KDXRIDER.NET

Hi all. Been slowly checking stuff out on my 89 200, gettin it trail ready for this summer. Iv got alot and I mean ALOT of things I need to fix on this thing. One problem though. I can't view pics or manuals for some reason. Think they are all expired or something. First off. I changed my water oil seal behind the impeller but I still see milky oil running out between shaft and seal. Couldn't find any pics or diagrams on how to change it so I just stuck it in with the hard side facing out. I also cand figure how to uploa my own pics. The front shocks are really soft. One of the adjustment screws? Is missing on left shock tube. Letting air ex scape. Also the kick start is real finicky. Have to push slow till it grabs then it will kick over. I can't fin any info about my bike. Would like to fix these things if anyone could help. Ill do my best to keep picks posted o my progress.

Hi,

Cant help on a 89, Ive got a 96 - but upload photos to Potobucket.com and then double click the IMG link next to the photo once uploaded and paste it into the text. (wife just tought me, now Im an expert :-)

when you took off the side cover to do the water pump seal, did you take the time to check out the kick stater? Also, use the "newer" 2 piece seals (for a 92-94) KDX. There is NOTHING in the shop manual that tells you which way the seals go in.
As far as your forks go, find someone selling forks from an H series bike and strap those on, you'll like them much more than the 89 forks, or even better, do a KX or KLX for conversion.

After installing you should be able to see the printing and little reinforcement spring on the outside. Moly grease should be used when replacing. Also the bearing should be replaced as well if you had to punch it out to replace the seal.

To upload pics, use an image host like imageshack.com and paste the .jpg link it gives you

check your water pump shaft for wear or grooving too

the kdx forks in stock trim are gonna be soft, but with the top air bleeder screw missing chances are that debris and moisture could've gone in there, making a mess. the adjuster screws are on the bottom of the forks. check your seals, oil could've just leaked out over time which could make the forks even softer. and if thats the case, your bushings inside those forks are probably shot. I agree with just doing a conversion if your forks are in that bad of shape and/or if you plan on doing any harder riding than light trail riding

Go buy another screw and o-ring, which will look like the one on the right. Air pressure builds up inside the fork as it compresses. As is, it won't be sealed.

www.kawasaki.com, owner info, parts diagrams to look at the microfiche/diagrams.



owner's manual here:

http://www.kawasaki-techinfo.net/showOM ... ng_code=EN

Hey guys thanks for the info. Ill find some different forks to put on it. I didn't remove the side cover. Just removed water pump cover and replaced outer seal. Local Honda kawasaki dealer said it took only one outer seal. The seal has springs on both sides. The shaft seemed to have a small bit of side play. Ill replace it all depending on the price. Bike is now drained of fluids and motor is almost off.. Bike runslike a bat out of hell. Only doing the water pump and side cover gaskets. Ill wait till it won't run to replace everything else.

If I'm not mistaken, that shaft is discontinued now by kawasaki though I see there are a few listed on ebay for $60-70

It's possible the shaft could have become warped in some way, stretching the passage and seals over time. When I had my brother take mine in to his shop to have a piece of the impeller bolt removed from it... when it was in the lathe, he said it was not spinning perfectly straight though wasn't too considerable in my case. Though considerable enough that he had a hard time holding the drill on it to get the piece of bolt out

I noticed something while pulling engine off last nite. On the top of cylinder next to spark plug there is E-2 stamped on it. I thought my bike was an E-1. Could it really be an e2?

You can buy the impeller, just get one for a newer year, like 94. There is no difference between the E-1 and E-2, so it doesn't matter if it is an E-2. The water pump seal is behind the bearing in the side cover, Kaw later added the second, outer seal, to help the sealing. Don't remove the small clutch cover to get to the seal, just the side cover.

Yep Im pretty sure all e-series(89-94) used the same cylinder heads....check the side of your steering column/head stock on the frame for a sticker, that's where I found the year and month my bike was made(which also happened to be the same year and month of my birthday hehe)...P.O. told me it was a '91, son of a... a 1990 would mean it's an e-2 or previous owner just swapped it in.

The second seal was added in 1991 I think...whether the second seal is compatible with an 89-90, I'm not sure but I couldn't figure out how to get it on when I did my seals last spring.

Notice here the "('91)" next to the secondary seal(92049C)

92049D is the only outer seal mine calls for. I replaced it and rode it over te weekend after tearing bike most the way apart and throwing it back together in 2 hrs. Oil not as milky but I think it's cause there was still some in the clutches that mixed with new oil.

Should be fine as long as you were using antifreeze at least I think it's not corrosive on metals...When I change the oil I tilt the bike 70 or so degrees to the left to drain the oil from the clutch compartment and give a few 2nd gear rotations

Had a little accedent yesterday. Back weak bearing finally went and chain popped off and broke a tooth of front sprocket. Oh we'll. nothing I can't fix. I found a yz250 half a block from me. It's in really good shape for 700 bucks. I'm jumpin on it.

Any side-to-side play in the rear wheel and it's a good time to change them. No damage no the case which is good.

I can recommend these bearings if you have the time to wait for shipping. Since it was near impossible to find any locally($15+ each from the dealer). I replaced mine with these pyramid parts bearings last spring and they seem like good quality.

I have moose bearings for it. I just been waiting for them to completely go out befor I changed them. Cost me 17 bucks at Honda dealer. I'm selling this bike to my cousin and buying another cheap bike. It's in way better shape then my kdx.