Unitrack service

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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

Jason: re: 'there has to be some reason...'

Yeah. I'm sure there is. Maybe it's related to actually riding the thing? ...maybe not. ;)

Most every time I've replaced the bearing /sleeve I have also replaced the seals just for insurance. The couple of times I used the 'old' seals I didn't notice any difference in longevity.

The only thing that has effected the life of this joint is using Hydrosyn-70 grease. Still...it's not good enough. The fit of the whole oem thing sure isn't going to keep out the elements.

No, I don't blast the hell out of it with a pressure washer, either. I stay away from that joint when I spray off the bike.

BTW...the bearing is placed in the knuckle to +/- .001" side-to-side to make sure the seals fit as they should. So...that's not the issue.

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Post by KDXGarage »

Did you put the sleeve in the Nylarod tube, then press them both in at once?

I finally figured out what you mean by shock fork. I think the technical term is clevis.

Concerning, "A simple lever operated bench type press will do fine.": Do you mean like wibby's arbor press? I am assuming you have seen his arbor press. An arbor press like his is on my long "tools to get one day" list.

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Post by skipro3 »

Thanks for the definition of "crush". More questions:
1. When you press the bushing in, is the sleeve going in at the same time or bushing first, then slip the sleeve into the "crushed" opening in the bushing?
2. Does the sleeve move at all inside the bushing by hand or is the fit too snug?
3. I'm guessing the bushing is NOT supposed to move once pressed into the knuckle. Do you think it might need to be keyed to the knuckle to prevent movement? (Assumes you would need to make the matching notch for the key in the bushing.) It might pay to make a register mark on the bushing and knuckle to see if it shifts around during use.
4. Sorry about the "lube" question. My mind slipped and didn't associate the properties of anti-seize with lubricant. Man, it's right there on the lable and part of the name of the product. Full name of the product, "Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant".
5. Thanks for the tip on the thread length on the bolt. The design of the thread cut is very critical but I didn't realize it until you pointed it out.
P.S. I ride dirt. :sad: Kawasaki designed the thing around dry dirt, that's all. Now go mix yourself that martini, you've earned it :partyman: .
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Post by skipro3 »

Yes, I KNOW I asked the same question on the press proceedure in regards to the sleeve as Jason, so don't go off on me. :wink: His wasn't posted at the time I last read the tread and replied in kind.
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Post by canyncarvr »

skipro3 wrote:Thanks for the definition of "crush". More questions:
1. When you press the bushing in, is the sleeve going in at the same time or bushing first, then slip the sleeve into the "crushed" opening in the bushing?
Bushing goes in all by itself. Sleeve slips in later, a lot later...even the very next day if you want!
2. Does the sleeve move at all inside the bushing by hand or is the fit too snug?
It moves by hand just fine. It is not too snug
3. I'm guessing the bushing is NOT supposed to move once pressed into the knuckle. Do you think it might need to be keyed to the knuckle to prevent movement? (Assumes you would need to make the matching notch for the key in the bushing.) It might pay to make a register mark on the bushing and knuckle to see if it shifts around during use.
It's not going anywhere...but the marking of it is a good idea.

I'm concerned that the nylarod will 'dent' or 'goober'.

But...the TOP of the shock is just a rubber bushing! It rotates just as much as the bottom does (well, unless the shock is bending somewhere along the line. ...that was a joke.)
4. Sorry about the "lube" question. My mind slipped and didn't associate the properties of anti-seize with lubricant. Man, it's right there on the lable and part of the name of the product. Full name of the product, "Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant".
Yeah. You don't get a gold star for that one! ;)

5. Thanks for the tip on the thread length on the bolt. The design of the thread cut is very critical but I didn't realize it until you pointed it out.
P.S. I ride dirt. :sad: Kawasaki designed the thing around dry dirt, that's all. Now go mix yourself that martini, you've earned it :partyman: .
And so he did!!!

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Post by canyncarvr »

OK...clevis then. ;)

Now I gotta go look that up...............

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Post by canyncarvr »

Update:

At 170 miles, I took it apart to see how it was doing.

It's fine. Fit is as good as it was new. It WAS wet...which is what kills the thing in the first place I'm sure. The oem grease seals dont...seal in the grease OR out the water.

Wet is good. The machinist told me that nylarod likes wet...when it's run bone dry it won't do as well (grease used on assembly in that case should be fine).

Still had some anti-seize on the bolt. No elongation or 'pooching' of the bushing.

The 302 SS sleeve was fine.

Loookeeng good!!


Still haven't seen any stories from someone that thinks this lower shock bearing absolutely SUCKS...and wants to try one'a these......... Gee...I din't think NO one would be interested...........

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Post by Indawoods »

Well CC... I've yet to rip mine down.... If I see what I think I will see... then I am game! I bought this KDX in March and have just rode it... well after tearing the top end off because the KIPS wasn't working and the missing circlip incident. :neutral: If that is any indication to what I will find when she's in pieces... then I'm sure it will need one! Getting the shock serviced as well... it's leaking... could this be an indication that the bearing is toast?
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Post by skipro3 »

I'm in the same mode as Inda; I've yet to tear it down. Like I said earlier, after the initial lube when I got the bike, I've just been pulling the bolt out and looking for any sign of water. It looks just like how I put it in. I also check the rear for any slop every time I have it up in it's stand. This week and next, I am off work for the holidays so on Tuesday, I will tear it completely down. (Unless of course, I go riding!) From what it feels like assembled, I don't expect any problems. Zero slop or movement in any direction other than what it's supposed to do.
I'd take one off your hands for your asking price just to save me the $$$ Pivot Works wants for theirs if I find mine is ready for a replacement, but it sounded like you were really looking for folks who trash their bearings regular like.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Inda: Shock leaking shouldn't have any relation or connection to the bearing. But...a shock that is not serviced as it should be will leak more often than a shock that is regularly taken care of. Let me know about the bottom mount bearing.

Ski: Yeah. If I had two extras (I have one) I'd send 'ya one. But...as you have said, your bearing seems to do just fine in your riding conditions. I am curious how it would do in dry/dust, though.

If Inda says his looks great, I'll flip a coin.

Asking price? Ain't no asking price. No price at'all. :wink:

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Post by skipro3 »

Still haven't taken it apart since Doug's son may be borrowing it while he's on leave. (He's a Marine and heading back to Iraq after the first of the year.) I will tear it down though and even take a few photos of it so you can assess the condition. Thanks for the work you're doing with the bearing failure though. You may just want to work with Stealhy, Gary(EFM) or Ron(RBDesigns) and market it through them! Then you can retire a rich man.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Let's do the math....


I have yet to GIVE one away (cost me about $30 each)!

If correctly marketed at the going price, I come up with......


....spending a lot of money on POSTAGE!! ;)

I'll retire a rich man anyway....'cuz of all my frenz!!!



...now THAT was a joke 'fer SURE!! :roll:

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Post by skipro3 »

Don't bother flippin the coin. Give that thing to Inda and have him credit you with being a "contributing" member and not a freeloader.
:butthead: :shock: :lol:

You know me, I'd never appreciate the performance difference. I only wanted it cause it's different, CC has one, and I need an excuse to spend another evening in the garage!!! Problably doesn't hold up in dry dusty conditions anyway. Besides, you would want me to keep taking it apart to inspect it for wear. And you KNOW I'm too lazy for that.
:?
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Post by canyncarvr »

Nylarod is out.


My logs show 500 miles on my bike since I put the Nylarod bushing in. Checked it (bike on stand..lever rear tire up and down..look for movement in the bushing...see some...crap!).

Took it out. ID was .008" bigger than it was when I put it in. Sleeve was fine.

I have three of these things (nylarod/SS302 sleeves), so I just put in another one.

This on another thread...but I orderd a double-sealed bearing from McMaster-Carr that I'm going to try next. It's 4mm wider than the unsealed type...so the oem seals won't fit with the sealed bearing...maybe. I might try trimming the inner lip off the oem seal. That' will give me a bit more room.

The MC bearing is a caged roller setup, too. Fewer rollers but they will be held in straight and have more space for grease.

The search goes on...... :cry:

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Post by KDXGarage »

"My logs show 500 miles on my bike since I put the Nylarod bushing in."

Damn. Has it been 2.5 years already? :mrgreen: I gotta get out more. :rolleyes:

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Post by canyncarvr »

500 miles in three months or so? Geezlouise...that isn't squat. Compared to the last several years I've hardly ridden at all this past calendar year. No one to ride with...riding alone isn't smart but I do it anyway, just not too often. Everyone is either 'too busy' or it's 'too cold' or 'too wet' or..or..or...

Whiners! :wink:

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Post by KDXGarage »

I actually have ridden several hundred miles this year. The odometer on my truck says so. :oops:

Thanks again on the report and let us know how the eternal quest continues. :grin:
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Re: Unitrack service

Post by factoryX »

what the ****
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Re: Unitrack service

Post by KDXGarage »

I guess we got attacked. I have been deleting and banning.
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