Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

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bufftester
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Re: Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by bufftester »

Looks to me like the PO may have overstated his abilities as a mechanic. that is not a 2005 KX125 upper clamp or oem 2005 fork caps on the legs. On top of that, I bet if you pull the bar clamps and those "spacer" plates off you'll find the location of the original bar clamp holes. If the lower is a 2005 OEM piece then you likely have issues with offset which would really impact steering. In my eyes that whole front end is suspect. Missing a dustcap over the steering stem. The steering stop fix is an easy one that just involves drilling and tapping the existing stops and adding a screw and spacer.
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Re: Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by Goofaroo »

Have you taken it apart to see if the steering head bearings and the forks bushings are in good shape? Indexing? Is it assembled correctly? Oil present and in good shape? Have you found any part numbers that might help you identify what you have?

As was said, if the offset is not correct then there is no need to try to get those forks tuned so that they are usable on the trail. Nice looking bike though. It would be a shame for this to tarnish your opinion of the KDX. If it had the stock fork and was properly sprung for you your opinion would be completely different. Front end swaps are possible but must be done correctly and this one may not even be in the ballpark.

How does it run?
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kawagumby
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Re: Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by kawagumby »

I'm running 2002 YZ125 forks (stock springs) on my bikes, they should be the same overall length as the KX...my bikes turn on a dime with the fork tops raised 1 -1/8" higher than the top of the triples. No problem whatsoever with cables
I'd get some bar risers and raise those forks so your geometry is back to where it should be. That bike will out-turn a KLX300 once setup properly.

I bet offset is not the issue, just fork height in the clamps. If you get a chance, put your bike up on a stand and measure the overall fork height axle to the top of the fork cap, then post it.

Someone here can then compare to forks they have to determine if they need to be raised a high probability.

Or... you can do what many of us do, and just fart around with the forks...raise them first, then go from there.
If the springs feel about right...they're probably OK, IMO. You can check full travel by putting zipties on the exposed fork slider and then run over some rough terrain, small jumps, etc. They should be about an inch to an inch and a half or so above the cast axle housing, if more than that, you may have too stiff springs or too much oil.

About that brake line....it needs to be re-routed inside the fork. You can buy a brake line bracket (as used on newer USD bikes) and pop rivet it to the fork guard to hold the brake line in place at the correct location so it will clear the wheel & spokes and be inside the fork where it won't be damaged in a fall.

Your bike should also have lots of low-end torque. Your jetting may be off.... also, if you like really slow single track, and short-shift all the time, you might want to return to the stock pipe, you can probably get one for practically nothing on ebay. The stock pipe is low-end king, but lacks in the upper rpm's.
1994 KDX200, Beta 200rr, yz125, yz250, kx100 modded for adult, gasgas contact 250.
iregret
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Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by iregret »

Well I bought the KLX.

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Don't be jealous! lol

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The first thing I did was remove this. Seriously? WTF.

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Now, I've only ridden the bike for like 20 minutes. I swore that I'd keep one bike and sell the other, but I can really see myself wanting to keep both. I've missed 4 strokes, but I love my KDX! The explosive power!! I've got nothing bad to say about the KDX.

I'm heading to eBay right now looking for taller risers. On Tuesday I'll pick up my wheels with new tires on them.

As for the KLX, I've got a list. We need to ditch that CV carb. I'm researching pumper carbs now. I'm going to do all the "free" mods and add a new head pipe. Then respring the suspension for my body weight.
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Re: Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by bcdonyo »

Congratulations, they really are fun bikes. :partyman:

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sarrant
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Re: Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by sarrant »

bufftester wrote:That is not a 2005 KX125 upper clamp
It looks to me like an aftermarket Pro Taper top clamp. Don't know if it is the correct one to match the lower clamp's offset.
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Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by MCKDX220 »

Looks like I got to this thread a bit late before you pulled the trigger. I had a KLX 300 for 15 years before finally letting 'er go. It was a really good bike after a fair amount of modifications. The biggest weakness is the neutral gear, it's pressed on bronze bushing wears out about every 3 years, if you don't replace it when it needs it, catastrophic failure. It's the gear in between kickstarter gear and the clutch hub gear. The first thing I would check is see if it is wobbly, if not, you are OK for the time being. If I started off with a new one, I would do the following and in the following order.

1) 33mm pumper carb or a dynojet kit, (pumper carb rocks btw)
2) Aftermarket muffler, pick one, anything is better than the stocker
3) Touch base with Brewster on Thumper Talk on suspension settings and modifications
4) Big bore kit, I had the 331 high compression, the true meaning of old school bottom end torque

I have a 00 KDX 220, with PC I pipe and stinger, so I am going to compare the 2, if you are going to
pick one and I am comparing this to a stock KLX, which you have acquired.

Power: KLX bottom end KDX mid range KDX top end
Suspension: KLX front end, KDX Rear End, 1 is slightly better than the other at both ends
Handling: KDX, don't know why, just is, could be the weight distribution, dunno
Ergonomics: KLX, I like the sitting in vs. the sitting on KDX
Ease of Maintenance: KDX (Valve adjustments on KLX are quite fun) :sad:
Ease of Starting: KDX hands down

If you were using the KLX as a back up bike, it is a very good fit. If it is your primary bike then be
prepared to put quite a bit of money in to it get it to the same level of performance of a KDX 200/220.
The one thing I miss about my KLX vs, the KDX, is the 4 stroke engine breaking. Once you get used to it's
points of decel you can pretty much keep your hands off of the brakes, giving you one less thing to think
about when riding. The thing I like about the KDX is it's quick acceleration.

Stock vs. stock, I would give the nod to the KDX, wished I would have started out with it back in 97 when
I purchased the KLX. Came off an XR 600 and wanted a lighter 4 stoke and the KLX fit the bill quite nicely,
however I had to spend a lot of money and time to get it to be the bike I wanted.

Just my own personal opinion.

Michael
Last edited by MCKDX220 on 01:50 am Jan 15 2014, edited 1 time in total.
87 KDX200 / 02 KTM 520 EX/C / 87 XR 200 / 90 XR 200
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Re: Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by KDXGarage »

WOW! Nice write-up. :bravo:
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net. :bravo:
To post pictures from a device: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=24128
iregret
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Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by iregret »

I love them both, but I agree, the KLX needs some help.

I've ordered a new head pipe for it. I found one off of a bike that was being parted out. It's larger than stock. I don't think it's a four stroke works head pipe, but it's bigger. I'm going to keep the stock muffler. I've read that the higher flowing muffler is mostly for upper rpms and I'm not after that.

It already has a uni filter and the air box lid is missing.

I want to convert to a pumper carb. I think this is the correct one.

Mikuni Flat Slide TM Series 4-Stroke Carburetor TM36-68
http://amzn.com/B000GZQ6HU

I found the baseline jetting from one of Brewster's posts.

I want to convert it to 1/4 turn throttle but I'm having a hard time finding all of the info. I think this is the way to go.

Motion Pro 01-0054 Vortex Gray Throttle Assembly
http://amzn.com/B000GTUX8E

I haven't been able to find what throttle cable I need though.

I've already figured out what fork springs to order from race tech. I'd like to get the pumper carb taken care of first.

It needs new tires bad! I think the front tire is the factory tire. lol

All in all, it needs about $800-1000 worth of stuff. I'll get it there.
iregret
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Re: Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by iregret »

My header arrived today.

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Here's a comparison shot.

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It fit perfectly. I was a bit worried about it. I bought it used after all.

Now I need to get the pumper carb figured out. Brewster got back to me and said the amazon carb was the wrong one. This is the correct one.

http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/001_552_su.html

Now I need to figure our what jets the carb comes with stock so I can order the correct ones.

Here's what Brewster recommends.

Main Jet 130
Pilot jet 15
Needle Jet 568-P8
Needle 9DZK6-50
Clip in middle slot
Float Height 20mm at highest point

I also emailed motion pro about a different throttle cable setup. They got back to me with this long drawn out email about how I could die without a return throttle cable.

They said I could run without one but they don't recommend it.
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Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by MCKDX220 »

If it is the original 292cc, then I would go with the TM-33. If it was a big bore, I would go with the FCR 35mm, or the Mikuni TM36.

If money is a factor, which I would not invest to much in, I would consider the dynoject kit and keep the CV 34 on there.

Header does help, but you will still have the same problem with excessive engine breaking with the stock muffler.

I.e,, you will feel the front end dive quite a bit on decel and you will "feel" how much of a load it takes off the transmission once you put on an aftermarket muffler.

Again, you have to throw quite a bit of money at it to get it to be more of a racey enduro bike. You proably would have been better to start with a 2nd, or 3rd generation WR 250F vs. the KLX, but at this point, it what it is.

Also if you stay with the stock bore, consider removing weight from the flywheel, I removed 14 oz's from mine, which was a better fit for the stock 292cc, vs big bore 331 12:1 kit I had installed. The stock flywheel is the same one from the KLX 650, which apparently was a cost cutting item Kawasaki made, we all know how Kawasaki likes to cut corners.

Michael
87 KDX200 / 02 KTM 520 EX/C / 87 XR 200 / 90 XR 200
iregret
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Re: Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by iregret »

No offense dude, but I think that's pretty terrible advice.

Who said I wanted a racy eduro bike? I don't feel the bike has excessive engine braking. After riding a KDX220 for a year, I welcome the compression braking.

I'm trying to make this bike into a technical woods bike. I want all the low end torque I can get. Maybe a 331 or 350 kit is in my future, maybe not. Either way, removing the flywheel weight is the last thing I want.

The woods in Oregon don't require the bike you're describing. At least not for me.
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Re: Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by MCKDX220 »

Iregret,

I am only sharing with you, what I did to mine and the positive effects it had on my bike.

I ride here in Northern California in the Sierra Nevada's and although I never riden in Oregon, we have a lot of technical terrain trails down here as well.

I first started off with the 33mm pumper carb (modified KLX 250 air boot) and an FMF Megamax muffler and a prototype Cycle Gear header, all of which helped the bike tremendously, especially the 33mm pumper carb. I then shaved off 14oz's off of the flywheel, which really helped on acceleration and "deceleration", or engine breaking. I.e., it accelerated quicker and decelerated quicker. I threw that out there in case you were unaware of that modification, it's your bike, you pick and choose what you think will work better for you. Again, this is the "same' exact flywheel on the KLX 650.

Again, this is my "opinion" I am sharing. I had my KLX for over 15 years and was a member of KLX Planet and the Email list, ThumperTalk, etc.. and a lot of feedback over the years of many members thoughts of their bikes. When I got mine in the 1st year, there weren't any WR250/400/426/450's, or CRF250/450X's, so I had to make the most of what I had and put ~ $1,500 in modifications into to get it where I wanted, so I have a fair amount of experience with this bike. I had a lot of good times riding 'er. It was a XR250/400 killer, but WRF, YZF, CRF, CRFX, not so much.

Any rate, the only advice I have is don't put to much into 'er and expect to get it back. The KLX 300/331 was a fun bike for me and hope it is for you.

Michael
87 KDX200 / 02 KTM 520 EX/C / 87 XR 200 / 90 XR 200
iregret
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Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by iregret »

I'm not trying to be rude. I truly appreciate your feedback. Honestly, right now the KDX220 is to much bike for me. I like to go slow and crawl over stuff. Sorta like trials stuff. Then rally through muddy woods trails that's tight in between trees.

I miss old school thumpers. Like I said, I rode a 76 tt500 for a while when I was 15. I kinda miss the torque it had.

I don't know what it is, but the KLX feels more nimble for some reason. I don't know why, but I can control it better at low speed. The KDX has massive amounts of power and I like that, but missed the low end torque a 4 stroke has. There's not nearly the clutch work required on the 4 stroke. Wheelies are easier. Lol.

I'll consider the flywheel weight, but my buddy rides a KX250 in the woods and his needs a flywheel weight bad! I don't want to turn this into a top end bike at all.

I'll probably end up with a 331 or 351 kit eventually. I paid 1400.00 for the bike. I'm okay with investing around $2500 total. That's what these typically go for around here.

I just ordered the TM36-68 carb and a few jets. I've already installed my eBay header. The air box lid is removed and it has a uni filter. I need to do the crankcase breather mod and deal with suspension.

I'm considering a new rear spring and exchanging the KDX's front fork setup. It's already resprung. For now though, I'm going to just ride it with the soft springs until I decide what to do.

It's an easy to ride forgiving bike. It's nice to have around for everyone to enjoy. Would a WR250 be better? Maybe. Would it be the same price? No.
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Re: Going from KDX220 to KLX300. I need a Kawasaki expert!

Post by MCKDX220 »

iregret,

I would follow Brewster's posts on TT and email him if you have any questions, he is the foremost expert on the KLX 300 these days and has been for some time.

I personally like the KLX better for sitting riding than the KDX, but standing, I much prefer the KDX, to me it is the most neutral & best handling bike I have ever ridden standing.

Any rate, go have fun on 'er, Happy Trails !!!

Michael
87 KDX200 / 02 KTM 520 EX/C / 87 XR 200 / 90 XR 200
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