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Second ride results

Posted: 08:08 pm Dec 09 2011
by Oregon Trail
So my second ride results are my front brake sucks. :oops: I have a Husqvarna too and the brakes on that are awesome, I like to lock up when I need to but these would not. I usually set my bikes up with real touchy brakes, but a whole handful and it wouldn't lock up. The pads look like there's meat left, but you never know what the previous owner did or didn't do. I'll take it apart to see if the pads are just glazzed. :roll: I rear worked fine after some adjustment. :boogie:

Posted: 09:45 pm Dec 09 2011
by SS109
KDX front brakes work great. If they don't then there is definitely something wrong. I would make sure pads are good, proper fluid level, fresh fluid, properly bled, and make sure rotor is withing spec. If all of that is good it should throw you over the bars with ease!

Posted: 09:46 pm Dec 09 2011
by Richardtheroadie
Wow, this opposite my reaction. I love that I can grab the front brake and not lock up on my KDX. The Husky I have has become the buddy bike for that reason. Just test rode the second KDX to the stable and was happy the front brake was closer to the KDX than the Husky (2004 TE510 vs '97 KDX with RM250 front end). Is my front brake mushy as well? and how do I keep it that way?

Posted: 09:48 pm Dec 09 2011
by rbates9
OEM pads seem to be the best pads for the KDX from a general consensus. I had EBC front brakes on my bike when I bought it and you only had about one and a half stops before they were done for the day. I swaped back to OEM pads and they work great!

Have you tried adjusting the lever?

Posted: 11:33 pm Dec 09 2011
by Oregon Trail
>|<>QBB<
Richardtheroadie wrote:Wow, this opposite my reaction. I love that I can grab the front brake and not lock up on my KDX. The Husky I have has become the buddy bike for that reason. Just test rode the second KDX to the stable and was happy the front brake was closer to the KDX than the Husky (2004 TE510 vs '97 KDX with RM250 front end). Is my front brake mushy as well? and how do I keep it that way?
You need a lot for front brake where I ride; steep hills of decomposed granite, other wise you just start skidding down the trail. I love just being able to pull in and lock it up when needed on those controlled skids. :mrgreen:
I adjusted the lever (helped some) and I'll mic the rotor next.

Posted: 07:24 pm Dec 12 2011
by Mr. Wibbens
Where do you ride?

The Peak? Quartz?

My front brake works fine

Posted: 02:39 pm Dec 15 2011
by Oregon Trail
>|<>QBB<
Mr. Wibbens wrote:Where do you ride?

The Peak? Quartz?

My front brake works fine
Mainly at a place known as Johns Peak and Anderson Butte. :whistle:

Posted: 09:36 am Dec 16 2011
by gsa102
I had issues with my front brakes, they were mushy and ended up locking up in a race. I rebuilt the master cylinder, and they are much more crisp and release properly.

Posted: 10:51 am Dec 16 2011
by turtle
Bleeding is critical too. I rebuilt m/c and caliper and still didn't have much brake. I struggled getting it bled well, but I just kept after it and bled the heck out of it. Now this thing has some brakes!

Posted: 11:51 am Dec 16 2011
by Oregon Trail
I'll try bleeding then rebuilding, thanks. :grin:

Posted: 06:22 pm Dec 16 2011
by gsa102
Try reverse bleeding with a turkey baster and a small piece of hose. Squeeze the fluid into the caliper at the bleed screw.

Posted: 01:48 pm Dec 22 2011
by Mr. Wibbens
>|<>QBB<
Oregon Trail wrote:>|<>QBB<
Mr. Wibbens wrote:Where do you ride?

The Peak? Quartz?

My front brake works fine
Mainly at a place known as Johns Peak and Anderson Butte. :whistle:
figured you were who you were

Posted: 02:27 pm Dec 22 2011
by harlequin
+1 for bleeding with a turkey baster. My neighbor and I were bleeding brakes on his YZ, and even though we "finished" doing the front, when we rode it down the street it still would feel mooshy and then lock up all of a sudden, and we went back and used a turkey baster like that, and it pushed more air bubbles up to the master cylinder. that plus tapping all over the whole system with a rubber-coated rod, hose and parts, broke up a lot of air. it made all the difference

Posted: 07:09 pm Dec 22 2011
by Mr. Wibbens
>|<>QBB<
gsa102 wrote:Try reverse bleeding with a turkey baster and a small piece of hose. Squeeze the fluid into the caliper at the bleed screw.
I prefer a mity-vac

Change fluid and bleed all in one easy no mess step

Posted: 09:12 pm Dec 22 2011
by THill
Hey another little item is the pumps used to put gear lube in outboards lower units....Screw it on a bottle of brake fluid, have the correct size of hose that fits the bleeder and pump right out of the brake fluid bottle...These can be found at Wallyworld or any outboard marina.....very easy , no mess and works great if your by yourself ........

Posted: 11:42 am Dec 23 2011
by Oregon Trail
Have to do something, the front brake is squealling on downhills and won't let me completely stop the front wheel. :oops: The pads look like EBC metallic pads. :cry:

Posted: 01:06 pm Dec 24 2011
by Mr. Wibbens
must be something not right somewhere, but I doubt it has anything to do with the pads, unless they are glazed over

Posted: 05:55 pm Jan 06 2012
by Oregon Trail
Went out today with the new pads, way better! :prayer: Rode on a bunch of granite and they finally worked like I wanted them to. :lol: