KDXRIDER.NET

I replaced the clutch cable with a new Tusk, and lever is still hard to pull. It makes "fanning the clutch" difficult to do.

My '11 KX 100's clutch lever is buttery smooth and light weight. My KDX's feel twice as heavy to pull. Is the KDX clutch suppose to be this heavy?

Mine was difficult to pull too. It turned out to be a ball and spring inside the plunger that had stopped the plunger from plunging all the way down. This made the lever feel very stiff because the actuator and plunger were in effect trying to push the whole clutch out the other side of the engine. I'm not sure if the little spring and ball bearing are supposed to be in the center of the clutch or not but I removed them and the clutch felt much better.

I don't have any pics to show what I mean but by plunger I mean what the actuator (in the clutch cover) hits when it turns.
Clear as mud?

I don't know how your lever feels but I also don't know what you might be expecting.

My KDX's clutch lever is stiffer than any street bike I have ridden and it all seems to be in the very beginning of the pull.
That said I have no issues at all feathering.

Unless you have extraordinarily weak/small hands (hopefully not the case) you shouldn't be having issues.
Check cable routing to make sure nothing is binding, then start checking internals.

Try a new lever and perch. Mine wasn't hard to pull before by my standards but the new (MSR I think) lever and perch made a noticeable difference. The lever and perch with a brake lever was about $20 or so if I remember right.

Fletch wrote: I'm not sure if the little spring and ball bearing are supposed to be in the center of the clutch or not but I removed them and the clutch felt much better.
Clear as mud?

And you're expecting it to last how long that way???
No offense but if I'm pretty sure if it was there, there has to be a reason...
A pic/diagram of what your're talking about would be most helpful cuz i'm not even sure of what exactly you are referring to...

To the OP:
1. Have you taken it apart recently? if so, did you forget the little shim 99% ppl forget or lose?
2. check cable routing
3. lube lever
4. inspect the actuator, see if it's worn out
5. are your clutch plate still in specs?
6. clutch hub grooved?

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorc ... #sch310912
what bearing and spring???

Weird, it was behind the pusher. I had a spring that was all bound up with a ball bearing on the end of it. It's been working great ever since I removed it. Makes me think it wasn't supposed to be there in the first place...

checked on the diagram i posted?

Yep. Someone must have put it in there.
Weird because that bottom end had few hours and was in very original shape... They must have thought that a spring and ball would help the pusher stay out against the actuator.
Anyway I suppose this won't help the OP and unless the clutch cover is off not to bother checking.

I have not open the clutch cover at all since I bought the bike over one year ago.

Just got back from the Doctor. He said I got tendonitis from using the heavy clutch. Now my wrist hurts too much when I ride my KDX. So I am stuck with riding the KX for now. The KX clutch is so light I can use just 1 finger to pull it.

scheckaet wrote:To the OP:
1. Have you taken it apart recently? if so, did you forget the little shim 99% ppl forget or lose?
2. check cable routing
3. lube lever
4. inspect the actuator, see if it's worn out
5. are your clutch plate still in specs?
6. clutch hub grooved?

Yep, answer those questions and you will find the problem. Even my bike, with the heavy preload required by the Dyna-Ring and the EBC HD clutch springs, the clutch pull isn't that bad. Of course, I have an MSR AOI clutch perch/lever setup, Motion Pro Terminator clutch cable, and a basket that isn't notched. Something is definitely wrong with your setup.

Okay...so I finally opened the clutch cover. And inspected everything. I didn't see any sign of wear on the actuator.

I try to get the clutch plates out, but looks like I need to remove a big nut. It just spins freely. I thought about
hitting it with my impact gun. But I didn't know how I would tighten it back up to spec torque. How do you hold
the crank shaft to tighten/loosen this nut?

are your clutch plate still in specs?

If the clutch plates are too thin, wouldn't that make the pull easier instead.

I put mine in gear and have one of the kids sit on it and hold the rear brake.

Also for cable lube I am going to use "liquid Wrench" brand silicone spray. It's available at Advance Auto Parts on sale for $3.

terminatr wrote:How do you hold
the crank shaft to tighten/loosen this nut?

When you need to tighten the clutch hub nut you can put it in gear and hold the brake as said before but the clutch will want to spin because the springs aren't holding the pack together. If you put some washers on the clutch springs and tighten them with out the center flange it will hold the clutch engaged. There is a picture in the case splitting section.

rbates9 wrote:

terminatr wrote:How do you hold
the crank shaft to tighten/loosen this nut?

.... If you put some washers on the clutch springs and tighten them with out the center flange...

Please, which part is the 'center flange' referred to?





Diagram, with part numbers and nomenclature, can be seen HERE!


Thanks.

13091A


13091-1872

HOLDER,CLUTCH SPRING

i never had this issue with the 4 clutches i've messed with.

I don't know, I did and this is what I came up with.

I replaced the clutch cable with a new Tusk, and lever is still hard to pull. It makes "fanning the clutch" difficult to do.

My '11 KX 100's clutch lever is buttery smooth and light weight. My KDX's feel twice as heavy to pull. Is the KDX clutch suppose to be this heavy?

I have a KX100, also. The KX100 is definately an easier pull than the KDX. It isn't twice as easy, but close. The KX clutch pull feels like a little bike and the KDX feels manly


Is your cable routed the best way? try a couple of different routes? It does make a difference.
I don't like to lube a cable. I like them new and dry, lube seems to be good for a ride or two and then gum up.

The last time I replaced plates in my clutch I used an electric impact gun to get the nut off. Great tool!
I also just put that big nut on with the impact gun and did not worry about torque. I just put it on tight, man.
No, I'm not going to work on YOUR bike, so don't worry about it.

KarlP wrote:The last time I replaced plates in my clutch I used an electric impact gun to get the nut off. Great tool!
I also just put that big nut on with the impact gun and did not worry about torque. I just put it on tight, man.

I thinking that's what I do too. I got one of those Harbor Freight impact gun rated for 200 ft-lb. But it is actually like 100 ft-lb, because it barelys has the torque to take off car lug nuts torqued to 80 ft-lb. Since the nut on the clutch is 70 ft-lb, I don't think the impact gun can hurt it.