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Anytime you park it you need to shut off the fuel valve. And on my '90, the valve has to be perfectly horizontal or it will start flowing fuel.

Thanks rbates9,
I see what you mean by no gunk getting into the carb bowl from the air cleaner. When I took the fuel line of the first time the fuel inlet was full of molasses type gunk. So I definitely missed some areas cleaning everything the first time. The Fuel line was gunked up too. I threw it back together the first time quickly with all the original parts just to see if it would start and run through the gears. Cleaned the carb again today and setup a temporary gas tank. When I hold the carburetor straight it doesn't leak, when I tilt it so many degrees it does. Wish I had a float gauge.
As far as oil goes did you mean many brands F ATF or many type oils like 10/30, 10-40 straight 30 etc.

You can try what the books call for or go with a reputable brand of oil meant for motorcycle transmissions. When you go to the local bike shop just about anything they have there should work. Or you could go to the local parts store and pick up a quart of 10w30 or so NON ENERGY CONSERVING or any brand type F atf transmission fluid.

Just from my experience anything that says "saver" on the bottle whether it is gear or clutch didn't work for crap. The best luck I have had is with NAPA type F atf. I would suggest trying what you feel comfortable with and if you think it is shifting funny or the clutch is acting up it could be the oil, try something else. Also don't be afraid to put the whole quart in, a little extra oil will quiet down the KIPS and gears and the extra oil will last a little bit longer. Or leave it a the 750 ml if thats what you want.

Rbates9,
Dose that info apply on a 92 K x 250. Book calls for 850 ml or center of sight glass when vertical. And if you guys recommend Napa F ATF That's what I'm trying because my brothers kawi 88 250s clutch always sliped and I think we used the recommended kawi oil.

I can't say for sure about the KX but I would give it a try. I would think that the extra oil in the 250 would be less of an issue then on the 200. It will get rid of what it cant handel.
Also I used NAPA because that was the cheapest oil I could get in town on a Sunday when I put my bike back together. Others have used many different brands of Type F with simular results so don't go out of your way to find it. The biggest thing is that you use Type F and not any other formulas. The different types of oil are for different seal compounds, friction plate material, and adhesives used to hold the friction material to the discs in an automatic transmission. You may get lucky with another type of ATF but the type F has been proven to work well in a two stroke transmission. It wouldn't be a bad idea to bump the change intervals up a little.

Rbates9,
Thanks for all the info.
What do you think I should do about the varnish on the bottom of my tank. Is that stuff going to flake off and cause a problem. I didn't feel like sticking a rag in there and using a long pry bar to try and wipe around than flush with gas.

Drop in a bunch of small nuts and some solvent, cap it off and shake it around a little. You may want to remove the petcock to it doesn't get hurt.

Sounds like a good idea but I don't have enough nuts too to do the trick but I have a big box of roofing nails that I think will work the same if I put enough. Definitely going to try.

francis wrote:Sounds like a good idea but I don't have enough nuts too to do the trick but I have a big box of roofing nails that I think will work the same if I put enough. Definitely going to try.

Nails might gouge things up inside the tank more than knock off crud.
You can use almost anything. Nuts, bolts, rocks, coins, you get the idea. You are just trying to knock loose varnish that will then be washed out with the solvent.

You can go to Tractor Supply and buy 1/4" nuts by the pound for about $2 a pound I think. Get about a half pound and that would probably be enough.

Thanks for the reply, that makes sense. I'll try coins with nuts and bolts. For some reason my mind says the more the easier. I'm tempted to get out there now.

The inside of my gas tank is now spotless. Thanks for all the useful tips. I removed the petcock and put a piece of foil tape 2 by 4 inches 2 blocks the holes off, that way I could shake vigorously and not have to worry about gas spitting.

Glad things are heading in the right direction.

When I got my non-running bike the carb and tank were all gummed up. We got little globs of the stuff with a small screwdriver and wiped it on the counter. We then tried several different chemicals on each glob to see what dissolved it the best.

Mineral spirits was the clear winner!

I recently saw a few globs in the bottom of my tank that the fuel apparently wouldn't dissolve after a 90 mile ride.

I drained it and poured some mineral spirits in and sloshed it around. In less than a minute I drained it and it was gone.

How small are the in line filters you guys are talking about? I tried fitting one today similar to the pic below, but found it too bulky.
http://www.moellermarine.com/sites/moel ... -72dpi.jpg

I had the same problem with junk in the tank causing my float needle to leak. I cleaned my tank twice, but there was still some old vanish coming off. After I made sure the tank was clean. I still installed an inline filter. It is hard to fit one on this bike. Here is how I did it. I will trim the fuel line alittle shorter when my new petcock from a 01 kx 125 comes in.

Steve_K wrote: I will trim the fuel line alittle shorter when my new petcock from a 01 kx 125 comes in.

You will loose your reserve with a KX petcock.

Yes I know. But with a 3 gal tank I don't see the need for it.

Would you rather find out that you are almost out of gas or that you are out of gas ten miles from the truck?

rbates9 wrote:

Steve_K wrote: I will trim the fuel line alittle shorter when my new petcock from a 01 kx 125 comes in.

You will loose your reserve with a KX petcock.

Wait the KDX has a reserve? Or is it just the H series?
My petcock is old and painted so it is difficult to read but it looks like it is just off in the middle and on if you turn it to either side.