Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

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Actionman
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Re: Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by Actionman »

Yep I cleaned it since it last got wet. I use klotz brand spray on filter oil. I now think my kips isn't working, so I've got bigger problems than the carb. If its not working and the bike has this much power I'd hate to see it working.
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Re: Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by Actionman »

I know I sound dumb, but I'm wondering if I'm simply just overreving the bike instead of it actually bogging? I did a series of tests today and the bike seems crisp as heck; its geared two teeth lower and I think I might just be hitting the rpm wall and confusing that with a carb problem. It's been so long since I've ridden I can't be sure! I know one thing: when this bike gets in the upper range it revs forever! I don't remember ever riding a dirt bike that didn't seem to have a limit to revving on the top end like this one. Is that to be expected from a "h model" Kdx?
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KDXohio
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Re: Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by KDXohio »

Does the engine actually stumble, bog, spit, cough.....or does it just top out and you have to shift? If it runs great and the power curves off at it just stops reving likely its the rpm limit every engine stops spinning faster at some point
1990 KDX200 FMF Fatty, Answer VFC silencer, VForce 3 Cage, Wiseco Piston, KX125-J series KYB USD fork conversion, Race tech goldvalves, J series front brake assembly, air-box snorkel removed, Acerbis Headlight, KX450F Front fender, Pro Taper RM bend bars, ASV front Brake lever, MSR Clutch perch and lever, RB Head mod, 36mm PWK carb, Trail Tech Kickstand.
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Re: Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by KDXohio »

I have an 11 tooth front sprocket I throw on my bike when I'm running really technical trails with some big hills mostly when I'm riding in PA Lots of big rocky hills out there. :mrgreen: But back to the point that shift point is significantly sooner when you gear down so it's possible your just not used to how quickly it gets there.
1990 KDX200 FMF Fatty, Answer VFC silencer, VForce 3 Cage, Wiseco Piston, KX125-J series KYB USD fork conversion, Race tech goldvalves, J series front brake assembly, air-box snorkel removed, Acerbis Headlight, KX450F Front fender, Pro Taper RM bend bars, ASV front Brake lever, MSR Clutch perch and lever, RB Head mod, 36mm PWK carb, Trail Tech Kickstand.
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Re: Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by Actionman »

I'm going to test some more today, but honestly the "bog" I've been noticing is starting to feel like a stumble a bike gets when It hits its redline. I wonder if Its truly this because third gear up it pulls like a jet. It really only seems to "stumble" in 1st and 2nd right at the point it needs to be shifted anyway. I suddenly noticed today that if I shift right before the "stumble" point it runs like a scalded dog and seems jetted spot on. It might be geared so low now that its just redlining real quick, like you said. It's just been sooooo long since I've ridden that the 2-stroke characteristics are new to me again. Ill post more tomorrow if I figure it out.
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Re: Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by rsr02 »

When I got my bike, it had a 13T on it. Was great for tight stuff, but felt like it fell on its face every time you opened it up. Just reved out to quick.
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Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by Actionman »

did a lot of riding today, and its more of a popping and sputtering than an actual bog-and only in the first two gears. if I roll on the throttle in third, it doesn't pop and picks up fine. In first and second, if I roll on the throttle slowly, it also picks up fine-with the occasional stutter and pop. If I slam the throttle open instead of rolling it on it stumbles pops and then picks up. anyone have suggestions of where I need to go now? Too lean somewhere?
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Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by Actionman »

Nope-its definitely too rich on the bottom end, from zero to 1/8 throttle. I put the needle back in the middle clip and its worse than with the needle in the top notch. I can still smell an unburnt gas smell as well, so its back to adjusting floats. I may drop down another pilot(currently 42) if its too rich after that, but it is too rich as of now. Runs the same with airscrew out from 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turn out; this may mean something but Im not sure.
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Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by Actionman »

One final question: I put a 38 pilot in it today and it still has the feeling of being a little rich on the bottom! I can hold 1/8 throttle in idle and hear it running rich in the exhaust . My needle is stock in the middle clip, and 160 main jet, no airbox lid with 2 1/2 turns airscrew. Do I need to lean out that main jet as well? It seems to pull a little better on top with the 160 as opposed to the 158, and the 155 was too lean because at full throttle it didn't pull as good as when I backed the throttle off a notch? Am I running too lean on the bottom instead of rich? Is there a point that the symptoms are the same? Bone stock jetting I had the airscrew only 1/2 turn out- according to indawoods jetting guide that would mean my pilot was too lean to begin with; I'm thoroughly confused now! It seems drastic to go from a 48 pilot to a 38 and still he too rich doesn't it? Surely they didn't jet these bikes that rich, did they? Should I install the airbox lid and try a certain combo of jets? Arghhhhhh! * ties bed sheet around neck*
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Re: Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by Postigo »

48 to 38 pj is a huge jump! Try to drop the needle to the first top position and put a 40 or 42 pj. Looks like you ride in a dry and cool environment if you run with a 160 main jet. I have a kdx220 and my set up is 38/142 with the needle in the first top position and my bike runs strong and very crisp but I'm riding in Puerto Rico and the temperature here is like 90 deg at almost sea level with hight humidity.
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Re: Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by Actionman »

Problem solved! I was following indawoods jetting guide(or so I thought) but i was making one big mistake: I had my idle set too high when adjusting my airscrew. I set it to BARELY idle today, and at 1 3/4 turns out it got a LOT more crisp with the tiniest amount of stumble. I couldn't get rid of that slight, slight bottom richness, so as a goof I put on the airbox lid- and it got rid of the remaining stumble! Now it's crisp as heck, and I might even be able to step up to a 40 pilot. My needle is middle clip and I still have a 160 main, but I feel like I have it under control now! Important to anybody using the jetting guide: when it says to set your idle screw to the lowest idle you can get away with, that absolutely means the lowest you can get away with! I've been chasing a jetting ghost for two weeks and all it took was patience and an extra turn of the airscrew! Thanks to all that tried to help me! This thing is razor sharp now!
Last edited by Actionman on 04:08 pm Jul 19 2013, edited 6 times in total.
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Re: Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by bufftester »

If we had a dollar for everytime we suggested following the jetting guide to the letter....well....Julien could buy his trailer :grin: Glad you got it sorted!
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Re: Kdx200 low end bogging has returned:(

Post by Actionman »

Sadly, I though I WAS following it to the letter, and that was where it was becoming such a mystery. Just one more turn out on the idle screw was all I needed. My bike SOUNDED like it was going to die, and previously, i wouldve turned the screw back IN to keep it from dying, but today instead of panicking and turning the screw in, I simply let it go and it kept running. I wasn't giving the engine time to adjust to my airscrew settings; That's why I'm advocating a patient approach , and not getting frustrated like I was. Listen to the guide-and mind that air screw! Lol.
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