Rear Shock Clunk

[NewKDX]

I was adjusting the shock by using the spanner wrench and after I got my sag all dialed in the shock made a clunking noise when it decompresses to full length. This shock is new so there shouldn't be any bearings worn out. I just don't know what could have caused this the bike never did this before.

[bufftester]

Are you sure its the shock and not the linkage? If there is any play in the linkage bearings you can get a clunking sound at full extension

[Goofaroo]

What year is the bike? You say the shock is new- Is it the correct shock for the bike? Did you tighten or loosen the collars to get the preload correct? Put it on a stand and lift up on the swingarm and see if there is any slop.

[NewKDX]

Here is a video link of what is happening when the shock decompresses.

[Goofaroo]

If it wasn't doing that before you adjusted the preload you should look really closely and see if maybe the collars are hitting something although that seems unlikely. Can you not look at it and see something making contact?

[bufftester]

You said the shock is new? What bike is it off of? When you replaced it what else did you do with the linkage. It sounds like possibly the linkage is making contact with the dogbones, if you can find someone to bounce the bike for you while you get down in there to look/listen and see what's going on that would help.

[Postigo]

Looks like the blader area is hitting the frame!!! Make sure is for the H series.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

[NewKDX]

@Postigo I think your right I watched the video again and it is hitting the frame. All parts on the bike are made to fit it. How do I stop the bladder from hitting the frame?

[6 Riders]

Can that bladder be "clocked" it looks like it's sitting to far forward.

[Postigo]

@Postigo I think your right I watched the video again and it is hitting the frame. All parts on the bike are made to fit it. How do I stop the bladder from hitting the frame?

Please show some photos of the lower and upper area of the shock to see if we can identify the problem by the way your bike looks brand new.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

[bufftester]

The bladder can't be clocked its a single cast piece. Good catch on the video Postigo. It looks like you adjusted the spring nuts pretty far down, was that to get the ride height for your sag? With that much preload what does your static and rider sag look like? Generally if you have to move the adjusters that far down you need to go to a stiffer shock. May be that you have adjusted it just far enough that now it makes contact, there isn't a lot of room there to start with.

[Goofaroo]

From the video it looks like the shock doesn't have much (if any) dampening. As far as the preload adjustment, too much preload shouldn't cause the reservoir to hit the frame because the shock should only extend to the stops regardless of preload. Does the rear of the bike look higher than normal? Tell us everything you know about this shock and what has been done to it and I bet we can figure this out. My guess is that the shock has been improperly serviced and/or is simply not the correct shock for the bike.

I was adjusting the shock by using the spanner wrench and after I got my sag all dialed in the shock made a clunking noise when it decompresses to full length. This shock is new so there shouldn't be any bearings worn out. I just don't know what could have caused this the bike never did this before.

Do you have the original shock? Why was it replaced? Was the new shock longer than the original? The bike looks like it has hardly been ridden so I'm curious what happened that you had to repair or replace the original shock. From your original post, it sounds like this problem started when you swapped out the shock. Is that correct?

[bufftester]

The more I look at it the more it doesn't look like my bike before I went hybrid. There should be quite a bit of room between the frame and the reservoir (enough to get your fingers between there). Have to agree with Goof, and he's right about the stops, I was thinking out loud with my brain turned off Along the same lines, since it appears there is little dampening going on, is the reservoir charged fully with nitrogen? Should be like 140PSI worth in there. None and there would be little resistance for the oil flowing back from the shock body into the reservoir possibly allowing the seal head to strike the end cap hard enough to knock?

Now that I reread the OP you said before you adjusted it it didn't clunk. Have you tried adjusting it back and seeing what happens?

[adam728]

Grab the reservoir and pull it towards the rear of the bike. The spherical top bearing allows some degree of rotation, and like the others said, it looks like its hitting the frame.

Also, sure looks like no damping to me as well.

Sent via morse code

[ICRage42]

Had similar clunk issue was my linkage. Would not let shock up would freeze. Replaced linkage AMD bearings and shock worked great. Mine seems opposite tho of yours I had a bit of an angle away from cannistor side. Shock before would go down hard and slowly up. Linkage showed no play but had weird oblong up and down. Check bearings and bent linkage.

[NewKDX]

Just got done working on the bike the reservoir is not hitting the frame so we can scratch that off the list. The clunk is still there I am going to still keep messing with it, this is such an annoying problem I may upload more videos.

[Goofaroo]

Just got done working on the bike the reservoir is not hitting the frame so we can scratch that off the list. The clunk is still there I am going to still keep messing with it, this is such an annoying problem I may upload more videos.

Tell us the history of the shock and videos may not be needed. It looks to me like the noise could simply be the shock topping out harshly because it doesn't have any dampening so I would think that it may not even be assembled or serviced correctly. You sound frustrated but we can't help if you don't give us any info.

Do you still have the original shock? Why was it replaced? Was the new shock longer than the original? The bike looks like it has hardly been ridden so I'm curious what happened that you had to repair or replace the original shock. From your original post, it sounds like this problem started when you swapped out the shock. Is that correct?

[KarlP]

My guess is it is a linkage issue.
You can put the bike on a stand and have someone lift the rear wheel while you look around for the clunk producing slop.
You can also tip the bike against the side stand to get weight off the rear tire and see if you can feel it.
The front dog bone pivot - the part that is clamped between ears on the frame - can be tricky to get right. If you don't tighten that bolt enough to pull the ears in against the linkage inner race it will be clunky.
Keep looking, you'll find it!

[Goofaroo]

I think the shock is messed up. It has zero effectiveness and it is topping out like it has quite a bit of air in it. It most likely doesn't have a nitrogen charge either but the air is the real problem. The linkage could very well be making some noise as well but you need to pull the shock, remove the spring, and compress and extend the shock. I am guessing that it will be obvious that the shock is either broken or poorly serviced. If it's not broken and it is the correct shock for the bike you should be able to get it properly serviced for around $100.

[NewKDX]

Ok so I have been still adjusting and playing with the shock. This time it sounds different but it sounds better, should it sound like this?

I really appreciate all the help thanks guys!!!