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Wonder why he removed the specs from the website...

Good question.

Just put the silver springs in today. I could only do the driveway test and short squirt down the street. Seems much more normal with additional benefits. I'm left handed so using a clutch is easier but what I noticed now with the auto clutch and silver springs is the power comes on so smooth a low revs that if you wanted the bike would clime over itself with in one bike length. What I mean is with just a small roll of the throttle you could pick the front wheel up and turn it round 180. This could always be done with a clutch but a lot of things are I play. Now it's all so simplified, no revs no fuss

I can do that on my road bike ie pull a wheel stand from 0 and hold the wheel where I want it but you are working hard at the clutch and throttle.

royadams wrote:I bought a hayes stroker carbon mountain bike master on ebay for around $50, thats what the recluse uses. A line kit with bonjo fittings$20. I say this because i first ordered the wrong line. And had a friend machine me a fitting to replace the reservoir in the rear brake master.

Curious to how that is working for you. Updates?

Tioli wrote: what I noticed now with the auto clutch and silver springs is the power comes on so smooth a low revs that if you wanted the bike would clime over itself with in one bike length. What I mean is with just a small roll of the throttle you could pick the front wheel up and turn it round 180. This could always be done with a clutch but a lot of things are I play. Now it's all so simplified, no revs no fuss

Thanks for this info. I still haven't tested the silver springs or the heavy wedges.

Question for you, can you get the clutch to slip at all at low rpm's with the silver springs? Or is it instant lock-up no matter what you do with the throttle?

I am running all silver medium wedges. The only slippage I have attained is with second gear starts. Proper gear and no slippage

ecojbr wrote:I am running all silver medium wedges. The only slippage I have attained is with second gear starts. Proper gear and no slippage

Thanks.

With medium and red springs, I can slip the clutch at low RPM's and being easy on the throttle. Which comes in really handy on off-camber, slippery mountain side trails. If the rear tire starts spinning, you will likely wind up somewhere down the mountain side.

But with a little more throttle, no slipping.

I need to just get around to testing the silver springs and the heavy wedges to experience it for myself.

I know what you mean Ted. I sort of ordered the silver springs the same time as I put all red in. With all red and medium I had the feeling this is getting close as the engine braking improved and slippage was just a little on the high side. All silver may overshoot the mark.

I will probably only get one ride in before Christmas so went all silver to see what happens and go from there.
I had the same thought as you in regards to hooking up to easily. I can see a situation on hill climes where there may not be enough slip range to play with. This should not be to much of a problem as I have not cluttered the realestate on my handlebars like some.

As a side note I am working my up the gear ratios now. 13/49 is way to low with the power Im making then add a auto clutch. So I have gone silver springs and 13/46 in one change.

Hey guys,

I picked up a 2006 KDX220R last June. It was completely stock when I bought it, and in mint condition. The first thing I did was put a wiesco piston in it, and add a Gnarly woods pipe.

The KDX is a great woods bike, but all my buddies are rocking Rekluses these days... My next project I want to do on the KDX, is the YZ125 clutch basket and recluse upgrade.

What I need to know is, what year/s of YZ125 clutch baskets work for this conversion?

Welcome to kdxrider.

I did this 2 yrs ago.
Rekluse: Heavy wedges/6 Silver springs. Basket is from a 2004 CR125. Friction plates are 05 CR250F.
The CR250F plates are 11.89mm wide vs 8.36 on the stock KDX. CRF250 friction plate is about 42% wider than the stock KDX friction plate. You have to eliminate 3 plates. Even though you lose 3 frictions the net result is very close to stock. The surface area of the stock KDX friction plate is 8 sq/cm. So 8 plates x 8 sq/cm gives us 64 sq/cm of surface area. The hybrid clutch uses only 5 friction plates, but they are 42% wider. So instead of 8 sq/cm, they are 11.36 sq/cm (8 x 42%). Five frictions provide 56.8 sq/cm and EXP disk has 1/2 the surface area of 5.5 sq/cm. Putting it all together = 62.3 sq/cm of surface area. That puts the hybrid clutch down just 3% from a stock KDX clutch.

Added a shim to the pressure plate push rod to make up for the difference in hub depth. Top friction plate is app .025” below top of basket which means push rod is further away from actuator rod.

Another bit of advice:
Use a 4 chuck lathe when turning the basket. This is the only way to achieve high precision centering.
Have the bike there during machining and fit test often. Remember to fit test with the gasket. The water pump gear is the main clearance issue that interferes with the basket. Use machinist blue on basket to determine where to remove material.

bradf wrote:Another bit of advice:
Use a 4 chuck lathe when turning the basket. This is the only way to achieve high precision centering.
Have the bike there during machining and fit test often. Remember to fit test with the gasket. The water pump gear is the main clearance issue that interferes with the basket. Use machinist blue on basket to determine where to remove material.

This will be extremely helpful! I'll talk the the machinists at my work and see who can help me with the 4 chuck lathe.

Even using the different clutch plates, the only area that needs machining is the bottom/ back side of the clutch basket (to make clearance for the water pump gear) correct? The other plates still slide right into the yz125 basket, right?

Just want to make sure before I start purchasing everything.

Thanks for all the help!

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

I drilled many more oil holes in the hub. Staggered them too. All slots had 2 holes and got 2 more.

bradf wrote:I drilled many more oil holes in the hub. Staggered them too. All slots had 2 holes and got 2 more.

I've put a bid in on a Hidson 2001 CR125 clutch basket. I'm trying to find a 04-09 crf250r rekluse clutch, but all the sites are saying that the EXP 3.0 doesn't fit...

What rekluse model did you get?

The Radius X says it will fit, but not sure if it will work in a KDX conversion...

Thanks for the help,

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

It appears TEDH98 isn't doing these anymore? Also, has dropped the website showing how to do it :(
Does anyone have info on how to do this? At min. do you know which year yz 125 clutch basket to use?? I am certain I can figure it all out, but I don't want to order the wrong year.

Faulknerm wrote:It appears TEDH98 isn't doing these anymore? Also, has dropped the website showing how to do it :(
Does anyone have info on how to do this? At min. do you know which year yz 125 clutch basket to use?? I am certain I can figure it all out, but I don't want to order the wrong year.

Faulknerm, I'm kind of in the same boat. It seems that the clutch basket year is less of a concern as finding a rekluse clutch that works in said clutch basket... If you. Read the response to my earlier posts, someone used a CR125 basket too.

I'm getting closer and closer to ordering an EFM auto clutch, but still like the idea of a clutch lever.

I ordered a Hydraulic clutch assembly for now. We'll see how it works out.

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

You will need a 94-04 Yamaha YZ 125 clutch basket and the same year of Rekluse 3.0 EXP auto clutch. Use the YZ friction plates and the KDX steel plates. You will need to transfer the gearset and rubber cushions from the KDX basket to the new YZ basket. This is where the machine work comes into play. You will also need to machine the back corner of the basket to clear the water pump gear. You can use the stock KDX hub and push plate for activation of the cable but this is trial and error. A couple of websites that were helpful to me besides TedHs site were iccr.us and trials.com.au if they are still up. I have been running this for about a year with a Rekluse LHRB [old style] and have really liked it. As they say, it is almost like cheating, but I take all the help I can get. Hope this helps. Good Luck!!!

Thanks oldmankdx.... I'm picking up a kdx today, and if it goes well, I'll order a basket and clutch this evening.

Are you sure of the year? They don't seem to make a rekluse for a 99-04 yz125