woods pipe low end loss

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Edward Anstett
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woods pipe low end loss

Post by Edward Anstett »

Just buttoned up new FMF woods pipe and am perplexed at outcome. Hard hitting mid throttle with wheelies, but lost the oem tractor lug at idle to quarter . The bike would lug at idle no problem prior to install, now it will stall if throttle not applied.

Purhaps I received a desert pipe by mistake. and was mis-tagged? How can I identify which pipe I have by appearence/measurements?
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rbates9
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Post by rbates9 »

Did you adjust the jetting at all? if not then "Read the jetting guide"!
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Velocity_Stack
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Post by Velocity_Stack »

I asked the same question in my early years "how to tell the difference".

Here's the thread I started and what my woods pipe looks like, mounted on the bike:

http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=
Edward Anstett
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woods pipe low end loss

Post by Edward Anstett »

Thanks for replies. Jetting was addressed before FMF was installed and run with stock pipie[45 pilot/155 main]. Needle left in 3rd position down from top

Air screw was also re-adjusted when FMF was insatalled. Thanks again
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Julien D
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Post by Julien D »

You may want to re-visit your jetting after the new pipe. You may be running a bit leaner than it was before.
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Edward Anstett
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Post by Edward Anstett »

. Perhaps a 42 pilot jet might be next. Removed the snorkel along time ago with fresh UNI. I miss my tractor pull.

According to posts, the very top of the woods pipe should have more distance/space from the very bottom of the plastic radiator guard, as opposed to the desert pipe having a tighter fit. I measured the gap at 1.5 inches with my "woods" pipe. Does that sound correct?

Thanks to all for input.
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scheckaet
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Post by scheckaet »

bet the jetting is off, follow the tutorial on how to jet properly, it''l tell you what circuit is off.
4vman1
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Post by 4vman1 »

I feel the same way about mine. With the pipe off the bike, the upper mount has a stamp on it. If it says K-35, then you have the "woods" pipe. I think the "desert" is K-30.
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Julien D
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Post by Julien D »

FMF is notorious for mis-stamping those pipes. Just saying.
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fuzzy
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Post by fuzzy »

Yeah, pretty sure morning and lunchtime bong-hits are the norm at the factory :partyman:
'91 KDX 200 Project $300 KDX
'95 KDX 200 Project $600 KDX
'94 WR 250 Always a project
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treelimb
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Post by treelimb »

>|<>QBB<
fuzzy wrote:Yeah, pretty sure morning and lunchtime bong-hits are the norm at the factory :partyman:


:shock
Surely not! that was a good reply though!
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rbates9
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Post by rbates9 »

They are from "SoCal" :lol:
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Julien D
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Post by Julien D »

Seriously, I would not be surprised in the least.
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kawagumby
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Post by kawagumby »

>|<>QBB<
Edward Anstett wrote:.
According to posts, the very top of the woods pipe should have more distance/space from the very bottom of the plastic radiator guard, as opposed to the desert pipe having a tighter fit. I measured the gap at 1.5 inches with my "woods" pipe. Does that sound correct?

Thanks to all for input.
Yes, what you have is the woods pipe. The rev pipe nearly touches the bottom of the radiator shroud.
As others have said, you may want to fiddle with the jetting - also Jeff Fredette makes a little torque ring that fits between the pipe and the cylinder - it only costs ten bucks or so and it works.

The stock pipes are the grunt kings, but not much else -

;
1994 KDX200, Beta 200rr, yz125, yz250, kx100 modded for adult, gasgas contact 250.
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