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Cutting fork springs, lowering

Posted: 10:06 am Oct 02 2012
by terminatr
Hi.
I tore my fork apart, and am preparing to add spacers and cut the fork spring.
I'm going to add a 1-inch spacer to limit upper travel--i.e. lower the front by 1-inch.

(1) If I add a 1-inch spacer, how much of the spring should I cut?

(2) Is it okay to use metal washers as spacers? Do I need worry about it floating?

P.s. Fork is stock. In addition to the spacer, I intend to slide the fork up the tripple clamp by 1/2 inch. So this would give me a total lowering of 1.5-inches. Which would match the amount on the rear lowering by the Kuobo link.

Cutting fork springs, lowering

Posted: 02:32 pm Oct 02 2012
by pumpguy
I can't answer your question about the about the fork springs but do have a question about your Kouba links. Can you tell me the new center-to-center distance these links gave you between the 2 pivot points?

Cutting fork springs, lowering

Posted: 04:52 pm Oct 02 2012
by Slick_Nick
Cut springs = BAD IDEA

Re: Cutting fork springs, lowering

Posted: 07:42 pm Oct 02 2012
by Goofaroo
Here's a link to the only source that I know of for shorter stanchion tubes:

http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/

You might also ask them what to do about springs. If you can't find anything you can contact Cannon Racecraft here in Oklahoma City and they can wind you a set of springs to your specific needs. He makes all the springs for Sonic Springs and he used to provide the springs for most of the other major brands until they started to outsource to China. I have used him before for a set of straight rate springs for my CB500 and my Kawasaki Concours.

I don't know much about lowering your bike but I'm sure you need to do it properly so it doesn't bottom violently or the front tire doesn't bottom into the fender. Good luck and let us know what you learn as you do your homework.

Cutting fork springs, lowering

Posted: 07:44 pm Oct 02 2012
by zomby woof
There's nothing wrong with cutting springs. If anything, it will increase the spring rate, which the stock springs can use (although the effect will be minimal). The stock springs are really the wrong length, and the preload from the factory is a joke, so it's hard to say. I might be inclined to spacer 1" in the bottom and remove 1" from the stock preload spacer.

Cutting fork springs, lowering

Posted: 07:46 pm Oct 02 2012
by zomby woof
pumpguy wrote:I can't answer your question about the about the fork springs but do have a question about your Kouba links. Can you tell me the new center-to-center distance these links gave you between the 2 pivot points?
I started a thread about lowering links a while ago that might answer your question.

Re: Cutting fork springs, lowering

Posted: 07:54 pm Oct 02 2012
by Goofaroo
It looks like Racetech offers the service for $225. Here's a link with a bit of info:

http://racetech.com/page/title/Lowering

Re: Cutting fork springs, lowering

Posted: 09:05 am Oct 03 2012
by KarlP
I don't see how cutting the springs and increasing the spacer length lowers the fork. If you don't increase the spacer length the preload goes negative and the spring is floating when the forks are fully extended.

You might want to rethink this.

Cutting fork springs, lowering

Posted: 11:28 am Oct 03 2012
by zomby woof
You put a spacer in the bottom to limit it's travel, essentially moving the bottom tube up the amount you want to lower, in it's static state. It's a very common way to lower a bike.

Cutting fork springs, lowering

Posted: 12:07 pm Oct 03 2012
by kneekicker
I have a side question on the springs.

I picked up a pair of XR650 springs to stiffen up front forks but the were much longer than KDX springs.....do I need to run the spacer or can it be eliminated.

Cutting fork springs, lowering

Posted: 05:04 pm Oct 03 2012
by zomby woof
The spacer is for preloading the stock springs. It is not required if you run a proper length and rate spring.

Cutting fork springs, lowering

Posted: 09:00 pm Oct 03 2012
by terminatr
I added a spacer to lower the fork by 1". (see blue arrow) Space is made out of two pieces of cheap nylon
plastic from Lowes. I hope it's strong enough. It doesn't fit well either. It'll have to do until I find something
more suitable.

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