Engine Seized After Wash

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Thrahl
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Re: Engine Seized After Wash

Post by Thrahl »

Alternatively, for the case splitter you can rent a harmonic balancer puller from Autozone or wherever and buy some really long bolts from the hardware store. That plus some small pieces of thick metal and it is basically as good as the real thing. I think a steering wheel puller works similarly too.
I used a heat gun very carefully on the bearing (don't want to melt the seal behind it) and stuck the crank in the freezer then wrapped it in dry ice. Slid in like butter.
usagi
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Engine Seized After Wash

Post by usagi »

What about removing the bearings? Do I need to spend the $90 on a slide hammer?
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bufftester
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Re: Engine Seized After Wash

Post by bufftester »

I have a flywheel puller I'd be happy to loan to you, I'll even pay the shipping as long as you send it back when you finish. Splitting the cases is not as difficult as it sounds. Do make sure you have access to a manual though, will help immeasurably.
usagi
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Re: Engine Seized After Wash

Post by usagi »

bufftester wrote:I have a flywheel puller I'd be happy to loan to you, I'll even pay the shipping as long as you send it back when you finish. Splitting the cases is not as difficult as it sounds. Do make sure you have access to a manual though, will help immeasurably.
That is an extremely generous offer, but I can't, in good conscience, let you pay to loan me a tool. Shipping might even cost us more than the tool itself. Thank you for the offer, though. I do have the cyclepedia manual. I am curious whether to pull the trigger on buying the Tusk bearing remover (slide-hammer) w/colletts, though. What are the alternatives for removing bearings? Hammer and socket?
40ozthreat
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Re: Engine Seized After Wash

Post by 40ozthreat »

A method that I use is to place the case on an electric stove for a couple minutes. Next I place the case bearing side down and tap with a rubber mallet, which will get out bearings that you don't have access to because there is no through hole. The bearings generally fall right out. This assumes that you are replacing your seals. This also works for reinstallation of the bearings, but put the bearings in a freezer.

An alternate approach is to pack behind the bearing with grease. Then use a tight fitting extension with electrical tape wrapped around the end to fit tight and tap the end of the extension. This forces the grease outward with the bearing with it. This is technique is used for pilot bearings on car clutches and probably makes more sense viewing a video on you tube.

I have never used a bearing puller myself. I generally use method 1, if that doesnt work you can assist with prying the bearing out. The hardest part of splitting cases is bearing removal, but if you purchase all of the bearings than you can use our good pal heat.
usagi
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Engine Seized After Wash

Post by usagi »

UPDATE:

Finally got all of the tools/parts in, and the time, to split the cases. I figured there would a sheered tooth off of a gear in there, and assumed I'd be ordering more parts once I had it apart. I got to the point of pulling the flywheel and found THIS! :shock: :

Image

I noticed my headlight stopped working about 5 rides before the bike quit. Though I assumed the switch had gone out, as it was cracked from a get-off. How in the flying $#@& has this thing been running at all with the stator flinging around in there? This is an upgraded stator that I had put in by a mechanic while he was doing my top end. You can see a mangled screw in the bottom left of the picture. I will be calling and having words with that gentleman. So, good news is that it seems that I won't need to split the cases after all. The seal looks to be in fine order. I will have to do without a headlight, of course, until I can order a new stator.
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diymirage
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Re: Engine Seized After Wash

Post by diymirage »

well that's an interesting development

here is one for a good price
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KDX200-KAWASAKI ... 14&vxp=mtr

hopefully this will get you on the road quickly again
its too bad the person who installed the high output stator failed to use locktite when installing it but I doubt he will be willing to eat the cost of it

on the bright side, if you feel up to rewinding the stator yourself I got a coil or wire you could use, just let me know where to send it
newbbewb wrote:DIYmirage has it right.


-1996 KDX 200 woods weapon (converted to 99 green body)
-1996 KDX 200 plated street toy (barney edition)
-2003 Yamaha TTR125-L (wifeys bike)
-1997 KDX 220 project bike
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K50X200
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Re: Engine Seized After Wash

Post by K50X200 »

diymirage wrote:well that's an interesting development

here is one for a good price
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KDX200-KAWASAKI ... 14&vxp=mtr

hopefully this will get you on the road quickly again
its too bad the person who installed the high output stator failed to use locktite when installing it but I doubt he will be willing to eat the cost of it

on the bright side, if you feel up to rewinding the stator yourself I got a coil or wire you could use, just let me know where to send it
Rewind it yourself...
It'll take you about an hour & save you about $47 :grin:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnet-Wire-18- ... 27c910da1c
You'll only save $38 dollars if you don't have a soldering iron :lol:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-W-with-Heavy ... 2a265c3cfa
That is if it's not trashed beyond use!
Forum how-to...
http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=10226
"00 KDX200 - Baja Designs D/S Kit, '03 KLX300 Forks, KB5 Suspension Mods, Keihn 35 ASQV, Boyesen Rad Valve, Gnarly Woods Pipe
Roadhazardguy
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Re: Engine Seized After Wash

Post by Roadhazardguy »

Ouch, that looks nasty in there! But its not all that bad, at least its not the bottom end.
Tony
1988 KDX 200
1980 KD 80
1989 ATK 406
1984 RM 500
1980 KZ 1300
2008 SM450R
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