'92 KDX 200 re-build engine - winter project

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KanuckKDX
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'92 KDX 200 re-build engine - winter project

Post by KanuckKDX »

Just got home from the last weekend of riding until May - now I have to work to pay the bills.

The KDX is going to come apart right to the bottom - there's a terrible howl in the bottom that must be fixed.

For sure we'll fix the following:
- routine grease and lube everywhere, check all bearings, oil, air filter, etc.
- clutch basket may have notches
- kick start lever is tricky to engage; it takes finesse or it slips without engaging
- choke won't stay on
- weld leaky muffler
- rings
- clean carb
- reeds if needed
- plastic repair/replace
- the dreaded bottom end howl


I need to know what extra I should do simply because I have it apart and it's the time to do it. When I am done I still want the bullet proof workhorse that pulls hard right from the bottom to the top. I have aftermarket pipe and silencer.

Beginners ride my bike since it's light, responsive, yet doesn't rip out of their hands if they give the throttle the death grip. I don't want to create a power monster yet more bottom end grunt would help since they generally don't clutch well on steep tricky hills.

I think first gear should be slowed down - should I change the front or the rear sprocket?

So if it was yours, what would you do? I am not looking to spend money, just to do it right the first time. So don't dream - pretend it's your nickel.
KanuckKDX
'01 YZ426F son's
'02 XR400 still for sale
'04 KTM 450exc it's all about the e-start
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m0rie
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Post by m0rie »

A 12T front would be a good cheap way to tighten up the gearing and lower 1st. I'd also look at geting some springs for the front to help balance out the suspension of the bike. Make sure the complete exhaust track is sealed. Silicone the pipe to cylinder junction and a dab of silicone on the pipe to silencer junction.

-Maurice
1989 KDX 200
2007 TTR-50E
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Post by m0rie »

I'm also assuming a top end cleaning is in order? The KIPS gears on the E series KDX's have a tendency to strip themselves out if they bind up from carbon buildup. Replacement needles for the carb can also change the power delivery for very little $$$.
1989 KDX 200
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Post by KanuckKDX »

Top end cleaning is now on the list and KIPS will get a careful cleaning. Besides, I want to know what is inside that KIPS thing.

I will talk to my local guru about needles. The only carb I have played with had a jet needle. Is that the thing? Where should I go to read about needles and the effect of the various options? That seems like a relativley cheap way to expereiment to see what I like.

The springs are .35 now. I have XR400 springs at .40 but they are quite different and I don't know how to know if they will work.???

He said sometihng about polishing or somehitng too when he's got the engine all apart but it's all just Greek to me.

Thanks.

Tedd
KanuckKDX
'01 YZ426F son's
'02 XR400 still for sale
'04 KTM 450exc it's all about the e-start
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Post by KDXGarage »

I would replace every bushing, bearing, seal and pin in the bottom end (inside the cases). Check for side clearance on the crankshaft and rebuild if necessary.

On my KDX250...

On the choke lever, I asked the same thing a couple of weeks ago. I took mine out and it seems to be worn. Buy a new one for $20.

My kickstarter is the same way. The ratchet gear and spur gear have worn teeth faces. I suggest yu chekc those.
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Post by m0rie »

>|<>QBB<
Jason wrote:On the choke lever, I asked the same thing a couple of weeks ago. I took mine out and it seems to be worn. Buy a new one for $20.
Or spend nothing and wrap a piece of wire around the choke boot to provide a little more bite on the choke shaft.
1989 KDX 200
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KanuckKDX
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Post by KanuckKDX »

m0rie wrote:>|<>QBB<
Jason wrote:On the choke lever, I asked the same thing a couple of weeks ago. I took mine out and it seems to be worn. Buy a new one for $20.
Or spend nothing and wrap a piece of wire around the choke boot to provide a little more bite on the choke shaft.
I saw how a few guys figured out how to tighten the choke. I will try that first.
We'll replace lots in the bottom end I am sure. $$$

We'll "port and polish". That's for you who know what that is. I don't but he tells me we're going to do it.

I figure the kick starter problem will be pretty obvious once I look at it. More $$$. Will I change both the ratchet and the spur?

My stock headlight and totally cool LED taillight are both out. I know the bike had some serious blows this weekend (the front fender is pretty well finished). I figure to start at the switch and work my way back to the power source (which I have never yet seen - is that a stator?) unless there is a smarter way to trace the problem???
Thanks.
And when this one is done, we'll do the routine maintenance on the XR400. But all you 2-smokers know how much maintenance the thumpers take, so I won't be whining here. Fortunately we have many cold months of snow to fill with bike repair. I don't think you two get real winter!
KanuckKDX
'01 YZ426F son's
'02 XR400 still for sale
'04 KTM 450exc it's all about the e-start
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Post by m0rie »

Like you said just work your way back from the switch to the stator under the left hand side engine/flywheel cover. I didn't think XR400's were all that bad in the maintenance department?
1989 KDX 200
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Post by KanuckKDX »

The XR4 is not bad, but it's no KDX. Valves need attention, and there are rings to do as well. Of course the KDX needs rings regularly.
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'04 KTM 450exc it's all about the e-start
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Post by KDXGarage »

If you are wanting to keep it as a smooth, beginer friendly bike, then the porting work makes me wonder.

No way to know on the kickstarter until you get it apart. It was easy to tell on mine.

No, thankfully, I don't get a real winter. :supz:
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