Cylinder Replating

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Rjcapt
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Cylinder Replating

Post by Rjcapt »

I have read the posts on this topic but I am looking for recommendations based on personal experience.

My cylinder has a small scratch I can definately catch a nail on so it needs a replate.

Who would you use, or more importantly, who would you use again?

Thanks

Pete
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David_L6
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Post by David_L6 »

I have used Millennium and would again. http://www.mt-llc.com/
2000 KDX200 / 2002 CR250 / 2003 CR250 / 2008 TT-R230 / 2011 Brute Force 750 / 2012 Brute Force 750 EPS
HankXR250
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Post by HankXR250 »

From all that I have read here - Millenium or Langcourt are the 2 most recommended.

But I am a new KDX owner and have not yet needed as replate.
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SS109
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Post by SS109 »

I would recommend anyone but U.S. Chrome. I don't like their plating and I like their attitude even less.
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Fletch
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Post by Fletch »

I've had mine done at cv tech aab outside montreal in Canada. Very nice work. Cost me 300 plus shipping and taxes so it was 350 but it was exchanged and I got it back in 3 days.
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fuzzy
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Post by fuzzy »

Langcourt - $180
'91 KDX 200 Project $300 KDX
'95 KDX 200 Project $600 KDX
'94 WR 250 Always a project
4vman1
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Post by 4vman1 »

So roughly $200 for replate, another $160 for piston kit, bearing, and gaskets. That's around $360 to make it stock. Wouldn't eric Gorr's 225 kit for $500 be money better spent since you get your cylinder ported and head modded? Are the 225 kits any good? I've had a 240 kit from him about a decade ago and it became a nightmare, so maybe staying with the stock size is best. It's not like you're ever going to have too much power out af a kdx, but you also don't want a vibrating, poorly powered steamer either.

I'm about to pop the top off along with the carb to send to RB, but I'm afraid of what I might find in there. Also, I know my powervalves must be dirty too, so if I pull the jug to clean the pv I might as well do a top end. If it needs a replate then the 225 kit looks even more attractive.
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fuzzy
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Post by fuzzy »

That's probably the route I'd take....with instructions on producing grunt, and not caring about top end as long as it'll run on pump gas without pinging up top. I'd settle for having to add a touch of tolulene if come pinging occurs. I say this as one of the complaints of the 225 is pinging on pump gas....However I'm not sure if these customers absolutely stressed this request. I wouldn't care if it fell a little flat on top as a compromise personally....It'l likely still be pulling stronger than a stocker when it does fall off.
'91 KDX 200 Project $300 KDX
'95 KDX 200 Project $600 KDX
'94 WR 250 Always a project
4vman1
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Post by 4vman1 »

Well, I yanked the head off today and sure enough there were some tiny scratches on the exhaust side that I can feel with my finger, but the bigger problem, which is new to me, is on the intake side were there are rough patches that feel like rust but look like carbon. I've pulled the carb, head, radiators, and pipe so far but gotta be off to work now, so I'll pull the jug tonight to get a better look.

So you'd go for more torque over the mo'betta port?
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fuzzy
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Post by fuzzy »

I'd go for mo pump gas ;)
'91 KDX 200 Project $300 KDX
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'94 WR 250 Always a project
4vman1
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Post by 4vman1 »

That's the port I think I'm going to go for. Anybody have any experiance with his "low to mid" port? Does it totally kill the top end and overev? I'm going to box her up tonight and send her tomorrow.
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