Handlebar replacement

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Re: Handlebar replacement

Postby terminatr » 02:44 pm Aug 19 2013

Goofaroo wrote: The steel bars can bend even in just a minor tip-over as you seem to have found out. The aluminum bars are much more durable and capable of surviving some pretty large impacts. A set of aluminum hand guards will also add some strength.


I thought you want the bars to bend, to absorb some of the energy of the impact.

Btw, I have always used cheap steel bars, and I never bend 'em. Not sure why, but I crash all the time. Haha
2001 KDX220
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Re: Handlebar replacement

Postby Thrahl » 06:00 pm Aug 19 2013

terminatr wrote:
Goofaroo wrote: The steel bars can bend even in just a minor tip-over as you seem to have found out. The aluminum bars are much more durable and capable of surviving some pretty large impacts. A set of aluminum hand guards will also add some strength.


I thought you want the bars to bend, to absorb some of the energy of the impact.

Btw, I have always used cheap steel bars, and I never bend 'em. Not sure why, but I crash all the time. Haha

I agree with you here. A lot of people think the stronger the bar the better but I'd much rather bend a cheapo pair of $20 steel bars than break my bar mounts or triple tree.
I also have fallen countless times on steel bars with no issues so I wouldn't say they are easy to bend, just easier I guess.
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Re: Handlebar replacement

Postby rsr02 » 09:02 pm Aug 19 2013

terminatr wrote:
rbates9 wrote:I would never consider using the aluminum cones in place of the rubber. They are there for a reason. They reduce vibration and give flex to the bars in a crash.


+1.

My KLX-300 has solid mounts, and it twists the fork everytime the bike lay on the ground.

My KDX has never twisted the fork, and I crash it all the time. Rubber cones work!



With my stock front end the bars and the forks would twist, with the klx front end I haven't had any problems. :hmm:
1997 220, KLX forks-pipe-reeds-trials tire
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Handlebar replacement

Postby rbates9 » 09:15 pm Aug 19 2013

With the stock KDX front end and Renthal bars I bent a few bars but never twisted the forks. When I switched to the KX front end with cone mounted bars I bent a pair of bars and haven't twisted the forks.

If you had problems with twisting the forks before you probably didn't have them tight enough.
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Handlebar replacement

Postby 2 Wheels » 10:37 pm Aug 20 2013

I ordered a set of Cones from Scott's. After learning more from this thread about handlebars etc, I checked out my original cones and from what I can see of them they are dry rotted.
So I figured I would make a little project and replace them. The set was only $20-25.
This looks like a pretty straight forward swap. Is there anything tricky I should know about? Any tips I might need?
Thanks alot.
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Handlebar replacement

Postby Leo » 06:33 am Aug 22 2013

replaced bars i was going to go renthal cr hi a familiar friend ,checked out options even enduro hi bars renthal BUT went for a compromise"the KDX Jimmy Button bars Renthal" and I am really stoked no riser dramas stand up riding is good as it gets , control & comfort ,KDX digs em great bars hybrid hi MX / Enduro. Risers can come with them but at 5ft 10" no need for me. :hmm:
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Handlebar replacement

Postby jeeptech1 » 11:38 pm Aug 22 2013

Well since the beginning of this thread I have made the switch to 1 1/8 bars. Got some extra cash so decided I'd give em a try. I went with pro taper contours in the cr hi bend (same as I was running before, really wanted the woods high but the local shop only had cr hi in stock. There really isn't much of a difference between the two). I got the rubber bar adaptors as opposed to the 7/8 to 1 1/8 adaptor. Really didn't want to raise the bars any higher and the rubber pro taper mounts are much beefier than stock, that and they are the same price. I like the look a lot. I've only got one ride and really can't feel a difference between my old 7/8 pro tapers. I'm sure they are stronger than the 7/8(though I hope to not find out).
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Re: Handlebar replacement

Postby KDXohio » 11:47 pm Aug 22 2013

The 1-1/8 do have a good look
1990 KDX200 FMF Fatty, Answer VFC silencer, Boysen rad valve, Wiseco Piston, KX125-J series KYB USD fork conversion, J series front brake assembly, air-box snorkel removed, Acerbis Headlight, KX450F Front fender, Pro Taper RM bend bars, ASV front Brake lever, MSR Clutch perch and lever, RB Head mod, 36mm PWK carb, Trail Tech Kickstand.
1983 Yamaha IT490 - Tag bars, .40kg fork springs, DG silencer, Decompression Valve, YZ Aluminum Kicker
1982 Yamaha IT175
1998 RM250 - 12oz FWW, full FmF exhst
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Handlebar replacement

Postby 2 Wheels » 01:04 pm Aug 27 2013

Got my new Scott hard rubber cones in. It was a 30 minute job. The old cones were not dry rotted. They were fine. They just looked bad from the little bit that was exposed.
Anyways quick plug: The Scott cones fit perfect. they came with rubber bushings that go between the top and bottom cones. I thought they were too long(the bushings) but everything buttoned up and compressed down nicely. Perfectly even top and bottom, very snug.
I did away with the top and bottom cap covers. The Scott cones come form fitted with built in washers. The hole kit was 20 bucks.
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