do i need a special tool

parker72001 · Post by **parker72001** » 08:35 am Aug 09 2005

i finally started to grease my swingarm and linkage, got as far as getting the rear wheel and every other thing that is in the way out. but now do i need this tool they call "oil seal and bearing remover" or "bearing driver set". i haven't even seen the bearing yet. is it possible to get them out and put them back in without the use of these tools, please, i hope so. any info would help greatly!!!

-Parker

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 09:59 am Aug 09 2005

JASON !!!!!!!

He'll help ya out. I know he will.

parker72001 · Post by **parker72001** » 10:14 am Aug 09 2005

someone please answer me, please

-parker

m0rie · Post by **m0rie** » 10:28 am Aug 09 2005

You can remove and grease most of the bearings without any special tools, but it is helpful to have a bearing press or make up one out of some all thread, sockets and a couple of washers and nuts to pull it all together.

-Maurice

parker72001 · Post by **parker72001** » 10:32 am Aug 09 2005

i don't have to actually take the rear spring off do i. it can be attached while i grease the bearings right, sorry for all the questions but i don't want to mess anything up.

parker

Post by **KDXGarage** » 11:03 am Aug 09 2005

To grease the bearings, no special tools are needed. You should be able to pull the seals off with your finger or maybe a careful screwdriver / wooden dowel. The sleeves SHOULD just slide out of the bearing. The sleeve is the round tube looking thing inside each bearing. You will be taking out the sleeves, but leaving the needle bearings inside each setting.

On the shock, there is just the rubber bushing insert in the top. Just put a little grease in the metal insert in the rubber insert. Otherwise, just set the shock off to the side when cleaning the linkage.

KD, don't you ever clean and grease your linkage? Don't they print a manual in the Australian language?

Parker, if any of that doesn make sense, ask another question. Make sure, not make a mess.

EDIT: The tool with the greatest chance of being considered special would be a torque wrench. You may not want the bolts to fall out due to under-tightening (one of my previous joys in life) or to break the bolt or strip it due to overtightening (another joy...).

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 11:04 am Aug 09 2005

You have to take off neither the spring nor the shock. The top shock mount isn't something that requires service. It's a rubber bushing, not a bearing.

**edit** That's an unfair generalization. Might as well take a look at it the first time. You will find it holds up well over time. You will have the bottom (unitrack knuckle) off a number of times and the top shock will be fine.

As Jason said, though...do check it. You will get a feel for what it requires maintenance-wise.
**edit**

With the pull rods (dog bones..suspension linkage plates)off, unbolt the bottom of the shock from the unitrack knuckle, the unitrack knuckle from the frame, and you have a lot of the suspension (knuckle with associated bearings in three places) in your hand.

You will need to remove the swingarm to more easily reach the bearings the unitrack bolts to..you will have to remove the swingarm anyway to get TO the swingarm pivot bearings.

No need to remove the bearings to clean and regrease. Do that only if you have to replace something.

What does the bottom shock mount bearing/sleeve look like?

Take considerable care in putting the pull rods back on. The oem Kawi bolts are a tad short. Make sure the bolt shoulders are IN the pull rod holes (as opposed to AGAINST the hole edge). After the assy is greased, the seals are a bit 'fat' (full of grease) so the already-too-short bolts get...well...shorter, so to speak.

Congratulations on tackling the job! You are far better off doing this sort of thing yourself 'cuz it needs to be done quite often. Might as well learn more about your bike in the process.

parker72001 · Post by **parker72001** » 11:27 am Aug 09 2005

no need to take them out? so once i see the bearings just jam some bel-ray in there and wipe the excess off?
parker

Post by **KDXGarage** » 11:29 am Aug 09 2005

I'll get the camera.

m0rie · Post by **m0rie** » 11:32 am Aug 09 2005

I was spacing the special tool section...was thinking if you wanted to remove/replace the bearings, not grease them. Torque wrenches are good thing to have. At least until you get your torque elbow calibrated.

-Maurice

parker72001 · Post by **parker72001** » 11:37 am Aug 09 2005

i'm not at home right now jason, but i have some pics in the gallery if you want to look at them, i'm at work and just trying to get everything right, computer here is much faster. i hope i'm not being a bother.

-Parker

Post by **KDXGarage** » 11:46 am Aug 09 2005

No bother. We'll just use your pictures.

Have you removed the three large bolts and nuts pictured? Do you have the shock's lower mounting bolt removed?

You don't have to loosen the rear wheel to clean all the bearings, though it would make it easier. You will of course, need to remove the swingarm to get to the swingarm bearings.

FLAKDX · Post by **FLAKDX** » 11:52 am Aug 09 2005

parker72001 wrote:no need to take them out? so once i see the bearings just jam some bel-ray in there and wipe the excess off?
parker

LOL basiclly YES

Don't worry about it to much Parker once you get the seals off and the inner sleeves out you'll see quite clearly what your dealing with. Smear a bunch of good thick globs of Belray waterproof grease in there and reasemble. It's pretty simple once you get going. Just check to make sure all the needle bearings are still in place and not falling out. If they are then you have bigger problems

and you'll be asking more questions

My suggestion is if your doing your linkage go ahead and do the 2 swing arm bearings as well. When I did mine it was just as dry as the rest of the bearings in the linkage. Factory Kawasaki doesn't believe in liberal amounts of Grease

parker72001 · Post by **parker72001** » 11:56 am Aug 09 2005

none of those are removed, took these pics right before i went inside. is the shocks lower mounting bolt right below the 1125 on the dogbone next to overflow hoses, the linkage bearings are right inside those bolts, correct? i have to take the swingarm completely off or can it just look open to grease the bearings? thanks, this is a big help. sorry i don't know anything about bikes, yet.
-parker

Post by **KDXGarage** » 12:05 pm Aug 09 2005

No problem on not being sure on this stuff. NO ONE knows everything about dirt bikes, and EVERYONE has to start somewhere.

The three large bolts and nuts need to be removed, plus the shock lower bolt, which is of course at the bottom of the shock, plus the swingarm pivot bolt must all come out to do it properly. Yes, you need to remove the swingarm to properly clean and regrease the swingarm bearings and sleeves. Each bearing has a sleeve inside it which is removeable, but the bearing stays inside the swingarm or linkage piece.

On the three large bolts/nuts pictured, use one wrench to hold the bolt steady while you take off the nut on the other side. Be sure to use the proper tools as you don't want to damage it.

parker72001 · Post by **parker72001** » 12:20 pm Aug 09 2005

what should i use to clean the bearings?

parker72001 · Post by **parker72001** » 12:42 pm Aug 09 2005

i hope the bearings are all right, i only have about 400 miles on the thing, should be fine, we're making a trailer so me and my brother can go up a lot more, trying to get stuff done. this first, then piston, gaskets and some boyeson reeds. just to have so i can put them in when i get my carb and head modded. after that i'll probably have to put new front springs in and then a woods gnarly pipe and turbine core II silencer and i'll be set, not a bad way to spend $600 huh. oh yeah, my first mod, i just ordered a twelve tooth sprocket yesterday, that is all.
parker

FLAKDX · Post by **FLAKDX** » 01:37 pm Aug 09 2005

Parker you shouldn't have to worry about cleaning them. My bike had a few more miles on it then your does and it's 1 year older. They were still very clean inside. The problem was the lack of factory grease, there was hardly any. Just smear the new grease in there on top of the old. it won't hurt anything.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 01:43 pm Aug 09 2005

You can use mineral spirits (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.) and an old toothbrush. Be sure to let them dry before putting in new grease.

No need to worry about how they should look. When you get them taken apart, you will be able to see how they really are.

parker72001 · Post by **parker72001** » 02:06 pm Aug 09 2005

thanks, i should finish tonight!

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do i need a special tool

do i need a special tool