as does floating the ground.

Since your demand is higher than mine, you might want to opt for a 4A or higher, but that will be difficult to fit. The one I got seems like it was made to fit in the KDX airbox.

The best part is everything passed inspection!
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Re: How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby mercadom » 04:35 pm Jun 22 2015

Thanks for the quick response! That is exactly what I want to accomplish, to use the battery to run the lights for a reasonable long amount of time so that I can pass DMV inspection, I am plating my bike in Connecticut…

I also want to make the best possible use of the DC system by properly balancing the Charging capacity vs. demand vs. unused “Surface Charge” once the battery is completely charged. I don’t want to get to small of a battery where it will be top off to quickly during the day (due to headlight off to preserve bulb life) and then the excess “surface charge” from the coil gets shorted out to ground via the Reg/Rec which will increase heat at Reg/Rec and will reduced its lifespan, I think.

Few more questions:
How long can your battery run your headlight and tail (not brake) with the bike off, mins or hrs ?
Do you have any other accessories like a vapor or a backlight for your speedo (if you have one).?
How hot does your Reg/Rec run ?
Do you run your headlight on all the time while riding ?

I came across this informative video which helped me understand the basic concepts of the DC system and how it works, and at what point the battery comes into play… Hope it will helps other.
https://www.youtube.com/v/D8FftSBziUQ

Thanks !!
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Re: How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby Mayor Brap Brap » 04:07 pm Jun 23 2015

mercadom wrote:Thanks for the quick response! That is exactly what I want to accomplish, to use the battery to run the lights for a reasonable long amount of time so that I can pass DMV inspection, I am plating my bike in Connecticut…

I also want to make the best possible use of the DC system by properly balancing the Charging capacity vs. demand vs. unused “Surface Charge” once the battery is completely charged. I don’t want to get to small of a battery where it will be top off to quickly during the day (due to headlight off to preserve bulb life) and then the excess “surface charge” from the coil gets shorted out to ground via the Reg/Rec which will increase heat at Reg/Rec and will reduced its lifespan, I think.

Few more questions:
How long can your battery run your headlight and tail (not brake) with the bike off, mins or hrs ?
Do you have any other accessories like a vapor or a backlight for your speedo (if you have one).?
How hot does your Reg/Rec run ?
Do you run your headlight on all the time while riding ?

I came across this informative video which helped me understand the basic concepts of the DC system and how it works, and at what point the battery comes into play… Hope it will helps other.
https://www.youtube.com/v/D8FftSBziUQ

Thanks !!


Honestly, I haven't tested the length of time, but I know that when I was working on the wiring all winter, I never charged it. I was constantly testing the lights, horn, etc. with the bike off and it always had power. When we stop on a trail for five to 10 minutes and I've left my lights on, they are always still on and there's plenty of power.

I have a Vapor, connected right to the battery. The backlight stays on at all times, and even 20 minutes after it's done being used. It's the best way to run it––right from the battery.

I don't know how hot the Reg/Rec runs because I just ride the thing. I got a universal one, connected right to the yellow and floated ground wire I ran up from the coil, and it all seems to work perfectly.

I run my headlight half the time––today I ran it the whole ride (we ride the road to connect trails). That 15W LED is bright as hell, and it's a simple H4 plug. I highly recommend it. All in all, I couldn't be happier with this setup. It's basically a Tusk kit with my own brake light/tail, horn, and blinkers. And far superior battery.

I'll take a look at that video. I was terrified of electricity before doing this project, but now I feel confident in wiring up anything. Also, go to cycleterminal.com for connectors. I ended up getting the waterproof bullet connectors and a few other things. All my wiring withstood a monsoon rain overnight, in addition to many bike washes.
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How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby jonnywishbone » 08:44 pm Sep 08 2015

Looks great nice work. New to this so bare with me. Almost finished my tusk kit, just wondering how you hooked up your rear brake light switch?
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Re: How to Modify Tusk Dual Sport Kit

Postby DJNiedz » 06:58 pm Sep 09 2015

Just read this thread. good stuff.

That is one BOSS looking KDX!!! I like that headlight, mine could use an upgrade.
The black fender looks really cool. Is that an aftermarket? If so, which one?

my KDX is plated, not inspected though. A plate is enough to enter an enduro or dual sport event.
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Re: How To Add a Sealed Lead Acid Battery to Lighting Circui

Postby RTB » 09:51 am Mar 10 2016

Mayor Brap Brap wrote:I figured it out! There are two stable power leads at the front of the Tusk harness––the brake light switch and the horn. I went with the brake light switch because there was more room. I added a 3-way connector in place of its single connector. This allows me to connect the headlight main and Vapor + when I install it.

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I replaced the blinker ground dual connector with a 3-way, then made a lead coming off that with a two-way connector. This way both blinkers, headlight negative, and Vapor - can connect.

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Headlight works without any trouble, as does everything else. Now I have to wait for the Polisport Halo to come in from Germany (Europeans get the green ones), and some day the Vapor.

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Hey I'm trying to do the same thing and can't seem to get it to work, I've got 3 wires from my headlight a brown ground, a white and blue, I've tried connecting the brown ground to the black turn signal ground and running the black headlight main power to the red wire for the front brake switch for power and then connecting the headlight wires up....nothing..... Any ideas? Am I using the right wire from the brake switch? Thanks!
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