Got the Kid a 220

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4Rider
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Got the Kid a 220

Post by 4Rider »

Well, this afternoon we picked up a nice '02 KDX 220 for the kid. Yep, it's the one I have posted about in past messages. It wasn't any deal, but I did get the seller down to $2500. I think I paid about $150 too much, but in the grand scheme of things I can live with that (lets see, 5 other bikes, a toybox, a one-ton dually to pull everything, multiple sets of riding gear for 4 people......). Unfortunately, I'll probably repeat this process in the not too distant future as soon as the kid blows past his older brother on the XR400.

Thanks to all who offered up advice, pre-purchase check-out checklists (yes, I printed them out and took them with me) and suggestions. Stand by as I'll be asking about accessories and inevitably asking about maintenance and repairs. We plan on using the new KDX heavily the next few weeks so I should have a good read on what it needs.

Here are a few photos. It was getting dark, so the detail may not be the best

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Here is the wifes bike:

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And the older kids bike (hand me down from dad):

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And my bikes as well:

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Any recommendations for the perfect 2-stroke oil for the KDX? He won't be riding it at the top of the RPMs so I need something that doesn't foul too readily. Also, and recommendations for the tranny oil? How about oil change intervals on the KDX?

Again, thanks for all the input.

Mark
'02 KDX 220, '06 KTM 525 EXC Dualsport (CA Plated) '00 KTM 640 Adventure R (for sale), '04 KTM 400 EXC, '96 Honda XR400R Dualsport (CA Plated), Were not lost, we're right here......
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Post by m0rie »

Those all look like nice clean bikes. Looks like your family has fun. :supz:

-Maurice
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Post by Indawoods »

Nice bikes Mark... and that's a great looking KDX! Kudos....

AMSOIL is a great premix oil, I use the Interceptor type. Made exclusively for clean power valves. If you check their website it looks pretty impressive. It is mailorder only though. Before that I was using the Mobil 1 MX2T premix with great results. It is marketed as something else now and don't recall the name.

What ever premix you use in the KDX... it can benefit from full synthetic oil since it's cylinder components are coated for low wear. You should get several years out of it before a topend if you keep the air filter clean. And judging by your stable I'd say you proly got a handle on that!

Tranny oil is subjective just like premix but Some use ATF some the recommended 10-40W and some use Bel-Ray gearsaver. Personally I use Mobil 1 Gold cap 15-50W and whatever you use, most run a full quart in the tranny. This quiets the tranny down a bit and as far as I know... just about everyone does it.

What does your boy weigh? It's very important to get the suspension up to snuff since the front springs are only good up to around 135#'s or so. The rear shock is good for up to 200#'s so there is usually not an issue with it.

One last thing... has the piston been replaced with a weisco? It only takes a couple of hours and this is the most important thing that needs to be done besides the manditory grease job that Kawasaki seems to think isn't important to sell their bikes.....

Indawoods :wink:
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Post by KDXGarage »

CONGRATULATIONS! Considering that buying a new KDX220R, plus FMF pipe and FMF spark arrestor would have cost you $4,500, I think $2,500 is a good deal.

A KDX is not too picky about oil changes, but like any oil, the sooner the better.

Do keep in mind the OEM piston reliability, bearing greasing and 100 other things we must have hit you up with by now. :grin:

Keep us updated, and again, congratulations!
Thank you for participating on kdxrider.net. :bravo:
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Post by jafo »

I don't think you got hurt to bad. You got the bike and I'll bet your boy is in heaven right now. Looking at the pics, thats a nice bike. It looks like one of the more easy expensive mods is alraedy done, the pipe and spark arrester. The prices on the pipe just went up this spring over last years prices. I payed around $180 for my FMF pipe and then they shot up to $200 and over. The spark arrester looks good too, you can get packing for those and just repack it if it needs it. It looks just like the one I have on my bike.

As Jason stated, make sure the piston gets addressed. That was the first mod I did on my bike. Got all the stuff from Rocky mountain catalog. i think it cost me around $145 for the parts and did it myself. Gave me piece of mind.

Good look'n bike, I think you did pretty good myself. :supz:

Jon.
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Post by KDXGarage »

OH! You may want to pick up the service manuals for the bike, if it did not come with them, there is a service manual for the 200, plus a supplement manual for the differences between the 200 and 220.

THAT'S the very first mod I would suggest to ANY KDX. :supz:
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Post by KDXer »

The manual god has spoken, now go forth in search of the divine word of Ma Kaw and enlightenment you will find. Just be wary of the orientation of the sub valves in the KIPS as some manuals are printed incorrectly. :mrgreen: Its the right side valves with the groove. It will become apparant when you have to service the KIPS. With any luck your manual will be one of the correct copies. Oh BTW CONGRATULATIONS on the new ride, you'll oops I mean he'll love it... :partyman:
Last edited by KDXer on 09:16 am Aug 13 2005, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by jafo »

Don't worry, they only send those misprinted copies to Australia, mainly the Sydney area. :lol: j/k

I'll have to check my copy out to see what it says.

I think you can pick a brand new copy up from "Buy Kawasaki.com". The maual I got from my dealer had both suppliments in the back of it. I don't know if the Kawasaki sites manuals have this or not. May be better to get one from the dealer.

Jon. :wink:
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Post by KDXer »

My manuals stated orientation is correct my son, I'm guessing it's a northern hemispherian issue...
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Post by jafo »

:blink: :mrgreen:
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Post by 4Rider »

indawoods: The kid is about 135# right now, so the fork springs should be OK for a while. The forks will undoubtedly be ready for service by midwinter, so I'll probably look at upping the springs then. The motor is totally stock, so I'll have to look at changing out the piston sometime soon.

Regarding the swingarm greasing issue: has anyone drilled for and installed a grease zerk to make regreasing easy? I haven't really looked at the swingarm closely to see if there is room or a place for a zerk.

Jason: Is the Kawasaki manual the way to go, or is there a better after-market publication?

Jon: What are the kawasaki sites manuals you mentioned? Assuming they are an on-line manual, could you send me a link to find them please? Some type of on-line manual would be helpful until I can get a hard copy by snail mail.

Has anyone tried the IMS desert tank made for the KDX? I'd really like to get a little more than a 70-mile range per tank. The IMS is listed as having 3.4 gallon capacity, which I believe is about 1/2 gallon more than stock.

Mark
'02 KDX 220, '06 KTM 525 EXC Dualsport (CA Plated) '00 KTM 640 Adventure R (for sale), '04 KTM 400 EXC, '96 Honda XR400R Dualsport (CA Plated), Were not lost, we're right here......
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Post by KDXGarage »

The OEM Kawasaki manual is the ONLY manual made for it.

The manuals are chepaer at http://www.ronayers.com. I think the OEM 200 manual is part number:

99924-1181-08

I can't remember the 220 supplement off the top of my head, but it is on the ronayers part fiche probably. I think it ends in 57. The very last number is the revision number. For example, the 200 manual started out at 99924-1181-01 for the 1995 KDX200, then got revised from there as more models were released.
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Post by skipro3 »

Some KDX mods you will be performing in the near future:
1. Remove airbox lid to allow better breathing. Some guys just drill extra holes in the lid, others just toss the whole lid.
2. Jet the carb. Learn how to read the plug from a WOT chop if you don't know already. The 220 runs very lean jets compared to a 200. For example, riding at 6000 feet, I've got a 140 main, 38 pilot, and CEK needle on the 3rd clip.
3. Get some decent tires before the kid learns to hate the KDX from crashing on it. I run a M12 Michellen front and a M5B on the rear. I bet you know what tires already work for your area though.
4. Set the rear shock sag correctly for the rider and adjust the compression for a fairly soft setting.

Lot's of other things like bark busters, skid plate, aftermarket reeds, air filters, etc. Also, there's lots of posts about that stuff here, so I suspect you will be using the search feature quite a bit. Or your son will be.

BTW some really neat toys you have there. It's great that you do things as a family. It's cheaper than family counseling later in life!! Ha!!
Jerry

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Post by Indawoods »

>|<>QBB<
4Rider wrote:Regarding the swingarm greasing issue: has anyone drilled for and installed a grease zerk to make regreasing easy? I haven't really looked at the swingarm closely to see if there is room or a place for a zerk.
When I tore mine apart for greasing last winter I found that the bearings have seals on both sides of the bearings making it impossible to add a single grease zerk. You may however be able to add one to both sides over the bearing but it is not hard to take apart and you would be best served by inspecting the bearings anyway.
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"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
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Post by Colorado Mike »

4rider, from the looks of your toy inventory, If you get a hankering to adopt anybody, let me know. :lol:
Mike

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4Rider
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Post by 4Rider »

>|<>QBB<
Indawoods wrote:>|<>QBB<
4Rider wrote:Regarding the swingarm greasing issue: has anyone drilled for and installed a grease zerk to make regreasing easy? I haven't really looked at the swingarm closely to see if there is room or a place for a zerk.
When I tore mine apart for greasing last winter I found that the bearings have seals on both sides of the bearings making it impossible to add a single grease zerk. You may however be able to add one to both sides over the bearing but it is not hard to take apart and you would be best served by inspecting the bearings anyway.
While I totally agree that it is best to have a look at the bearing come grease time, I may try to figure out how to put in a zerk or two. With all the bikes to maintain I'd like to have the option to just squirt in a little clean grease occasionally and only have to tear it apart once a year or so. The boys are starting to assist with maintenance, but I'm not ready to let them have at the swingarm or suspension just yet.

If all goes to plan, in a couple of years the kids will take over all of the bike toybox and truck maintenance, have well paying jobs and assume financial responsibility for buying bikes, parts and gas, and will plan and provide all of the logistics to take me to all of the cool place to ride. I'm thinking a cabin up by Skipro and a palapa just outside Moab would be in order as well.

To answer Colorado Mikes question: A while ago I was considering try to adopt this under-privledged 18 year-old Swedish MotoGP Umbrella Girl but my wife had some irrational objection to the idea and I gave up. Go figure!

Now, back from my vacation from reality.................. I'm headed to the parts place for tranny oil and some synthetic pre-mix per Indawoods recommendations.

Mark
'02 KDX 220, '06 KTM 525 EXC Dualsport (CA Plated) '00 KTM 640 Adventure R (for sale), '04 KTM 400 EXC, '96 Honda XR400R Dualsport (CA Plated), Were not lost, we're right here......
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Post by m0rie »

>|<>QBB<
4Rider wrote:>|<>QBB<
Indawoods wrote:>|<>QBB<
4Rider wrote:Regarding the swingarm greasing issue: has anyone drilled for and installed a grease zerk to make regreasing easy? I haven't really looked at the swingarm closely to see if there is room or a place for a zerk.
When I tore mine apart for greasing last winter I found that the bearings have seals on both sides of the bearings making it impossible to add a single grease zerk. You may however be able to add one to both sides over the bearing but it is not hard to take apart and you would be best served by inspecting the bearings anyway.
While I totally agree that it is best to have a look at the bearing come grease time, I may try to figure out how to put in a zerk or two. With all the bikes to maintain I'd like to have the option to just squirt in a little clean grease occasionally and only have to tear it apart once a year or so. The boys are starting to assist with maintenance, but I'm not ready to let them have at the swingarm or suspension just yet.
Mark take a look at this thread: http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.ph ... k&&start=0
We had a pretty good discussion about grease zerks.

-Maurice
1989 KDX 200
2007 TTR-50E
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Post by skipro3 »

I'm an under-privledged 18 year-old Swedish MotoGP Umbrella Girl. Adopt me, send me money and I will send you my photos.
Jerry

I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
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Post by Indawoods »

That's still a great writeup Maurice! :wink:
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Post by parker72001 »

4rider
congratulations and the new kdx. :grin: i just got a kdx 220 last year and about a week ago i greased the swingarm and linkage. other than a oil change, i have never worked on a motorcycle in my life. the manual walked me right through it. after doing it once i could do it again in about a half an hour (took about 2 hours the first time). worked slow and read every step. i'm getting new front springs soon but i weigh about 175 lbs., your kid should be good for quite a while. as for the piston, i still haven't got one, i will this winter. i have my fingers crossed that nothing happened until then. and the manuals, i ordered them from my dealer the 200 one was about $30 and the 220 supplement was about $10. in my opinion the supplement is not needed, the 200 manual tells you everything you need. Hope this helps and congrats again on the new bike :supz:
-Parker
Parker Woods, 20 years old,
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