KDXRIDER.NET

Guys,

Thanks again for your input.

The red wires from the grips are going into the black headlight wire.

The red wire from the rocker switch is going to the yellow wire that goes to the headlight switch on the bars.

I do seem to have some in-line fuse on my yellow wire coming from the headlight switch. Here is a picture:



As I said, the lights no longer dim when I turn them on. I did not bother to ride the bike to see if the grips heat up. I figure if the lights don't dim then the heaters must not be working.

I will pull out the multi meter as soon as I get a chance. (Maybe tonight) Never used one before................but I will give it a shot.

Thanks for any input on this.

I look forward to warm hands!

That is not a fuse, it's a "quick disconnect" plug, that is where the wire separates.

Yep, not a fuse. The red wire going to the yellow one appears to have a big bare spot. I hope that's not bare wire just rubbing up against the head tube! I have been contemplating putting heaters on my hybrid (rewound stator and KDX wiring). May have to try this weekend if I can get a hold of a set. Shouldn't be too hard with snowmobile season approaching.

I just rewound my stator and now my throttle side get hot 5 mins of idle and a couple more minutes for the clutch side. About 4 times better than before . If this rain will stop I can get out and see how they work riding. I imagine I may be able to use the low setting now.

Good to hear you got them working, the stock stator is pretty weak, the rewind really helps a lot.

Bufftester mine always worked, just took forever to get hot. Fatherof2 is the one that was having trouble.

Hi Gang,

Thanks for everyones help with my grip heaters. Finally got it sorted out. They work great! Almost too good. When I am on the gas hard I can really feel the heat surge through the grips.

I bought a set of Mitts for 20 bucks in case I had issue with the hand warmers. Well between the heaters and the Mitts, I thought I was going to melt the grips right off the bike!

I went for a ride on Saturday. It was 9 degrees outside. I had to turn the grip warmers off after about 20 minutes on the low setting.

There was about 2 inches of snow on the ground, and we got another 8 inches that day. Here is a picture from the ride:



I always wear my chest protector and Leatt, but it was so cold that I had to pull out the heavy jacket to stay warm. I cant fit the gear under it. Something I dont like to do, but its not usually 9 degrees when I go riding.



I do have another question. I need to mount the rocker switch for the heaters. I plan to mount it on the headlight mask. The directions call for a 3/4 inch hole. Can I drill it with this?



One more thing...............I was getting a fair amount of wheel spin. The studs were not hooking up the way I was expecting. With the ground frozen solid, and 2 inches of old snow frozen on top, I was expecting great traction. However, everytime I really hit the gas, the rear would break loose. I dont remember that happening last winter. I never rode in 9 degree weather before either. Maybe the ground was just too hard? Anyway, here is a picture of my rear tire. It is worn, but the majority of the studs are still there. Thoughts? Time for a new back tire?



Thanks again everyone. Get out and ride this winter. Its a whole different game. Really fun! Makes the winter so much better here in New England!

'of2
Glad to hear that you have solved the grip heater issue. I am aware of 3 methods of studding a tire,
1) molded in during manufacturing, Trellebourgs used to be like this. I don't know if they are still manufactured this way.
-Mitas http://www.amazon.com/Mitas-Trelleborg- ... eborg+tire
2) screwed in from the outside, such as:
-gripstuds http://www.gripstuds.com/
-kold kutters https://koldkutter.com/catalog/products ... 63cde1e55e),
3) screwed from inside out. This is customized with snowmobile studs or DIY with fasteners. This method makes it darn near impossible to loose a stud. I am running and old set of tires that I picked up from a dealer for free. The rear is a 90/110 and studded with 1-1/4" tapcons with 1/4x20 jam nuts. I have used this method and usually get about a good season of riding out of the rear before replacement.


and a non snowy view of KDXRider.net member "gregp" tire


These work great, but if you are running hard on really frozen ground, like a winter hare-scramble, you can wear a set of in a couple/three races. These are a very economical way to go. Have fun deciding!

Sthutch,

Those tires look great!!

Do you feel that they are more durable than Trelleborg/Dunlops?

Do you need a liner for the tube?

Thank you.

I used an old tube split in half for a liner, with baby powder to keep them from sticking. I never have had a flat. When I change them in the spring I have seen where the pan-head tap-cons have rubbed on the liner in spots. I think those are from when I have hit the odd log or other edged object. These studs will wear out, but just unscrew the jam-nut and back the screw out and replace. It takes about 2-3 hours to drill the holes and then install the screws on a tire. I used a drill that allowed me to set the torque so I didn't strip the threads on the tap-cons when putting the jam-nuts on.

Don't forget to add a couple of links to your chain or you will rip your mudflap off and chew up the swing arm!

I have never tried the Telleborgs, so I can't comment on that. I chose this method because it was the most cost effective for me. I do miss the traction come spring!