Revloc clutch issues

[SS109]

First, you have to make sure they use the same size as the E-series Dyna-Ring. Hopefully someone else here can chime in on what size they are but I suspect they are probably the same size as what the E-series uses, 1/4" or .25". I supplied the part number for them in my earlier post. If they happen to be smaller or larger than 1/4", Rekluse does have sizes smaller and bigger. Just tell them what size you need, that you want tungsten carbide, and how many you want. It really is that simple.

[iregret]

Awesome. Thank you.
On my next day off I'll take the dynaring apart and measure its balls.


LOL

[iregret]

First, you have to make sure they use the same size as the E-series Dyna-Ring. Hopefully someone else here can chime in on what size they are but I suspect they are probably the same size as what the E-series uses, 1/4" or .25". I supplied the part number for them in my earlier post. If they happen to be smaller or larger than 1/4", Rekluse does have sizes smaller and bigger. Just tell them what size you need, that you want tungsten carbide, and how many you want. It really is that simple.

In an earlier post, you gave me part number 432-308.

I looked it up, and those are not 1/4" they are 5/16.

Here:
http://rekluse.com/PartsFiche/zSP/RMS-139A.pdf

Also, I got another email back from they guy.

what I think is you have a case of premature opening. Check the springs in the dyna ring and replace them I have seen most people run two in these but you might wanna try 3. You can manipulate the opening of the dr with your fingers. I think that the slippage is due to gap to big. You can check the gap by having bike in gear and revving with clutch fully pulled I wiould expect tb e bike to want to drive.

I replied with:

My bike is doing exactly that. I pull the clutch in all the way, rev up and the bike slowly moves forward.
My bike is at my parents place. I'll stop by later tonight at take a look at the springs. Do the have a spec? How many springs are in there?

His reply:

there is place for up to 6 springs they are small wave springs behind a torx bolt. You can have 2, 3, 4 or 6. The more you have the more you have to rev to go. Most people favor 2 on their kdx.

So I got to my parents house and took apart the dynaring.



I have 3 wave springs.





So when you bought tungsten balls, you replaced one per set?



I also measured my steel plates. They are within spec.



Like I said earlier, I ordered replacement clutch springs. The 10% stiffer ones. That should solve my slipping under full throttle issue.

I'm going to order replacement wave lock springs. I currently have 3, I think I'm going to install 6. I'm hoping this will resolve me not being able to disengage the clutch at idle.

Since my friction and steel plates are within spec, I don't think I'll order replacements. I mean, how often do wet clutches wear out?

[SS109]

In an earlier post, you gave me part number 432-308.

I looked it up, and those are not 1/4" they are 5/16.

Here:
http://rekluse.com/PartsFiche/zSP/RMS-139A.pdf

You are correct. Sorry, for some reason I was remembering them as 1/4".

Also, I got another email back from they guy.

what I think is you have a case of premature opening. Check the springs in the dyna ring and replace them I have seen most people run two in these but you might wanna try 3. You can manipulate the opening of the dr with your fingers. I think that the slippage is due to gap to big. You can check the gap by having bike in gear and revving with clutch fully pulled I wiould expect tb e bike to want to drive.

I replied with:

My bike is doing exactly that. I pull the clutch in all the way, rev up and the bike slowly moves forward.
My bike is at my parents place. I'll stop by later tonight at take a look at the springs. Do the have a spec? How many springs are in there?

His reply:

there is place for up to 6 springs they are small wave springs behind a torx bolt. You can have 2, 3, 4 or 6. The more you have the more you have to rev to go. Most people favor 2 on their kdx.

I run 2 springs as well. Otherwise lockup is way too high and makes slow/easy trail riding a pain and will cause the engine to run hotter. Even with the tungsten balls, the 10% stiffer springs, and only running 2 wave springs, I still had to up the pressure rating on my radiator cap to keep it from losing coolant.

So when you bought tungsten balls, you replaced one per set?

Yes. I replace one of the end balls in each section with a tungsten carbide ball to help keep the assembly balanced. I put them all in the same sequence so it would be easy to swap them out later if it didn't like the engagement rpm.

Like I said earlier, I ordered replacement clutch springs. The 10% stiffer ones. That should solve my slipping under full throttle issue.

It will help but not stop it. Running only two wave springs and adding the tungsten carbide balls are necessary as well, IMO, to get it where it was even remotely usable for me. You can try it without the tungsten balls and see what you think but I bet you still won't be happy with the lack of full lockup.

I'm going to order replacement wave lock springs. I currently have 3, I think I'm going to install 6. I'm hoping this will resolve me not being able to disengage the clutch at idle.

I'm not sure I'm following you here. What do you mean disengage, as in so it doesn't creep/pull at idle? If so, that is the nature of the beast. You have to adjust your idle speed up just enough so it will sit in gear with the brake holding the bike stationary. If you want to override it the pull at idle, pull in on the clutch lever.

Since my friction and steel plates are within spec, I don't think I'll order replacements. I mean, how often do wet clutches wear out?

Not very often if you don't abuse it and change your trans oil regularly.

[potosi joe]

What oil are you guys running in the tranny with the Dina Rings? Thanks Joe

[royadams]

I run a efm auto clutch he recommend type f trans fluid.

[SS109]

Yep, Type F auto transmission fluid. I change it out every four rides.

[iregret]

I'm not sure I'm following you here. What do you mean disengage, as in so it doesn't creep/pull at idle? If so, that is the nature of the beast. You have to adjust your idle speed up just enough so it will sit in gear with the brake holding the bike stationary. If you want to override it the pull at idle, pull in on the clutch lever.

It doesn't creep, it dies. I can't pull the clutch lever in either. It slowly rolls forward with the clutch lever pulled and the bike revved up. The clutch lever should override the auto clutch.

My line of thinking was that the dynaring is engaging too early. If I add more tension via more wave lock springs, it will disengage at a higher rpm.

If creeping forward is the way it's supposed to work, and putting your feet down stopping the bike kills it, then what's the point?

[SS109]

The clutch lever doesn't override the auto-clutch? Sounds like the cable isn't adjusted properly. How did you adjust it? The bike should creep/move forward at idle if you are not holding the brake. Holding the brake the bike should sit there, in gear, and not stall.

[iregret]

Oh I've adjusted it every which way. I actually ordered a replacement to rule it out.

But yes, I can never fully disengage the clutch.

[Tedh98]

This is the weird thing about the DR, some people have no set-up issues while others have a difficult time getting them set-up to work properly.

When I had mine, I remember just needing a few minutes to get it dialed in. All of the difficult set-ups must have something in common that is also very easy to overlook. The DR just isn't a complicated system.

[kkim]

Did you play with the spacing of the clutch arm by varying the space of the push arm? look at part 92022A in this pic. How many washers are in your bike? I had a problem with my DR until I had it spaced properly. (mine took 2 washers). Also, you may not have assembled the clutch pack correctly and might not have the plates all properly lined up to seat correctly. I ended up redoing my DR install at least 5 or 6 times before I could get everything to work as advertised.

Last thought... did you remove the 2 shims? Parts 16007 and 92144B. They are easy to miss as they sometimes stick to the clutch plates or basket when you remove the clutch plates.

Good luck... once set up, it's hard to live w/o a properly functioning auto clutch.

[iregret]

Thanks for the tips and the diagram. I will definitely look into it.

Also, I know I haven't forgotten any parts, because I haven't reassembled the clutch.

We will see how it goes when all my parts arrive.

Thanks for the valuable input guys.

[iregret]

So, just to clarify, part number 16007 and 92144B should not be present.

All of my parts have arrived. I'm at work right now. I'm reviewing this thread and am planning on working on the bike tomorrow.

Also, what's the procedure for proper spacing? I have one washer. How do I know if I need two?

[kkim]

So, just to clarify, part number 16007 and 92144B should not be present.

That's correct. When installing the DR, these need to be removed for proper installation.

[iregret]

Well, I put everything back together like the diagram above. I had one of the 2 rings, so I removed it.

I took 1 of the wave springs out, so now I only have 2 installed.

I replaced the clutch cable with a pro motion one.

First off, the clutch is really tight. I adjusted it so it would be in the ballpark, but it just doesn't seem to be pulling that lever on the clutch hoping all the way to 90°.

I started the bike in neutral. Pulled the clutch, clicked first. Dead. As if the clutch isn't even there.

So I got a crescent wrench and decided to engage the clutch by hand. As soon as I turned it the clutch started knocking like crazy. So I killed it and now in taking it apart again.

I don't know what I could have done wrong. Oh, and I used ATF type F.

[kkim]

I took 1 of the wave springs out, so now I only have 2 installed.

Wave springs? What number are they in the diagram?

[iregret]

It's part of the revloc. I'm thinking about it now and I think I may have figured it out. Throw it bearing misalignment.

I'll tear it down and let you guys know.

[iregret]

Here's a video of what I'm talking about.

[iregret]

Here are a few pics.

This is the length of the replacement springs.



What was weird was that they came with6 springs. I checked the part number abs it appears to be correct. Hmm. I wonder if I got the wrong ones?

2 springs side by side.



I followed the diagram above and assembled it correctly. I haven't figured out what's wrong.