KDXRIDER.NET

Hello everyone, Eric from Ohio in the good ole U.S. of A. I've grown up racing district 11 motocross from 12--16 years old. I am now 28 and have not been on a motocross bike in the past 5 years (I ride a streetbike regularly)

Question? Do I spend more $$$$ to buy a newer, fresher KDX 200 or do I spend less then $1k. on a older early 90's KDX???

I will not be riding motocross ever again (injuries) but behind my house I have miles & miles of rocky, gravel creek bed to ride in aswell as many wide open famers fields to play in. These KDX'S seem to have no power, (I've test ridden a few, didn't buy any of them) To me they seem to be low on compression??? What would a kdx 200 low on compression feel like.?

Example: The 1990 Kdx 200 I test rode with 1680 original miles on it didn't really "pull" at all. I weight 165lbs. I sat all the way forward on the gas cap, pegged the throttle in 1st gear and speed shifted wide open 1st. thru 3rd. gear and the front tire b_a_r_e_l_Y left the road maybe an inch of 2. Subsequently I didn't buy that bike assume it must need a top end rebuild. Am I wrong assuming this?

Help a semi retired ex. B class motocross racer come to grips with how a STRONG used kdx 200 should feel and pull, I don't want to end up buying junk because of lack of KDX specific knowledge.

if your willing to make the trip out to MI come get one of mine ;)

http://holland.craigslist.org/mcy/4698093031.html

KDX's are very mellow in stock form. Stock for stock a 125 will clean a KDX's clock in a drag race. They are maybe 27-29 hp stock. A pipe and rejet are the biggest bang for the buck, probably get you to 32-ish hp. So stock 125 territory, but with a far wider powerband. Throw the checkbook at it and maybe get 36-37 hp.

My 220 was ported, head recut, carb bored out, exhaust, etc etc. It was stock 250F fast, and that was mid-2000's, todays 250F's are another level ahead. Stock 250 two strokes are top fuel dragsters compared to a KDX.


All that said, its a great motor for technical riding. I went to a YZ250 for harescramble racing, pumped tons of money in it, and by the time I reached A class I realized 30 hp would be more than I needed 99% of the time. Hence, there's a KDX engine sitting in the garage, a hybrid is my next bike once I find the right chassis. The powerband and transmission ratios are just really good for off road stuff.

Try to get a 95+ KDX (H series). The 95 through 06 are basically the same bike. The older (E-series) KDX parts are getting harder and harder to come by these days. If the bike has an AM head pipe on it, it should pull all day long, not like an MX bike of course but it will pull all the way through 6th gear and should top out quite a bit faster (speed) than a 125.

even though I have and love the E series kdx, I would tell you to get a H series 95+ bike. you can easily get parts, if you need them. If you have patience and don't mind rebuilding a bike, the E series IS a serious contender. IMO, neither bike has an equal except each other. As an example, with 13-49 gearing and all the bolt on goodies, stock internals, My old E series picks up 3rd for a long wheelie. a factory bike, forget it. These bikes respond very well to mods, E and H series.

Better yet, build a hybrid. My hybrid keeps up with FMF'd 04 yz 250 2t with nary a problem. 6th gear is see ya later. then again, my hybrid doesn't try to kill me at the top of every gear. pick your poison.

I don't see where you are located but like the post above, if you can make it to SW MO, I have a really nice 95 200 ready to go! It's on Craigs in Springfield MO. The listing states it can be seen at a local motorcycle shop.

It's listed at $1795, but for a member of this site $1500.

Yes this is a shameless plug

6 Riders wrote: If the bike has an AM head pipe on it, it should pull all day long, not like an MX bike of course but it will pull all the way through 6th gear and should top out quite a bit faster (speed) than a 125.

I should have mentioned that too.

Half of what makes the KDX so great is the transmission. Crawler 1st, good spread 2-5th, and ubber overdrive 6th. My 220 ran 72 mph stone stock, and a bit over 81 mph after engine mods.

Every MX bike I've had is a compromise off road. If I geared my YZ250 to get 1st low enough for a hike-a-bike ride in the mountains, then transfer sections sucked because it felt like you were reving it to death at 50 mph. Gear it for open sections and then you'd struggle to not burn the clutch out of it in technical areas. There was a reason I swapped WR 426 gears in it! Still, I longed for the well-thought-out ratios of the KDX 6 speed.

Eric Walls wrote:Hello everyone, Eric from Ohio in the good ole U.S. of A. I've grown up racing district 11 motocross from 12--16 years old. I am now 28 and have not been on a motocross bike in the past 5 years (I ride a streetbike regularly)

Question? Do I spend more $$$$ to buy a newer, fresher KDX 200 or do I spend less then $1k. on a older early 90's KDX???

I will not be riding motocross ever again (injuries) but behind my house I have miles & miles of rocky, gravel creek bed to ride in aswell as many wide open famers fields to play in. These KDX'S seem to have no power, (I've test ridden a few, didn't buy any of them) To me they seem to be low on compression??? What would a kdx 200 low on compression feel like.?

Example: The 1990 Kdx 200 I test rode with 1680 original miles on it didn't really "pull" at all. I weight 165lbs. I sat all the way forward on the gas cap, pegged the throttle in 1st gear and speed shifted wide open 1st. thru 3rd. gear and the front tire b_a_r_e_l_Y left the road maybe an inch of 2. Subsequently I didn't buy that bike assume it must need a top end rebuild. Am I wrong assuming this?

Help a semi retired ex. B class motocross racer come to grips with how a STRONG used kdx 200 should feel and pull, I don't want to end up buying junk because of lack of KDX specific knowledge.

i don't think you will ever realize the kdxs strong points from a power perspective. its fantastic at tight words and climbing, but not really a point in comparing it to mx bikes, they simply aren't in the same league.

the slow, tight, gnarley single and double track is where it shines, not the launch.

look at excw 250 and 200 if you want more hit.

If you just want a reliable..fun & friendly `trail` bike or `play` bike then you can`t go wrong with either the 200 or 220..

Sure there are a lot more faster & more focused `enduro` type bikes on the market wether 4 stroke or 2 stroke..but this all depends on how much $$ you want to spend buying & maintaining these focused bikes...

I have owned my 220 for the last 5 years & loved every minute of ownership...I have added the usual sensible mods over the years but I never get bored of riding it...its just faultless & it keeps up with my riding buddies on their 5k machines & at a fraction of the cost too !!

Power wise yes they kick out around 27hp...add a pipe & a few other over the counter tweeks & it will easy bump up the hp to around 30ish ...i have a full port job on my 220 , machined head, kdx 200 35mm carb jetted & dyno`d along with a FMF pipe & mine pushes out a very healthy yet smooth & manageable 40hp ..which is plenty enough for me on my trails.

So there you go...food for thought....a good, fun & reliable bike that you can buy & have great fun on.....I`m sure there are plenty of owners on here that will tell you the same, but don't just take our word for it...go green

I am reading each and everyone of your guys messages. I have been spending multiple hours searching the far reaches of the internet in search of a good, clean H-series KDX 200 for no more then $1k. and believe it or not I found 2, one was already sold and the second one sold while I was in route to go pick it up......that stung a little. I'll keep looking but it seems as if there going price in my area (central ohio) is between $1300--$1500 bucks. I'm going to try an hold firm at no more then $1k. maybe $1100 if I fall in love with one. Kinda digging the 1996's with the purple tanks, looks unique

Buy the best one you can afford ( they never changed that much from 95 onwards, just colours )....check the usual wear & tear ....& neglect !

Because they are quite a hardy, low maintenance bike, some owners just ride the guts out of them & don't replace anything until they either break or fall off ( which can be a very long time )....so if something is going cheap or requires work, its probably stuffed....yet she`ll still run !...just beware..

$1k and you're going to get somewhat of a project bike. it's REAL easy to spend another $1000 between new tires, top end, reeds, bearings and suspension.... I've had 5 different bikes and no matter how hard I try, it always seems that by the time the bike is 100% ready for the trail, I've got $3k into it.

My suggestion is to stack a few more dollars and buy one that someone already put $$$$ into.

Eric Walls wrote:I I'm going to try an hold firm at no more then $1k. maybe $1100 if I fall in love with one. Kinda digging the 1996's with the purple tanks, looks unique

shoot me a PM ;)

I've owned all models. Get an H model 200 or 220. I prefer the 220 with boyeson reeds and a rev pipe. You're looking at mid 30's HP, plenty of power...with RB mods it pulls almost like a 250. I have a new KTM 250 exc, and the KDX220 has a slightly harder mid hit and almost as much pull. Power is NOT an issue with a good running engine.
Stick some USD forks on it - they really complement the rigid perimeter frame giving unusually good rider feedback and steering precision, and go ride it for years.

Here's a link to my 220 ride video (hope it works). I weigh 165 and I'm an oid guy (late sixties) but I can still work the KDX pretty well. Check out the low-end pull and adequate rev-out. The bike is setup with revalved 03 yamaha 125 forks stock springs, lighter shock spring, RB head mod and carb mod.

I paid 1000 for this bike and put another 1500 into it. I paid 1100 for the H model 200 I just sold and put about 750 into it, both with front USD's. They were both very low-time bikes....just be patient.

kawagumby wrote:I've owned all models. Get an H model 200 or 220. I prefer the 220 with boyeson reeds and a rev pipe. You're looking at mid 30's HP, plenty of power...with RB mods it pulls almost like a 250. I have a new KTM 250 exc, and the KDX220 has a slightly harder mid hit and almost as much pull. Power is NOT an issue with a good running engine.
Stick some USD forks on it - they really complement the rigid perimeter frame giving unusually good rider feedback and steering precision, and go ride it for years.

Here's a link to my 220 ride video (hope it works). I weigh 165 and I'm an oid guy (late sixties) but I can still work the KDX pretty well. Check out the low-end pull and adequate rev-out. The bike is setup with revalved 03 yamaha 125 forks stock springs, lighter shock spring, RB head mod and carb mod.

I paid 1000 for this bike and put another 1500 into it. I paid 1100 for the H model 200 I just sold and put about 750 into it, both with front USD's. They were both very low-time bikes....just be patient.

oh wowwwww


dude is ripping in third/ fourth on some of the hardest stuff to gain traction on : Sun baked sand and dessert dirt!!!

what tires and gearing are you running? you have20 years on me, above would smoke me... way to go sir, keep it up!

Thanks!
The gearing is stock, I use Kenda Millville or Washougal front tires as they work pretty well for all conditions, wet or dry (medium terrain setting - directional). The rear is a Dunlop MX71 61M which is good for hard pack, or pack with sand cap (no good for wet).
The trick to hooking up, IMO, is getting the suspension dialed so the tires can follow the terrain.

SOOOOOOOOO, Guys I bought a KDX.

2003 KDX 200, came from Illinois with a clean & clear Illinois offroad title.
Price: $950 bucks.

I'm excited as heck about it, but already have many many questions. Bike is totally stock as far as I can tell. I doubt its ever been rebuilt bc. the previous owner didn't have a clue about anything, (said it was his first dirtbike)

*I do have major spooge issues (dripping spooge onto swingarm from scilencer/pipe connection)
* Seem to be running very rich (a lot of smoke, does not foul plugs at all)
* Kips rattle is VERY loud (does that mean its working or broken?)

I understand this isn't the correct section for all of my question, so I will ask away in the proper threads. The bike runs & rides okay but honestly the power isn't really there. I will be changing front & back tires along with front & rear wheel bearings this week. Also dropping down to a 12 tooth front sprocket in a attempt to find more "pulling" power.

I'll post pictures as soon as I figure out how

Congrats on the purchase.

Go through the jetting process before you buy the 12 tooth sprocket. Proper jetting should give you the power you are looking for.

Geez those pictures are to big, sorry about that. These are the only pictures I have right now, nothing close up yet.
I've never in my life rejetted a carb before but I have the next 3-days off work. I know a 200cc. 2-stroke has more power then what this bike feels like,...I just have to find that power. I'll be reading anything and everything about kdx jetting these next 24 hours.

Any jetting guru's out there, assuming my 2003 kdx 200 is bone bone stock, running a fresh br8es spark plug, brand new air filter, I live in ohio at an average elevation of 630ft. above sea level; what would be my best "starting point" for jetting be. I just honestly don't have a clue. I'll be reading online info the rest of today