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OK, so I took the great advice from all on this board and sent my head and Carb from my '03 220 to RB and purchased a Wiseco piston kit. Have all parts back and all KIPS parts clean. Ready to put back together. Then I noticed that my gasket kit came with 2 new seals for the KIPS shaft. The problem is my old seals are stuck to the cylinder and I cannot get them out to install the new seals. Any advice in getting these seals out? I have tried small screwdriver, dental pick, small needle nose pliers. No luck ;(

Thanks for any help you can offer.

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Can you cut them in half with an X-acto knife or something similar and then pry them out?

I think when I've removed those I've just put a screwdriver in the hole and pried it out.

Good idea Ted. Will try that.

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Success!!! The X-acto trick did not work but the screwdriver did. My problem was I was using small tools to grab the seal and when I tried a larger flat blade screwdriver just small enough to fit inside the seal opening it gave me the force I needed to pop the seal out. Thanks for the help!

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be sure to check the newb thread in my sig for does and don't.

Fired it up tonight and sounds awesome! I do not see the link to the noob mistakes?

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One mistake I made was not seeing that RB removed the locating pins from my head until I already had it installed and torqued... Had to pop it back off and install the pins. RB did a great job on the Carb and head. The bike fired up on 2nd kick and the off idle throttle was crisp out of the box. Have not ridden yet because I broke my shift lever trying to bend it back in shape ;( Ordered a new one and a spare on eBay.

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Just as an FYI, I have had bad luck with aftermarket aluminum shifters on my KDXs. They get loose very easily, wear quickly on the splines, and just generally piss me off. I have reverted back to the steel stocker shifters. I have not tried the IMS steel shifter, though, so it might work better than the aluminum.

Thanks for the info. I ordered 2 MSR shifters. 1 aluminum and 1 steel. Thinking I need at least one spare as the shaft is so hidden the vice grip trick would not work very well on the trail.

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I currently have an MSR shifter on my E....It sticks out about 3/4" farther from the case than a stock shifter.....maybe it's actually a shifter for an H?

dfeckel wrote:Just as an FYI, I have had bad luck with aftermarket aluminum shifters on my KDXs. They get loose very easily, wear quickly on the splines, and just generally piss me off. I have reverted back to the steel stocker shifters. I have not tried the IMS steel shifter, though, so it might work better than the aluminum.

my fix:
use red loctite , !!! but only on the splines !!!, then blue on the bolt. it keeps the bolt from falling out and the splines from wearing due to vibration. when it's time to remove the shifter, remove the bolt normally, and jam a flat head screwdriver in the slot, it will break the red loctite like candle wax and the shifter slip off easily.

make sure you pick all the old loctite off or melt it before reinstalling the lever. it comes of easy with a sharp pick/scribe.

if the splines are worn already, clamp the lever in a vise and saw through it with a thin hack saw blade. then do the loctite trick and it will hold for a few millennia ;-) like it should.

if you're paranoid, out
put a longer bolt through, and a nut (with blue loctite!) on the end if it. then you don't have to worry about stepped threads either.

good luck

Thanks for the Tip!

When I just did mine I didnt see any seal for the kips shaft?

There are seals on both sides of the cylinder where the main shaft enters and exits

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Here is one, the other looks just like it on the other side.



There is also an o-ring on this shaft: