Dreaded Clutch Issue

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rbates9
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Post by rbates9 »

A folded rag works very good too. And you don't have to worry if the washer soft enough to not hurt the gears. :wink:
factoryX
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Post by factoryX »

Since we're on this subject, can anyone tell me if clutches are affected by elevation changes? For instance, when I had my atc250r the clutch when engaged would drag when the motor was not running, but at sea level it wouldn't. I live at around 3200ft in central Oregon.
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Edward Anstett
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Post by Edward Anstett »

I switched out with just clutch cover removed, but had to use impact wrench to remove 22mm nut. I too would have used aluminum washer trick, but I think[not positive] it requires removal of right side casing to have better access to the gears to place washer in between.

To re-torque, I pushed kick starter all the way down till it made contact with the foot peg. Strap or clamp the kick start lever/foot peg together and torqued nut to 65lb.

I had heard other gents put bar through rear sprocket with bike in higher gear.

I have no doubt the best method is flywheel holder, or Kawasaki makes a wrench that fits over the four 10mm clutch spring bolts and holds clutch assembly, allowing you to loosen/torque the 22mm clutch hub nut.

Based on others members years of experience...try the other methods first. I am just relaying my own newbie method, Good luck Bart
Edward Anstett
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Post by Edward Anstett »

I don't know if it's relative........but I stumbled upon this;

Density is mass (or weight) per volume. Viscosity is how fast a substance flows through a hole driven by a given force (usually gravity).
A substance like mercury can be very high density and low viscosity.

A substance like whipped cream can be very low density and very high viscosity.

One of the confusions is that viscosity is not changed by altitude (pressure). Even though the atmosphere's density is extremely low at high altitude, the viscosity is about the same as at sea level.
bart
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Post by bart »

I got an air (impact) gun for the job. That should spin the nut off faster than the engine spins.

Anything else I should look at when I got the clutch apart?
stipud
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Post by stipud »

crap...in my haste i started a new thread concerning just this...
i, like edward can't get the plates out until i remove the 22mm nut...which is not a problem...the problem is i cant get the bloody nut off!
i just want to check that it's not left hand thread or anything?
it's not that im stipud, i just can't spell!
KarlP
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Post by KarlP »

I have seen numerous dirt bike clutch removal videos on youtube, and they are in fact as described by KarlP and Juliend!!But my 2004 seems different. The hub/driven/drive plates/pressure plate are all held in the clutch basket by the 22mm nut/washer. My sons 2008 KLX140l has same configuation.

I would not mind seeing some pictires of that. Maybe an aftermarket clutch set up?
'08 KTM200xc
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
Edward Anstett
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Post by Edward Anstett »

Triple checked my cyclepedia manual for 2004 kdx 2004. This clutch setup is identical to my sons KLX 140L...and his manual also reads the same.

Unlike so many "other dirt bikes" the pressure plate is in the back...so removing the clutch spring bolts /holder only reveals the clutch hub with splines[the splines face inward toward the transmission]. This HUb is held on by 22mm nut/washer and sandwiches the unit[hub,plates,spring plate, seat and pressure plate together. Once the 22mm bolt...I mean nut... is removed, the unit slides right out of the clutch basket.

You need an impact wrench. HB freight cheapie did the trick. I wish I knew how to post pics. Picture says a thousand....... 22mm nut turns lefty loosey

For the doubting Thomases;

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_ye ... lies/34910

Clutch spring bolts off. Spring holder off. Springs off. What's left? 22mm nut/washer that secures clutch hub and aaallllllllllll the parts in between.
KarlP
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Post by KarlP »

I guess you are correct. I don't remember having to struggle with that nut every time I changed around friction discs, but it sure looks like you must.

XR400 friction discs area a nice alternative to OEM, by the way.
'08 KTM200xc
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
stipud
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Post by stipud »

got the nut off with a better impact wrench, but more importantly solved the dreaded clutch issue...
filed the worn in notches out of my basket and flipped the plates cos they're a bit beat up on the edges and it's all good...am using atf f typr too now...no more stalling or lurching...
obviously i'll need a new cluch soon but if i can get a few more miles out then great!
thanks for this site...
i don't know how to attach photos either...sorry...
it's not that im stipud, i just can't spell!
Edward Anstett
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Post by Edward Anstett »

Yeah, I filed mine too....bout 2mm. Will have to change basket soon enough. Weisco or Hanson or other suggestions are welcome.

I actually had listed order wrong...its Hub,seat,spring,drive/driven plates,and pressure plate....but idea is the same. Dam nut removal.
bart
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Post by bart »

Wow, glad I posted up this thread. Replaced my clutch last sunday and it doesn't seem to be failing to fully disengage anymore.

We just used an air gun to remove the hub nut. We weren't quite sure about the 2 judder springs (big hoops) until I did some research. It's easy to forget where the small washers go in the assembly. Otherwise pretty easy. On reassembly my dad had me made sure I evenly distributed the pressure on the 4 bolts holding the spring retainer plate. I did this by hitting each bolt in a circle maybe half turn at a time.

We were also confused because the top (closer) plate was fitted into the grooves on the top of the basket. The notches on the top plate were not lined up with the others, instead fitted into the big notches at the top of the basket. In the pics we looked up, the notches appeared to be all lined up. Anyone seen the top plate installed like this was?

Pic coming
Edward Anstett
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Post by Edward Anstett »

Also ...make sure the clutch hub washer is in convex position before securing 22mm nut over it.

Picture will help explain your point.
Thryago
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Dreaded Clutch Issue

Post by Thryago »

Just purchased a used 2004 220r. I noted on my first oil change, the oil level was low in the sight glass. I measured the drained oil and only drained 350cc, user manual calls for 650ml! So my first thought was the PO had the incorrect amount. When I drained the oil, I will add that it was not on the kickstand, but on a bike stand, rear wheel off the ground. I let the oil completely drain. I was more than a little surprised when I could only re-fill 300ml of oil in the crankcase, while the bike remained on the stand, to bring the level between the lower and upper mark on the sight glass. Far short of the recommended 650ml. I started the bike, engaged several gear shifts, and the oil came right back up to the lower and upper marks. What gives?? My first thought is that I could not have drained all of the oil from the bike. Any thoughts. What am I missing?
PS I know I need to pick up a service manual.
Thanks so much in advance for any help on this topic.
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