KDXRIDER.NET

I don't regret my decision to sell my DR when they announced they were closing, but I sure do miss having it! Ever since then I've been trying to figure out how to make a Rekluse work on the KDX.

After a lot of hours researching and a handful of clutches from eBay, I think I'm really close.

The thing I need to pull this off is thinner than stock steel drive plates for the KDX. Revloc needed to use thinner drive plates to make the DR work for us, I believe they were 1mm /.040" thick. This leads me to a couple of questions for current Dyna Ring owners.

1. Have you had any problems with the thinner plates warping?

2. I remember that two of the steels had a machined side and had to be placed correctly against the DR. Were all the drive plates machined on one side or just those two?

3. Have you tried getting replacement friction or drive plates? If so, where did you get them from? Based on some old threads, I've contacted Slavens and Barnett with no luck. I also struck out with Rekluse. I've emailed Revloc in AU but haven't heard back.

I'm prepared to take the steels to a machine shop, but would really like to be able to buy something already the right thickness.

This is what Revloc Aus will tell you Contact Barnett directly for steels and frictions.

Regards
Ryan

That was the answer I got. Nothing will be same thickness out of the package. Barnett says they can't machine any down to that thickness either. If you need numbers on the plates I can check mine tomorrow. It is out of the bike boxed up for future use.

ecojbr - thanks for the response.

Revloc AU must not be selling too many KDX DRs if Barnett isn't supplying them with parts. Although I do wonder if there is only one person at Barnett that knows about these Revloc parts???

If you can check on the plates to see if 2 or all are machined on one side that would be appreciated.

Funny thing about Revloc Aus. The email I received back from them was from Ryan Rekluse????? Go figure. I have never tried to order from them. My steel plates measure .41 on my calipers. The friction plates measure .99 The Clutch I have out of a bike now doesn't have the same machined plates as my other one, but the numbers are the same. I also had the pressure plate and inner hub machined at the place where the plates ride against them to give me more clearance without as much cable adjustment. Been working great for a full season now. Requires little cable adjustment. Only down side to this is you wouldn't be able to slack cable and get manual clutch only again.

Any chance you remember how much you had taken off the hub and pressure plate?

.15 on one .20 on the other. You can mic them and see which one is thicker to take the .20. Revloc requires .60 of free space with engine off. That is what Alan had told me.

Sorry I can't be of more help but I haven't had any warping of the plates and I ride my bike hard. I think either you or I posted plate specs in the Dyna Ring Hell thread when we were getting them sorted out.

I found some threads with the specs. But I also found this:

makeshoes wrote:Here are my dimensions (thickness) from my Dyna Ring plates and frictions:
(6) steel plates - .055 - .057
(6) friction plates - .097 - .100 (only 1 was .097, the rest were .100)
Dyna Ring - .402 - .404

Hope this can help eliminate something for you.

So this member is saying his drive plates are OEM thickness and if I'm reading ecojbr's earlier post correctly, he has two clutches and both sets of plates measure .04", but one is machined and one isn't.

It seems there are variations in what people have received with their DR's - I wonder if that explains why some people have no problems and others have nothing but problems??? I've always thought it has to be something basic because the DR isn't a complicated device.

I have a question regarding the clutch fibers now. They are thinner than OEM. Is that due to the aluminum disc being thinner or is the disc the same thickness as OEM but the friction material is thinner?

They are both thinner to give enough room for the necessary free space without losing another set of plates. I have never tried but it might be possible to use oem plates by removing an extra set of them. Although this leads to two possible problems. 1 could be the the gap would then be to large for the DR to fill when expanded. 2 with a additional set of plates removed slippage could pose a problem.

Getting replacement parts isn't looking good then. Next week I will drop a set of steel plates off at the machine shop to see if they can cut them down. Hopefully that will be an easy solution.

I'm not sure how you would get thinner frictions for the KDX?

- - - -

Friction plates are stock OEM thickness. Alan said as much when he was still selling them. The plates and the DR itself were the only differences from stock.

I will have to remember to mic them and see. I don't remember if there was a difference

I believe the E series used the stock fibers and didn't come with fibers. The H came with fibers that were thinner. At least that is how I remember it. I do remember measuring my fibers that came with the DR and the were well below the minimum spec.

Big progress today, I was able to ride around the yard a couple of times with my hybrid clutch.

So, what combination of parts did you end up using?

kashola wrote:So, what combination of parts did you end up using?

YEAH...inquiring minds want to know. Is an EXP the only one that would work in your scenario?? I've successfully used original Z-start and Z-start pros and they might be easier to come by used at a decent price.

Really curious what yamaha basket you are using.

TN Dirtrider wrote: Is an EXP the only one that would work in your scenario?? I've successfully used original Z-start and Z-start pros and they might be easier to come by used at a decent price.

Yes. The main goal was to get an auto clutch back in my bike. But a secondary goal was to do it with as many off the shelf parts as possible.

A Z or core clutch would have been ideal (well except for the price) because it would use all the frictions. But the first hurdle would be making one of those inner hubs fit on the KDX. The shaft or spindle of the KDX isn't anywhere close to fitting any of the hubs that Rekluse offers. As with most things, you could probably throw enough money at it and find someone who could make it fit.

But then you've got the second hurdle which is that the KDX clutch operates opposite of most bikes. All the Z and core clutches are designed for bikes that use a pushrod to open the clutch pack away from the engine. Again, with enough money you might be able to "reverse" the KDX clutch action so it to opens away from the engine.

But with everything related to the clutch being a wear item, you are potentially looking at more machine shop time when/if those custom parts wear out and need to be replaced.

So there is the long answer to why I think the EXP disc is the only reasonable option.

The Dyna ring worked fine for some while others couldn't ever to get it to work properly. Even though the hybrid clutch works perfectly, you never know what might happen when I drop the EXP in there.

I was going to update my page with details once I can test it all out.

Makes sense...keep up the good work. I've got a buddy that is tight with the Rekluse folks and he has been telling them for years to make one for the KDX, but they won't do it. Too bad.... I've had a Rekluse on my last 2 bikes and loved it.