KDXRIDER.NET

Hi fellas.

I've been having a problem with my clutch not fully disengaging and slipping at high rpms.

So I took the clutch apart to see what's up.

Everything appears to be normal. I spec'ed the clutch plates.



I've read that they are supposed to be replaced at 2.7, so these are pretty bad.

What I'm wondering is if they're different specs for the revloc? If not, do I just order a clutch kit off eBay? I may as well replace the throw out bearing while I'm at it. Do you guys have a recommended place for ordering parts?

Thanks!

Springs are out of spec too.

I was having some clutch problems with my bike, same thing slipping when changing gears at high RPMs.

After a new set of springs the problem was solved.

IIRC, the Revloc steels are not the same spec as the factory Kawasaki steels. What exactly they should be, I don't know. Are you sure yours is adjusted correctly? What year KDX?

Mine slipped all the time when I first got it and I almost gave up on it. I ended up going with some EBC 10% stiffer springs and replacing 6 of the engagement balls with tungsten carbide (heavier) versions to cause lock up at a lower RPM. Now, after the mods, I love my Dyna Ring!

My bike is a 2001.

I could measure the clutch pack over all and try to rebuild it that way. I think a huge part of my problem is the wear.

What have others done when their dynaring wore out?

iregret wrote:What have others done when their dynaring wore out?

Honestly, you would be the first I have ever heard of wearing out anything after running the Dyna Ring!

Well, the dynaring itself is fine, but the friction plates are out if spec.

Where did you find the heavier carbide balls?

I'm guessing I could order an entire clutch assembly and measure the overall width. Then remove some friction and steel plates. Add the dynaring and remeasure until overall width is similar.

I don't know what else to do.

How do you know the steels are out of spec? Are they not the special Revloc steels> I know Revloc's own steels do NOT measure the same as what the Kawasaki manual calls for. That is what you have to expect when using aftermarket parts. Revloc is still in business in Australia. Maybe you can get in touch with them and find out what the spec should be. Slaven's bought out the remaining Revloc parts in the US so you also might try contacting them.

As for the carbide balls, I bought them through Rekluse. They use the same size bearing balls in one of their autoclutches for a KTM 250. I bought six in 1/4" diameter for like $4 each. You won't find them on the website. You will have to call them. The Rekluse part number is 432-308 You will want to replace the balls in order of threes. So, 3, 6, 9, 12, and so on. Make sure you space them out evenly around the Dyna-Ring or it will be out of balance. Plus, remember what slot you put them in as they look identical to the regular steel ones. I put all mine in the right most ramp in each section.

Well, I didn't measure the steels, only the friction plates. They appear worn and are much thinner than the service manual calls for.

I wouldn't think that the engineer would use different friction plates. That would be an added expense. I'm just guessing that the steels are stronger, but the friction plates are just factory pieces. I don't know though. I do some emailing.

Thanks for your help.

EDIT: damn iPhone autocorrect.

I read somewhere that Revlov used different plates than stock. It said the the plates were from Barnett. Don't remember if it was the steel or the fiber. I would talk to some one at Barnett to see if they have any information on this subject.

iregret wrote:Well, I don't measure the steels, only the friction plates. They appear worn and are much thinner than the service manual calls for.

I wouldn't think that detonating would use different friction plates. That would be an added expense. I'm just guessing that the steels are stronger, but the friction plates are just factory pieces. I don't know though. I do some emailing.

Thanks for your help.

Ah, see now, I was thinking this whole time you were talking about the steels. Yes, it uses the factory fiber disc from Kawasaki. Revloc said that all their DR's were designed to work with the factory fibers and that they did not test with aftermarket versions. So, to sum up, steels are Revloc only items, fiber discs are factory Kawasaki items.

Auto clutch....waste of time and money.

KDXsg wrote:Auto clutch....waste of time and money.

Yeah! Why would anyone want something that reduces hand fatigue, makes a bike more tractable, easier to ride longer, and reduces the amount of things that you need to concentrate on. Sounds pretty stupid to me. That would be like putting an automatic transmission in a car. Who would ever want that.

rbates...is that what sarcasm looks like? Cuz that would mean you are dissing those of us who like arm pump and wrist fatigue, poor tractability, short rides and lots of distraction! If my arms weren't so tired I'd jump in my 5 speed manual truck and come have words with you.

rbates9 wrote:

KDXsg wrote:Auto clutch....waste of time and money.

Yeah! Why would anyone want something that reduces hand fatigue, makes a bike more tractable, easier to ride longer, and reduces the amount of things that you need to concentrate on. Sounds pretty stupid to me. That would be like putting an automatic transmission in a car. Who would ever want that.

Well said!

bufftester wrote:rbates...is that what sarcasm looks like? Cuz that would mean you are dissing those of us who like arm pump and wrist fatigue, poor tractability, short rides and lots of distraction! If my arms weren't so tired I'd jump in my 5 speed manual truck and come have words with you.

Well I emailed Slavens racing.

Hey Justin,

The Dyna Ring for the KDX came with new friction and steel plates. The frictions were 2.5mm and the steels were 1mm. You needed these thinner than stock plates to fit the Dyna Ring in the clutch pack.

If that's the case, my friction plates are probably fine. He said that they had to save space in the clutch pack so everything was made narrower.

He said the custom friction plates were made by Barnett.

I asked about heaver ball bearings and he said I already have the heaviest.

So I guess I'll just order some new springs and go from there. I'll go ahead and replace my clutch cable as well.

Any recommendations for a clutch cable?

Thanks!

Well I ordered

Clutch cable
Clutch springs
Magnetic drain plug
Cover gasket

Hopefully this will cure my clutch woes.

bufftester wrote:rbates...is that what sarcasm looks like? Cuz that would mean you are dissing those of us who like arm pump and wrist fatigue, poor tractability, short rides and lots of distraction! If my arms weren't so tired I'd jump in my 5 speed manual truck and come have words with you.

I meant no disrespect. I too enjoy all of those things aswell.

iregret wrote:Well I emailed Slavens racing.

Hey Justin,

The Dyna Ring for the KDX came with new friction and steel plates. The frictions were 2.5mm and the steels were 1mm. You needed these thinner than stock plates to fit the Dyna Ring in the clutch pack.

If that's the case, my friction plates are probably fine. He said that they had to save space in the clutch pack so everything was made narrower.

He said the custom friction plates were made by Barnett.

I asked about heaver ball bearings and he said I already have the heaviest.

So I guess I'll just order some new springs and go from there. I'll go ahead and replace my clutch cable as well.

Any recommendations for a clutch cable?

Thanks!

Well, I'm glad that when they designed the one for the E-series they used the factory fibers (got that straight from Alan at Revloc) and not some special discs.

I really doubt that you have all tungsten balls in there and, honestly, I doubt you have a single one! First off, they are expensive. Secondly, Revloc never offered them, with the DR or separately, to help fine tune the Dyna-Ring. I'm sure Slavens is correct in that you have the heaviest as they weren't offered so the stock steel balls are the heaviest from Revloc. However, that doesn't mean you can't improve upon the lockup by using tungsten balls. Again, I bought mine from Rekluse, not Revloc. Revloc had already closed up shop here in the US when I was trying to get mine to work without slipping constantly even at high revs. I was about ready to give up on it ever working right. One last shot I decided to do some research on my own to figure out what might work and I'm really happy I did. Otherwise, I would have sold my DR off a long time ago and not be enjoying the awesome benefits of having an autoclutch!

Okay, so if I contact recluse about the ball bearings, what do I say? I don't have the dynaring in front of me. What size and how many balls do I need?