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i have been reading they are pretty good?
anyone had any experience of them?

i did try to order one,for my 2001 220r, but there was a problem at the checkout,not sure if thats because i was asking them to ship to england uk?
i emailed them about this,but unfortunately got no reply........

so my next question is.........would one of you lovely gents in the usa order one and post it on to me?
i would happily pay you up front via paypal.
best regards
john

consensus is save your money...

I have one that I have removed and installed a few times. It came with the bike so I don't know what it cost but all it is is just what the picture shows, a about 1/4" thick piece of aluminium pipe that goes in the exhaust port. I think that it does help with the bottom end as they claim but not really a huge difference IMHO. I would guess that about 3 or 4 extra copper sealing washers would do about the same thing.

I have one somewhere. Made the pipe leak more, added a bit down low, but even more noticeable was the loss of power up top. I didn't like it at all.

any gain down low was not worth the over rev that it killed for me.

thanks for the info guys,
i think i will give it a miss.
best regards
john

Still using mine, I need all the low end I can get for riding around here

If you want to try one get a piece of aluminum pipe that will fit in the exhaust port and cut about a 1/4" piece of it off then put the pipe back on and try it out. If you don't like it then take it back out. It does seem to take away from the top but it does add some to the bottom. It just comes down to how you ride. Personally I don't get much past 3/4 throttle very much so the loss at the top doesn't much matter to me.

i've heard a flywheel weight is not a bad option to get a bit more low down...

FWW will add tractability, but not change the actual power output of the engine (can't see a FWW on a dyno). The TQ ring adds what is knows as 'flex' to the header joint. The straight section of header before the diverging cone is a length determined by the engineer of the engine, and the pipe. This length only has a alight area for adjustment. Longer will move the 'meat' of the power delivery lower by x rpm, and you will lose x rpm up top. It is a direct trade off. Opposite if you were to shorten it. Shortening it will add heat, BTW.

I don't know why you'd want an exhaust ring on a 220 - they hit pretty hard if setup right. I had a flywheel weight on my previous 220 because it spun the wheel too easily right off of idle - and it helped quite a bit. My current 220 is running the larger 200 carb which reduces that low end hit so this bike doesn't need the extra flywheel weight.

I felt the exhaust ring was worth the money for the 200 - added some torque and I didn't notice any loss on top but I'm running a woods pipe on the 200 so overrev is a waste anyway - every bike is jetted and otherwise setup differently, so not everyone gets the same results.
As others have said, you can make your own pretty easily...

The whole theory here is that the length of the header pipe before the expansion chamber is the
area to fine tune in 1/4" increments to move the power around. The longer , the more bottom end.
The shorter, the more top end. To each their own if they think it's worth trying. Remove the copper
sealing ring and use a little silicone to get the pipe O-rings to seal better.

this thread is almost 2 years old!

I have one if someone wants to pay shipping and donate $5 to KDX Rider.