200# guys Shock settings?

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KDXGarage
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Post by KDXGarage »

Here is the way I do it. Maybe this will let you know where I am coming form on asking questions about how you are doing it.

When you get it up on a workstand (with both wheels off the ground), take a measurement from the rear axle to a point on the fender right above the axle.

Then take the bike off the stand and stand on the pegs (measuring it while seated is less reliable as you move around some during multiple measurements) in full riding gear, your normal amount of tools, fuel, etc. Have someone pull up on the rear end about an inch and let it ease back down, then measure the distance between the axle and that same point. Do the same thing, but get the assistant to push down an inch and let it ease back up, then measure. Get the average of those two measurements. The averaging takes care of most any drag related measurement error in the linkage. That distance should be 100mm. If it is not, then loosen the preload locknut and adjust the adjusting ring until you get it to 100mm.

After you get it to 100mm, pick up the back of the bike and then set it back down. Pull up/ease down / measure then push down/ease up/measure and average to get the sag measurement of the bike under its own weight. This should be in the 20mm - 25mm range if the shock spring is of the correct rate. Less than that = you need a stiffer spring. More than that means you need a softer spring.

By 20mm - 25mm, I mean it should measure 20mm - 25mm less than the measurement you took while the bike was up on the workstand.

I think that is how it all goes. :grin:

The enduro was in Laurel. It was the 2003 Tiger Creek Enduro.

Check those measurements to see if there is any error there. I'll send you a PM about service, or you can just e-mail me.

Thanks,
Jason
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KarlP
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Post by KarlP »

Morning Jason-
We got busy here all of a sudden.

Sure enough, the bike sags under its own weight about 2". The way I determine that is to use a floor jack under the foot peg area and jack it up until the rear wheel is off the floor. Measure from rear wheel axle to a point on the side cover straight up. Take it off the jack and bounce it a couple of times to get it settled and measure from the same spots.
With my weight on and standing it sinks ~ another 1 7/8" for a total of 3 7/8".

So 3 7/8" is the amount of rear suspension compression from totally unloaded, rear wheel off the ground, to compressed due to riders weight.

What can I say?
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'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
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Post by KDXGarage »

No need to bounce it, as that might bring linkage drag into play. It's hard to say anything further without seeing it in person, but if it is OK with you, then that is the main thing.
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Post by KarlP »

Hate to resurect an old post, but sometimes that's the way to go to get all the background.
Unless someone can talk me out of it, I'm going to a softer rear spring. I asked around and checked a few things. I guess what happened is that when they were handing out springs they said "Hey! give that guy a stiff one!" Lucky me.
I also checked my weight with all my gear on and I'm right at 180 lb.

On clickers, here is what I found:
Date comp/rebound opinion*
7/31/05 10/4 Boingy
8/1/05 12/5 No Good
8/1/05 12/7 Better
8/7/05 14/6 O.K. but gets loose as it heats up
8/26/05 14/7 Harsh but good control

* the opinion is only what I wrote on the card. I had a lot more in mind when I was riding, but I'd be making stuff up if I tried to put it down now.

My major complaint is that the back end is harsh over the small stuff and always has been. I've tried really light clicker settings and found that the back gets real squirrelly if I take off any more compression damping. If I put on less rebound, like 12 clicks out on rebound, it starts "porpoising" and can actually amplify a little root. If I put on more rebound it doesn't take away the harshness but I will start to get more front end washing out.

I think I want to try Light Spring, Heavy Valving?

Karl
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Post by Green Hornet »

1995-2002 "H" Models: The stock spring seems to work well for riders that weigh between 180-210lbs. I recommend replacing the stock spring with a 4.6kg SPRING for riders weighing less than 150lbs, a 4.8kg SPRING for riders weighing between 150-180lbs and a 5.2kg SPRING for riders weighing more than 210lbs. The type of terrain you are riding will determine the correct compression and rebound settings. I recommend setting both the compression adjuster (located at the top of the shock) and the rebound adjuster (located at the bottom of the shock) at about 8 clicks out for faster terrain. For slower more technical terrain I recommend setting both the compression and rebound settings at about 12 clicks out.

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Post by KDXGarage »

KarlP, how long has it been since you had the oil changed? By that, I mean how many hours has the shock oil got on it?

You might benefit from a softer spring, but what worries me is your comment of:

8/7/05 14/6 O.K. but gets loose as it heats up

How long does it take for it to start fading?

If you are dissatisfied with the way things are now, you may not want to go with heavier valving.

Well, my main question is, how long has it been since the shock oil was changed? I have had some people whose shock oil I changed to comment on how the clickers worked better afterwards.
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Post by KarlP »

I had the shock serviced about 6 months ago. The service consisted of an oil change, parts cleaning, and inspection. It seemed a bit more supple after that but I can't tell how it compares now.
It takes about 10-15 minutes of hard going to get heated up. We rode yesterday and I checked where the settings are and I'm running 13/7. After about 15 minutes these settings work as good as I think I'm going to get it. Decent control but pretty harsh. That's O.K. when you're pushing it but downright evil when you just want to cruise the miles.
Hey, bad news. My wife broke a bone in her ankle. She say's she was practicing power slides and high sided and put her outside foot down. A compressive fracture the orthopaedic said :sad: That was a couple of weeks ago. Two more and she gets a walking cast.
I think I'll get a 4.8 spring and standard shock service. Leave the valving alone for now.
What do you think?
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Post by Green Hornet »

Karl-Did you try the above setting from FRP?????
I'm 185lbs. and running 11/11 - 10/10 out from hardest position on the stock spring and about 10-9 on front .37 springs
"Growing Old is Mandatory, Growing Up is Optional"
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1985 KDX 200A3
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http://sponsorhouse.loopd.com/Members/R ... fault.aspx
Thanks to my 2008 Sponsers:
Dunlop, SteelMX, Amsoil, Simpson, Pro Works Racing, Pro Moto Billet, SLAP Energy,Boyesen, Rhino Stands, SixSixOne/SunLine Moto for your support.
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Post by KDXGarage »

First, sorry to hear of your wife breaking an ankle bone. I wish her a speedy recovery! Tht is cool that she rides. :grin:

When your shock was serviced, do you know if they took the piston, shims and seal head off during the cleaning or just left them on? Gunk can get in there that a normal cleaning will not take care of.

How many hours of riding do you have on the shock since the oil change?

You said, "I think I'll get a 4.8 spring and standard shock service. Leave the valving alone for now.
What do you think? "

Are you meaning that are wanting me to service your shock? Please contact me by e-mail if that is what you meant, as I try not to discuss different springs, revalving and such on the message board.
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Post by KarlP »

Yeah, It would be cooler if she rode well. :lol:
I'll send you a note.
I had no idea you might offer such services.
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Post by KDXGarage »

I try to be low key about it, but dang! :mrgreen:

I just don't want it to be this: :grin:

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