Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 10:03 pm Jul 13 2012

So you got a new bike and don't know where to start?
Well look no further you've come to the right place.
I compiled a list of things I believe should be done when you get your new to you bike. :supz:

Note: if you're new to the KDX, you ought to know this:

A: 220 owners: sorry but you must replace the stock piston, they WILL grenade.
"But, but,...I ride it gently"
it doesn't matter.
"But, but,...it only has 1 hour on it.
IT DOES NOT MATTER.
They will unexpectedly break with NO warning.

Don't believe me...go there:
viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12419
and there:
viewtopic.php?f=77&t=11380
You've been forewarned. :butthead:

you will need
manual + torque wrench are strongly recommended
gasket kit: $19.99
piston kit: $126.99
wrist pin bearing: $12.99
coolant
total: about $160

B: a few things to watch out for when doing a top end (200 and 220 alike)
To remove the cylinder, you need to take apart the kips actuator.
Before going hulk on the nut holding the "claw" (16085; 782296 $69.30):
Warning #1 You MUST support the shaft (13234A: SHAFT-COMP,GOVERNOR 768521 $67.77) when removing the 6 mm nut (92015A; 858088 $2.92).
Warning #2 This nut is left threaded (opposite of what it usually is)
If you don't, you will weaken the (13236) LEVER-COMP,GOVERNOR (768746) $8.26, if that part breaks it could destroy your clutch basket and other main gears
viewtopic.php?t=5017
pictures are missing but this explains what else could go wrong when the pin breaks...(ask me how I know :roll: )

OK, now back to topic, bare minimum maintenance:

1: replace tranny oil
2: put fresh gas with your favorite oil at your preferred gas/oil ratio
3: check air filter: clean and oil accordingly
4: check brakes (play and shape of pads/disk)
5: go ride

Now that you got that 1st ride out of your system, time for some more in depth maintenance:

6: get a manual: that's your best tool (along KDXrider :wink: ) to keep your bike running and save LOTS of $$$$.
7: put a fresh plug
8: clean carb.
9: jet your bike. Not only is it good for the bike, it's the cheapest, easiest thing to do to get the most out of your bike... "free power" :supz: .
Nobody else but YOU can do the work (unless you can pay someone to do it...)

OK, I can hear it already :roll:

"But, but,... I don't know how to"...
"But, but,... it's hard"...

Ok now pull up your big boy pants, quit your cryin and go there :kick: :
viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156

10: inspect all levers (clutch and brakes) and adjust for play
11: inspect all bearings, clean and grease them. (wheel and most importantly all swing arm + linkage bearings)
Pay particular close attention to the bottom shock linkage, they are prone to rust and fail much faster than any other.
Note: Using good quality grease will save you time and money in the long run.
I use to get cheap bearing grease from the local hardware store; it does the job fine but after getting some real bearing grease (like bel ray) I'll never go back. That stuff last twice as long and is actually pretty hard to get off.
12: replace for oil.

13: set up your suspension:
viewforum.php?f=102

Got a bit more dough? Here's what I'd do next:

14: get the proper spring for your weight, it will make a world of difference.
It'll make the ride more enjoyable, safer, improve your confidence and skill set. You will get faster... drum roll please.....: faster :lol:

15: get your shock rebuild (or rebuild it yourself) or at lease a nitrogen charge.

more later.
please add whatever you think should be on this list.
I'll try to have a complete list stickied later.
I think this would be beneficial to all the new member...
thx

gear box OIL:

Most use a full quart. (+it quiets down the "KIPS rattle")
10W30 and 10W40 car oil works fine.
Same goes for motorcycle specific oil, just be sure it is for wet clutch use.

I've found that some brand work better than others (same weight), so you may have to try and see what works for you.
It may take 1-2 oil change to see the real difference from 1 brand to another.

DO NOT use any oil that says 'energy conserving' on the EPA tag on the back of the bottle. It has friction modifier and will mess up your clutch.
Some like ATF type F (Automatic Transmission Fluid) and swear by it, some hate it.

I change the oil quite often like every 4-5 rides (oil is rather cheap), some do it once a season, it's whatever works for you.
I think it depends on the type of oil you use and how hard your ride the clutch. I can tell when it's time for a change on mine.

next: some CLUTCH inspection and work...to be continued...
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Re: Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I sta

Postby Julien D » 02:31 pm Jul 20 2012

Type F is what is generally recommended. There is some speculation that Dex Merc may not play well with gaskets and seals, but some have used it without problem.
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 03:39 pm Jul 20 2012

A few info about PIPE:
FMF
k30: woods / torque : diameter: more low end vs stock
K35: desert / rev: diameter: more top end vs stock
Fatty?
Some reported they were stamped incorrectly at some point. Check diameter to b sure, the bigger is the torque pipe.

PROCIRCUIT:
In between fmf torque and rev: a bit more everywhere

BILLS PIPE
rare
Name?

dg pipe
rare
Name?

Any other pipe?

Silencer aftermarket vs stock: no performance addition. The great debate. :roll: (Flame suit on :lol: ;)
Weight saving?
Stock:
Fmf:
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Re: Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I sta

Postby diymirage » 05:58 pm Jul 20 2012

i run a bills pipe and it is DEFINATLY an imporvement over stock
(anything that drops 50 pounds of dead weight of must be right?)
not sure how it compares to the other pipes out there but i would gues it is in the procircuit range, a bit more power everywhere

i had a hard time getting it to properly fit (had to cut an inch of the tail end)
newbbewb wrote:DIYmirage has it right.


-1996 KDX 200 woods weapon (converted to 99 green body)
-1996 KDX 200 plated street toy (barney edition)
-2003 Yamaha TTR125-L (wifeys bike)
-1997 KDX 220 project bike
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Re: Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I sta

Postby Racing220 » 10:54 pm Jul 21 2012

After lifting weight for a few years, when I took apart my 220, I thought this weird little clawed nut was jammed. I snapped the governor in half, Please listen because in the end my 250$ build was like 350$
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 11:21 am Jul 22 2012

PRE MIX OIL:

1. pic a good synthetic oil
2. choose a ratio you wanna use 1:25 to 1:50 (Most use 1:40)
3.jet your bike accordingly viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 11:25 am Jul 22 2012

RICH VS LEAN

This does NOT relate to the amount of oil in your mix. (well not directly).
It relates to the ratio GAS / AIR
So, too rich does NOT mean too much oil, it means too much gas for the amount of air it's getting.
If you have more gas than air, then not all the gas is going to burn (think of a candle light, what happens when you close the top? the flame dies out (lack of air) and it makes a black soot, carbon deposit because it cannot do a complete burn)
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 12:12 pm Jul 22 2012

SPOOGE / DRIPS:

There's usually a lot of misconception about spooge, what it is, what causes it...

First, a little is somewhat normal. keeps the kips lubed up...
(please someone correct me if I'm wrong)

Second, no, it's not too much oil in your pre mix or "un burnt" oil...
This is in fact unburnt FUEL mix (not just the oil part of the premix :roll:) caused by a too rich condition in one (or more) of your circuits.

Jet your bike properly and DO NOT jet your bike by looking at the tail end of your pipe!
Follow the guideline: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
The silencer can hold LOTS of spooge, so you could be way too lean on your bike and still see spooge dropping out...

Remember the candle light example from earlier, well this is the same on your bike, not enough air (or too much gas) = partial burn = lots of black carbon + unburnt fuel = spooge
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby KDXrider1989 » 12:52 am Jul 24 2012

TC-W3 2-stroke oil is for OUTBOARD / MARINE engines which usually don't have powervalves and won't guarantee protection for the KIPS
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Re: Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I sta

Postby KDXrider1989 » 01:00 am Jul 24 2012

another thing I'd like to add to the list of things to do with a "new" bike would be cleaning / lubing / adjusting the drive chain. I always do this before I go out for a ride. Checking tire pressure could be another one
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 07:41 am Jul 26 2012

WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL AND MAINTENANCE:

viewtopic.php?f=77&t=3527&p=33581&hilit=wheel#p33581
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 07:13 pm Oct 23 2012

CASE SPLITTING
big thanks to rbates9
viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12241
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 12:59 am Nov 05 2012

CLUTCH fix/repair/maintenance
I hope it's ok to post link to another site, delete if it's no good.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/824749 ... to-fix-it/

Edit: as of 6/28/13 the link appears to be dead. i can't find it on their site. will need to do some more digging.
simply put:
file as little as possible, you just want to remove the groove and no more to make it flat and smooth.
Take your time, drink a few while doing it, it's very soft material so go easy.
Once it's flat, use very fine sandpaper to smooth it out and almost polish it. You don't want any notch or rough surfaces, the smoother the better. do the same on your plates.
Check plates clearance and spring while you're at it, now is a good time to replace springs ( very cheap)
FYI, filing the grooves will increase the play in your clutch, i.e the groove will come back eventually, the more material you remove the faster it'll happen.
This will stop the creeping of your clutch and prolong the clutch life, it ain't gonna last forever but it will buy you some time!
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 10:37 pm Nov 05 2012

KDX LIGHTING STATOR REWIND HOW TO
big thanks to Slick_Nick

viewtopic.php?f=77&t=10226&p=97107&hilit=Stator#p97107
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Re: Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I sta

Postby Actionman » 08:44 pm Jun 16 2013

This is an awesome thread! I did everything on the list that I could, and a little more. I checked swingarm and linkage bearings for grease or corrosion, and the steering stem bearings as well. Found one bearing missing 2 rollers. New bearings can be cross matched for 3.95 at www.vxb.com. I wouldn't trust those Chinese bearings for engine internals, but I've used them in a linkage and they're pretty robust for that application.
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 05:26 pm Jun 24 2013

KX kick start
by Slick_Nick

viewtopic.php?f=77&t=10228
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 02:51 pm Jul 23 2013

want to SM your bike?
Why not.

viewtopic.php?f=77&t=14204
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 06:57 pm Jul 23 2013

02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 09:46 am Jul 24 2013

Can't get the tank off?
The nuts just kept turning?


This is one way I've heard some members tried with success.
With a screwdriver on your drill: spin the bolt, the plastic of the tank will eventually melt around the nut and you'll be able to separate nut from bolt, then pull the tank out.
Once the tank is removed, you can epoxy the nut back in the tank (some cleaning of the "melted" area might be necessary).
Good to go!

or try this (thanks Tedh98)
viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16438

side note: I'd make sure to empty and degas the tank if you use the above method...
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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Newb thread: got a new (to you) bike? where should I start?

Postby scheckaet » 09:11 am Aug 15 2013

vibration isolators

viewtopic.php?f=77&t=14503
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb :prayer:
DRZ 400 SM :supz:

bike build: viewtopic.php?f=111&t=8245&hilit=bike+stable
bike profile viewtopic.php?p=30709#30709

newb info: viewtopic.php?f=77&t=12457#p117919
jetting guide: viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1156
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