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I've got just under 800 miles on my top end job now----wherein I installed the Wiseco Piston to replace the OEM on the used 2005 Model that I purchased a year ago.
I took a run through the nearby mountains (6000--10,300 elevation) yesterday---not riding hard and just enjoying the cool mountain air and smelling the fresh pine scent. Upon my return I notd that the GPS had clocked 75 mles at an average moving speed of 25 miles per hour. I refilled the gas tank taking 1 & 1/2 gallons of premix-----?????? What?????? 50 MPG ?????? Is this typical of this bike???? Hard for me to believe it is that fuel efficient? What say you?

Mine with highway gearing get about 35 MPG cruising around Texas dirtroad. Mine is jetted rich for longevity. And we have nothing but crappy enthano gas here.

I usually see around 30-40 mpg at race speeds, I suppose putting around you could get better, but surprised it's that much.

its doesn't take a whole lot of gas to travel from a 10300 feet elevation down to 6000 feet

lol true....big enough hill and it takes 0 gas

When giving it everything I had in the ST, seldom getting out of third, I'd go 22 miles in 1:15 and burn right at 1 gallon.
Cruising on the jeep roads it seems I could go twice as far.

Following that 75 mile ride I noted that there was oil all over the right side of my back tire----so much that it was being thrown up onto the back of my jacket----Obviously, it was time to clean the Pro Circuit Platinum 2 pipe and FMF Turbine core muffler which had become saturated with beanoil which I mix at 32:1. Sure enough the fiberglass blanket in the FMF was pretty much full of oil---at least on the bottom of the first layer. About 30 percent of the holes in the tube were also plugged solid. I used a pressure washer to blow them open and restore that tube to like new condition. Then I re-packed the muffler using 8 Scotch Bright Copper coated scouring pads. I threw away the oil soaked fiberglass. Make little donuts out of these by sticking your finger into the center of them and uncoiling the wrap so that you can slide them over the holey tube and pack them close together. (You can also find these in stainless steel----and I've used them in SS form before with great success on a WR-250 but this time around I couldn't get them in SS so I used the copper ones). I did not alter the 'turbine setup but only washed it with the power washer. The copper pads are stacked in there tightly but probably allow more exhaust to flow through than did the oil soaked fiberglass blanket.

Now the bike feels different than before----I can't quite decide why---but it seems now to be always "on the pipe"---it starts pulling right from zero rpm and continues pulling hard through the mid range---maybe without the 'hit' that it had before but it responds more linearly to the throttle position---and I think it is as strong as ever---maybe stronger than it was before.

When I get a chance I'll do another milage run and see what the results will be this time.

Not a surprise its running better. Lots of folks don't seem to understand the huge role the exhaust track plays in proper engine operation. Unclogging the pipe alters the exhaust pressure wave. Also not surprising that you had so much splooge, bean oil is just dirtier but I hear it smells good! (Higher flash and burn points than synthetic). Your KIPS could probably stand a cleaning as well. Glad to hear it's running so well

bufftester wrote:Not a surprise its running better. Lots of folks don't seem to understand the huge role the exhaust track plays in proper engine operation. Unclogging the pipe alters the exhaust pressure wave. Also not surprising that you had so much splooge, bean oil is just dirtier but I hear it smells good! (Higher flash and burn points than synthetic). Your KIPS could probably stand a cleaning as well. Glad to hear it's running so well

It does smell 'different' but because it doesn't seem to burn it must be lubricating---or so I was thinking. Now, I am rethinking that scenario. All the lubrication that I need is happening before the piston fires--so once that happens the bean oil is expelled into the exhaust pipe where it becomes a problem. It follows then that if I can get a great lubricating oil that burns cleanly during the combustion cycle then that oil would be a better choice. So what do you guys use? The bean oil didn't seem to foul my plugs---which was a problem I had using some other two stroke oils in my WR 250-----Now, I am all ears? Who makes a good lubricating two stroke oil that doesn't foul plugs and which burns away during combustion?

well it won't all burn away during combustion, and you don't really want it too. The trick is getting the jetting and mix dialed together to minimize the splooge while still protecting the motor. Splooge is a part of 2 stroke life (like death and taxes) but can be regulated. This thread is the most recent incarnation of the "what oil is best/cleanest/etc" question http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=14449. Basically whatever you choose , jet to that, and don't deviate for the best results. Most on here run 40:1 synthetics it seems. If 32:1 works for you and you're jetted to it I'd just keep riding and remember to repack the silencer a couple times a year