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do I need to get a cylinder holder and take out the bottom 14mm hex to change seals only? or can I do it without??

Thanks

You can do it w/o taking the bottom of the fork apart.

6 Riders wrote:You can do it w/o taking the bottom of the fork apart.

Thanks, If i pull the tubes they should separate enough to get the seals out? or do i need to do something special?

Just pull them apart. Might take a few "slide hammer" type slides but they will separate.

Are you sure??? I am thinking the cartridge has to come out on the 1995+ forks, if this is what we are talking about.

Yeeeah I was hesitant to comment because I am not 100% on the H conventional forks. But on my E forks, the valves(bottom 14mm hex) are threaded to the damper rod which all needs to b removed before separating the tubes. You will destroy your inner bushings if you try to separate them without taking the valving and damper out first. Damper rod tool can be made from a 27mm nut welded to the end of an 18" T-bar

But I am pretty sure the only difference in E and H internals is the retaining rod up top for the spring/washer/preload spacer. And of course the spring rates, maybe the valving is different.

Check pages 3-4 of suspension overhaul link in my signature

I re-sealed mine w/o removing the dampening rod. Took the top of the fork apart, left the bottoms in it. Also, IIRC the fork seals can be removed w/o disassembling of the forks. The top of the fork needs to come off to prevent tearing, but other than that, remove retaining clip, pop the seals out, using a lube on the fork legs, slide new seals down, seat and replace the clip.
The USD forks must come apart because the lower part of the fork is in the way of sliding seals on. Those seals are put onto the tube in a disassembled state.