Then it seems height is not the problem at all, right?Dragondude wrote:Yet I feel more confident on a YZ 250. Plus the fact that the 125's/250's have adjustable forks and shocks but the KDX only has a compression clicker on the on the shock.sarrant wrote:KX and YZ 125s are both actually a good deal taller (and stiffer) than a KDX.
98 KDX Lowering Link
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Re: 98 KDX Lowering Link
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Re: 98 KDX Lowering Link
Check sag as mentioned. If you can't get sag right because you're too light (likely) then you need a different rear spring. This may get you the 1" you need.
'91 KDX 200 Project $300 KDX
'95 KDX 200 Project $600 KDX
'94 WR 250 Always a project
'95 KDX 200 Project $600 KDX
'94 WR 250 Always a project
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Re: 98 KDX Lowering Link
Dragondude wrote:I'm probably just complaining to much lol I just want the confidence I had on my KLX with this bike. I probably should just, as my dad would say " Suck it up buttercup" and ride.
I agree with your dad. Just suck it up, if you're riding on fast trails. Because most of the time, you don't need to put your foot down.
But if you're riding in tight, nasty, single track, where dabbing here and there could save your life. Like on a mountain trail where one side is the mountain and the other side is a 100' drop. Here's a cheap solution. You can install a Kubo link ($75) while you learn how to ride on gnarly stuff. You won't be going fast enough at this stage of your skill development, to worry about the bad effect of Kubo link.
Once you start to ride faster on the gnarly stuff, you can remove the Kubo link and reinstall the stock link. With the stock link, you can go as fast as possible and don't have to worry about bad handling or bottoming out the suspension. And by this time, you'll have the skill to ride without needing to dab.
2001 KDX220