rear caliper pins
- kdxquebec
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rear caliper pins
My new ridding buddy own a 220 since 4 months now. He begins in mecnanics too.
So yesterday he called me and said he round-off (stripped) the inside of the allen pins.Now the pins are round.He can not remove the 2 pins.
The problem: last time he installed the pads he added pemanent locktite insted of anti-size.
My suggestion is to bring his caliper at a machine shop to remove them without hurt the calipers threads...
Do you have an other method or an other idea?
thanks from him..... and do not try.... this is not me
So yesterday he called me and said he round-off (stripped) the inside of the allen pins.Now the pins are round.He can not remove the 2 pins.
The problem: last time he installed the pads he added pemanent locktite insted of anti-size.
My suggestion is to bring his caliper at a machine shop to remove them without hurt the calipers threads...
Do you have an other method or an other idea?
thanks from him..... and do not try.... this is not me
'89 KDX 198cc '03 Gasgas Ec250 '13 Husaberg Te300
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- Indawoods
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Heat... you must use heat to break the bond on loc-tite. Actually it would probably be easier and cheaper just to replace the caliper... When it hits your pocketbook... you learn real quick!
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"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
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Did he go through a set of pads in four months?
Are you saying he used 271 red on the threads?!
I think the threads are 10mm x 1.0mm. If that is the case, then I don't know how much I would beat on it with a hand impact driver. Is there any chance to heat the caliper pin without very directly heating the caliper? Is there enough room to grab the pin with some thin Vise-Grip type pliers? What about using a worn down cut off wheel to cut a slot in the caliper pin head and then use a flat head screwdriver while turning with the pliers also? Beyond that, start with a small drill bit and work your way outward. Try to find some left handed drill bits if you can. I don't know how agressive I would get with a screw extractor if some red Loc-Tite holding in a pin.
BE PATIENT and good luck.
Are you saying he used 271 red on the threads?!
I think the threads are 10mm x 1.0mm. If that is the case, then I don't know how much I would beat on it with a hand impact driver. Is there any chance to heat the caliper pin without very directly heating the caliper? Is there enough room to grab the pin with some thin Vise-Grip type pliers? What about using a worn down cut off wheel to cut a slot in the caliper pin head and then use a flat head screwdriver while turning with the pliers also? Beyond that, start with a small drill bit and work your way outward. Try to find some left handed drill bits if you can. I don't know how agressive I would get with a screw extractor if some red Loc-Tite holding in a pin.
BE PATIENT and good luck.
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- kdxquebec
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jason...4 months with a set of rear pads...do you mean it is a long time or a short time?
I uaslly put around 3 sets of rear pads in 1 season...I ride in the mud most of the times..they wear pretty fast.
Yes he use red locktite on the pin threads.
I think there is no room to grab with pliers on a 220 ...On my 89 the pins a flush to the casting ...
The extractors kind bits remover seems to be a good way to go.
Maybe me and I will go see at home depot or autozonne to look at this.
thanks
and btw lets go ride tomorrow lol
I uaslly put around 3 sets of rear pads in 1 season...I ride in the mud most of the times..they wear pretty fast.
Yes he use red locktite on the pin threads.
I think there is no room to grab with pliers on a 220 ...On my 89 the pins a flush to the casting ...
The extractors kind bits remover seems to be a good way to go.
Maybe me and I will go see at home depot or autozonne to look at this.
thanks
and btw lets go ride tomorrow lol
'89 KDX 198cc '03 Gasgas Ec250 '13 Husaberg Te300
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OK, that makes sense. I have unfortunately found out that they don't wear at all when you don't ride the bike.
I meant to grab the pin from the backside, not the pin head.
My bikes are stripped to the frame. I would look like a kid from the '50's on a hobbie horse if I went riding now.
Good luck!
I meant to grab the pin from the backside, not the pin head.
My bikes are stripped to the frame. I would look like a kid from the '50's on a hobbie horse if I went riding now.
Good luck!
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- kdxquebec
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The pins/bolts are steel. Find someone, a welding shop for instance and have them weld an allen wrench or something similar to the rounded bolts. New bolts would be needed but he already needs them now, right? Bet this method would work.
I hope he didn't use red loctite. I cant think of one fastener on the KDX that needs that stuff. It is wicked hard to get things loose that have that stuff on them.
I hope he didn't use red loctite. I cant think of one fastener on the KDX that needs that stuff. It is wicked hard to get things loose that have that stuff on them.
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- skipro3
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I'm voting to go with the drill-out method. since the allen is already rounded, it's a perfect pilot to line up the drill bit if you use a drill press. I did this on a steel allen in aluminum once and it worked great.
BTW, I replaced my stock pins with moose brand because they are hex head external instead of allen head internal. They don't work because the closeness of the brake caliper won't let a socket or wrench fit the hex head!!! Grrrr!!! Back to the stock allen brake pins.
ALSO, use anti seize on the brake pins and never locktite. New pads 3 or 4 times a year? Then don't worry about them comng loose with antiseize. You are wrenching on them often enough not to worry.
Good Luck!!!
BTW, I replaced my stock pins with moose brand because they are hex head external instead of allen head internal. They don't work because the closeness of the brake caliper won't let a socket or wrench fit the hex head!!! Grrrr!!! Back to the stock allen brake pins.
ALSO, use anti seize on the brake pins and never locktite. New pads 3 or 4 times a year? Then don't worry about them comng loose with antiseize. You are wrenching on them often enough not to worry.
Good Luck!!!
Jerry
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- m0rie
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When he gets them out get the Moose replacement brake pins. They are a 6mm hex head and they stick out of the caliper a bit so it makes them easier to get out in a situation like that.
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Good idea, Dave!
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- skipro3
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Morie, read my post. The moose aren't long enough on a H model KDX to finish tightening with either a socket or a wrench. I should know. Anyone wanting a pair of moose pins? (If they don't fit my KX that is)
Jerry
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skipro3, I might be interested, since I don't have a '95+ KDX. Just PM or e-mail me whenever you have checked them out on the KX.
Is your icon Nicolas Cage, the weatherman??
Thanks,
Jason
Is your icon Nicolas Cage, the weatherman??
Thanks,
Jason
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I have only seen the commercials! I wouldn't spend KDX money on Nicolas Cage!
No rush, at all, whatsoever, on the pins.
EDIT: In the commercial for the movie "The Weatherman", people stop throwing chicken at him when he is walking down the street because he starts carrying a bow, as in bow and arrow kind of bow. I mean, with a description like that, do you need to know anything else about the movie??
No rush, at all, whatsoever, on the pins.
EDIT: In the commercial for the movie "The Weatherman", people stop throwing chicken at him when he is walking down the street because he starts carrying a bow, as in bow and arrow kind of bow. I mean, with a description like that, do you need to know anything else about the movie??
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- kdxquebec
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About the hex head brake pins I just bought a set of EBC front brake pads and was surprised to see it came with a hex head pin that fits great. Heres a link http://www.rockymountainatv.com/product ... vType=type
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- canyncarvr
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re: He used red loctite..
Really? What on earth for? Guess the fact that it was used makes it a dumb question.
FTR...don't do that!!!
There are lots of different types of thread locking agents for lots of different puposes. Please do read the label (if not the spec sheet!) before using any type!!
In any case sticking the pins isn't that unusual a deal. As stated, the dissimilar metal issue is the problem. Heat makes it worse!
I have succesfully used an EZout to remove a stripped-head pin. Frankly I was surprised it worked, but it did. Choice of drill bit is important! A too-big one obviously will damage the caliper.
For next time: Put the pins in with the correct LocTite product. It is not red in color for starters. Use something that is intended to be removed with hand tools. It will be blue in color.
**edit**
I think never-seize is a better choice, though.
Oh...it's not just the color that matters!!! Some LocTite products of the same color are hugely different in application!!
Use a good wrench! In most cases (in most toolboxes) that will mean using a new wrench. Uh....they are metric!!! Don't use the wrong tool for the wrong job. Use the correctly sized wrench..one that has sharp edges...notone that has been used in the past to strip out some other head.
If you're tempted to use a cheater on an allen head fastener...rethink that action before you do it. A 12" handle on a 5-6mm allen is asking for a problem.
That said...I use a cheater on my brake pins all the time!
Good luck!
Really? What on earth for? Guess the fact that it was used makes it a dumb question.
FTR...don't do that!!!
There are lots of different types of thread locking agents for lots of different puposes. Please do read the label (if not the spec sheet!) before using any type!!
In any case sticking the pins isn't that unusual a deal. As stated, the dissimilar metal issue is the problem. Heat makes it worse!
I have succesfully used an EZout to remove a stripped-head pin. Frankly I was surprised it worked, but it did. Choice of drill bit is important! A too-big one obviously will damage the caliper.
For next time: Put the pins in with the correct LocTite product. It is not red in color for starters. Use something that is intended to be removed with hand tools. It will be blue in color.
**edit**
I think never-seize is a better choice, though.
Oh...it's not just the color that matters!!! Some LocTite products of the same color are hugely different in application!!
Use a good wrench! In most cases (in most toolboxes) that will mean using a new wrench. Uh....they are metric!!! Don't use the wrong tool for the wrong job. Use the correctly sized wrench..one that has sharp edges...notone that has been used in the past to strip out some other head.
If you're tempted to use a cheater on an allen head fastener...rethink that action before you do it. A 12" handle on a 5-6mm allen is asking for a problem.
That said...I use a cheater on my brake pins all the time!
Good luck!
Last edited by canyncarvr on 04:20 pm Nov 04 2005, edited 1 time in total.
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- canyncarvr
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What happened here?
Consider the source
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- kdxquebec
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hehe...
his two last ride was made with no rear break use.
Riding with front break only is a great aventure!
He will start work on this case soon. (he is too busy)
I will post the resut when the job will be done!
his two last ride was made with no rear break use.
Riding with front break only is a great aventure!
He will start work on this case soon. (he is too busy)
I will post the resut when the job will be done!
'89 KDX 198cc '03 Gasgas Ec250 '13 Husaberg Te300
*CANADA* LEADING THE WORLD IN BEING JUST NORTH OF THE UNITED STATES.
*CANADA* LEADING THE WORLD IN BEING JUST NORTH OF THE UNITED STATES.