You wouldn't have a link to that would you?Tedh98 wrote:I also liked that Lectron had their 34mm and 36mm carbs on a KDX on the dyno.
Lectron carbs
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Re: Lectron carbs
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I'm not sure if those are even online. When I was talking with Kevin @ Lectron, he was asking me about my bike and the carb that is currently on there. He said their 34mm carb would outflow the 35mm aristriker I'm currently using. But he then said something along the lines of "let me check the dyno sheets . . ." and he came back saying that the 36mm did better everywhere on the KDX engine.rbates9 wrote:You wouldn't have a link to that would you?Tedh98 wrote:I also liked that Lectron had their 34mm and 36mm carbs on a KDX on the dyno.
I found the specs on the APT carb. The reed boot/spigot end or whatever it is called is 46mm. The reed boot/spigot end of the KDX carb is 42mm. I don't think the boot will stretch 4mm.
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Lectron carbs
Thanks. About how much are the Lectron carbs going for?
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Re: Lectron carbs
My carb was $300 and the adjustable power jet was $15.
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Re: Lectron carbs
I thought it came with the power jet?
Last edited by factoryX on 12:45 am Apr 04 2013, edited 1 time in total.
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The $15 extra was for the adjustable power jet.
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Re: Lectron carbs
Yo ted, any updates? I'm really interested on how runs on the KDX.
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I'm working on getting the bike back together. This is how it all looks right now:
I had started off re-greasing all the rear suspension bearings. But then I got it in my head to try the 450F shroud conversion. And then I got it in my head to get the Lectron.
Since the bell/air box side of the Lectron is a little larger, I thought I'd try to use the KX air boot this time. I need to do a little work on a spare KX airbox to get it to line up, but hopefully I will have that done in a couple of days and can get everything back together to start the bike up.
I had started off re-greasing all the rear suspension bearings. But then I got it in my head to try the 450F shroud conversion. And then I got it in my head to get the Lectron.
Since the bell/air box side of the Lectron is a little larger, I thought I'd try to use the KX air boot this time. I need to do a little work on a spare KX airbox to get it to line up, but hopefully I will have that done in a couple of days and can get everything back together to start the bike up.
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Lectron carbs
Several things have kept me out of the workshop until the other day. I finished the modifications to the KX air boot and air box to make it all work and have the carb in place.
I put the tank on just to fire it up in the back yard and ran into this little problem:
I'll get more fuel line tomorrow.
I put the tank on just to fire it up in the back yard and ran into this little problem:
I'll get more fuel line tomorrow.
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Re: Lectron carbs
I've got a brief ride report - I only got a chance to ride around the back yard for about 10 minutes.
With the choke on, the engine started on the 2nd kick. I only left the choke on a couple of seconds and waited for the engine to warm up before making a small adjustment to the idle speed.
I am comparing the Lectron to my well dialed in airstriker. When I had the DEK needle a few guys that rode my bike commented on how strong it ran. Then when I added the JD needle it got only better. A couple of things I noticed with the Lectron:
- There was less smoke than before during warm-up.
- Out of the box, the jetting seems really good. Throttle response was crisp and it is even easier than before to get the front tire in the air.
- The power delivery is nice and smooth.
- Having the choke on the right side is going to take some getting used to. I'm not sure what it would be like on a KDX, but on the hybrid there isn't a lot of room to get your hand in there. I'm glad using the choke is only done on a cold engine because I have to put a lot of my hand in contact with the pipe.
Even though the jetting seems close now, I'm going to have to mess with it to see if there is any room for improvement. I haven't tried it yet, but it looks like if I use a small screwdriver I'll be able to adjust the power jet without removing/loosening anything on the bike. I do think I'll have to remove the tank to make changes to the metering rod - I don't think rotating the carb is going to cut it. I was told that the best way to jet the carb is to get it running correctly during the summer and then it will take care of itself the rest of the year.
With the choke on, the engine started on the 2nd kick. I only left the choke on a couple of seconds and waited for the engine to warm up before making a small adjustment to the idle speed.
I am comparing the Lectron to my well dialed in airstriker. When I had the DEK needle a few guys that rode my bike commented on how strong it ran. Then when I added the JD needle it got only better. A couple of things I noticed with the Lectron:
- There was less smoke than before during warm-up.
- Out of the box, the jetting seems really good. Throttle response was crisp and it is even easier than before to get the front tire in the air.
- The power delivery is nice and smooth.
- Having the choke on the right side is going to take some getting used to. I'm not sure what it would be like on a KDX, but on the hybrid there isn't a lot of room to get your hand in there. I'm glad using the choke is only done on a cold engine because I have to put a lot of my hand in contact with the pipe.
Even though the jetting seems close now, I'm going to have to mess with it to see if there is any room for improvement. I haven't tried it yet, but it looks like if I use a small screwdriver I'll be able to adjust the power jet without removing/loosening anything on the bike. I do think I'll have to remove the tank to make changes to the metering rod - I don't think rotating the carb is going to cut it. I was told that the best way to jet the carb is to get it running correctly during the summer and then it will take care of itself the rest of the year.
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Lectron carbs
Do they have a remote choke lever for it like the newer gasgas bikes have. looks like I need one of those carbs
Did I say riding?
- Tedh98
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It looks like they have some things for a cable operated set-up: http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/products/parts-1.htmlkdxtreme wrote:Do they have a remote choke lever for it like the newer gasgas bikes have. looks like I need one of those carbs
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looks like a perch with a hotstart lever and a cable could make that work.
Did I say riding?
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Lectron carbs
Tedh98 wrote:It looks like they have some things for a cable operated set-up: http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/products/parts-1.htmlkdxtreme wrote:Do they have a remote choke lever for it like the newer gasgas bikes have. looks like I need one of those carbs
and surprisingly affordable too
newbbewb wrote:DIYmirage has it right.
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Lectron carbs
Made me think of something I read a while back about moving the choke on a KLX. May help, maybe not, just another idea.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/687244 ... on-how-to/
Would be kinda clean if you could find a good place to mount it on the "correct" side. I also think you could find a mount that woul attach to the handlebar mounts and tuck in behind the number plate.
Just thinking out loud. Good luck
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/687244 ... on-how-to/
Would be kinda clean if you could find a good place to mount it on the "correct" side. I also think you could find a mount that woul attach to the handlebar mounts and tuck in behind the number plate.
Just thinking out loud. Good luck
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Lectron carbs
I haven't gone on a real ride yet, but have been messing around in the back yard and thought I would provide some feedback.
The RHS choke: It is easier to pull the choke up/on from the right side of the bike and push it down/off from the left hand side. If I get really bored I might try to put something together, but it isn't that big a deal.
Jetting: I have to be careful, but I can adjust the power jet with a really long screwdriver. I'm going to try to find one of those flex-shaft extensions - that should make it a piece of cake.
I do have to take the carb off the bike to make changes to the metering rod. I don't have the clearance to rotate the carb. If I leave the side panels off, I can shut the bike off, adjust the metering rod and fire it back up in about 9 minutes.
It is nice to be able to adjust the metering rod with just your fingers. But you do need to be careful to keep track of the changes you are making. It is best to keep a running total of your changes so you can go back to your original setting - there aren't numbers stamped or clip positions to tell you what your current setting is.
Metering rod tuning is pretty simple. The slide opening will give you a good clue if you are too rich or lean. I was testing some settings out and maxed out the slide opening and it still wouldn't idle cleanly - that told me I was way too rich - but it still ran better than I would have expected. 1/4 increments have a noticeable difference, so you will know when you get it right.
I think I've settled on 1/4 turn leaner than how it was shipped. I expect the power jet will be a little rich as well, but I'll have to wait for a real ride to confirm that.
Misc: I didn't realize it, but there is a filter inside the float bowl. I haven't removed the float bowl yet to see just what type of filter it is, but hopefully it isn't just a piece of coarse foam. It would be nice if it will catch the really small garbage.
That clear float bowl makes it so easy to see if the float setting is correct. You do need to take the carb off the bike and hold it level and then turn on the gas to check.
There isn't a drain on the float bowl. I used to tip my bike over at the end of the day to drain out most of the gas. But that doesn't work with the Lectron. I was going to contact them and see if they have any options. I don't want to have to run the bike to drain the gas if I don't have to.
The RHS choke: It is easier to pull the choke up/on from the right side of the bike and push it down/off from the left hand side. If I get really bored I might try to put something together, but it isn't that big a deal.
Jetting: I have to be careful, but I can adjust the power jet with a really long screwdriver. I'm going to try to find one of those flex-shaft extensions - that should make it a piece of cake.
I do have to take the carb off the bike to make changes to the metering rod. I don't have the clearance to rotate the carb. If I leave the side panels off, I can shut the bike off, adjust the metering rod and fire it back up in about 9 minutes.
It is nice to be able to adjust the metering rod with just your fingers. But you do need to be careful to keep track of the changes you are making. It is best to keep a running total of your changes so you can go back to your original setting - there aren't numbers stamped or clip positions to tell you what your current setting is.
Metering rod tuning is pretty simple. The slide opening will give you a good clue if you are too rich or lean. I was testing some settings out and maxed out the slide opening and it still wouldn't idle cleanly - that told me I was way too rich - but it still ran better than I would have expected. 1/4 increments have a noticeable difference, so you will know when you get it right.
I think I've settled on 1/4 turn leaner than how it was shipped. I expect the power jet will be a little rich as well, but I'll have to wait for a real ride to confirm that.
Misc: I didn't realize it, but there is a filter inside the float bowl. I haven't removed the float bowl yet to see just what type of filter it is, but hopefully it isn't just a piece of coarse foam. It would be nice if it will catch the really small garbage.
That clear float bowl makes it so easy to see if the float setting is correct. You do need to take the carb off the bike and hold it level and then turn on the gas to check.
There isn't a drain on the float bowl. I used to tip my bike over at the end of the day to drain out most of the gas. But that doesn't work with the Lectron. I was going to contact them and see if they have any options. I don't want to have to run the bike to drain the gas if I don't have to.
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Re: Lectron carbs
You should be able to blow into one of the vents to drain the carb.
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'95 KDX 200 Project $600 KDX
'94 WR 250 Always a project