KIPS
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KIPS
helped a friend today to rebuild the top end on his 05 220...fitted a new piston & cleaned up & inspected the top end which was in very good condition however after installing the kips valves (& looking at the movement through the exhaust port) i noticed that the L/H valve opened before the R/H valve ..also the R/H valve didnt seem to open as much as the L/H valve does when fully opened, we followed the manual & installed the correct valves/sub valves in the correct order & aligned up the markings with the notches on the control rods etc, to be honest i never looked at the functioning of the kips before the strip down so dont know if they were already or supposed to be like this to begin with.. has anyone else here come across this during a strip down??
Last edited by cornishwrecker220 on 03:17 pm Jan 02 2012, edited 1 time in total.
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- Supporting Member I
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when installed and operating correctly, the kips valves should open equally, in unison.
I used this when I serviced my kips recently...
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showth ... ost7720833
I used this when I serviced my kips recently...
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showth ... ost7720833
2017 Husqvarna FE250
- scheckaet
- KDXRider.net
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the manual has the subvalve wrong, the left and right are swapped.
02 KX 200 hybrid: RB head and carb
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
Sold ☹ DRZ 400 SM
bike build: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... ike+stable
bike profile http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 0709#30709
newb info: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 57#p117919
jetting guide: http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... 105&t=1156
- rbates9
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have taken another look & it appears that when you tighten down the little nut on the end of the shaft that times up both the valves this little wheel is not keyed so when force is applied to tighten the nut you move the sub valve on this side hence it not opening in sink with the other side..the wheel has x2 small holes in it either side of the nut presumably to attatch some kind of locking tool (this is not mentiond in the manual)..i used a screwdriver to lock against the ratchet shaft when tightening down the nut & job done..everything now lines up perfect ( i did remove both valves & swap them round to see if that helped but could not get any marks to line up on the ratchet shafts so assume this manual was correct to begin with )
- Slick_Nick
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not on this 220 & it doesnt look like it never was `keyed`..nothing inside shows evidence that it had been broken or was broken..the main shaft that exits on the left hand side of the motor (if sitting on the motorcycle) the wheel just slides onto the shaft & is fastened by a small 8mm nut (like it states in the workshop manual...even on the parts fisch it appears the same?