Second ride results
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Second ride results
So my second ride results are my front brake sucks. I have a Husqvarna too and the brakes on that are awesome, I like to lock up when I need to but these would not. I usually set my bikes up with real touchy brakes, but a whole handful and it wouldn't lock up. The pads look like there's meat left, but you never know what the previous owner did or didn't do. I'll take it apart to see if the pads are just glazzed. I rear worked fine after some adjustment.
- SS109
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KDX front brakes work great. If they don't then there is definitely something wrong. I would make sure pads are good, proper fluid level, fresh fluid, properly bled, and make sure rotor is withing spec. If all of that is good it should throw you over the bars with ease!
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AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
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Wow, this opposite my reaction. I love that I can grab the front brake and not lock up on my KDX. The Husky I have has become the buddy bike for that reason. Just test rode the second KDX to the stable and was happy the front brake was closer to the KDX than the Husky (2004 TE510 vs '97 KDX with RM250 front end). Is my front brake mushy as well? and how do I keep it that way?
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You need a lot for front brake where I ride; steep hills of decomposed granite, other wise you just start skidding down the trail. I love just being able to pull in and lock it up when needed on those controlled skids.Richardtheroadie wrote:Wow, this opposite my reaction. I love that I can grab the front brake and not lock up on my KDX. The Husky I have has become the buddy bike for that reason. Just test rode the second KDX to the stable and was happy the front brake was closer to the KDX than the Husky (2004 TE510 vs '97 KDX with RM250 front end). Is my front brake mushy as well? and how do I keep it that way?
I adjusted the lever (helped some) and I'll mic the rotor next.
- Mr. Wibbens
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Where do you ride?
The Peak? Quartz?
My front brake works fine
The Peak? Quartz?
My front brake works fine
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FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
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FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
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FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
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FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
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+1 for bleeding with a turkey baster. My neighbor and I were bleeding brakes on his YZ, and even though we "finished" doing the front, when we rode it down the street it still would feel mooshy and then lock up all of a sudden, and we went back and used a turkey baster like that, and it pushed more air bubbles up to the master cylinder. that plus tapping all over the whole system with a rubber-coated rod, hose and parts, broke up a lot of air. it made all the difference
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I prefer a mity-vacgsa102 wrote:Try reverse bleeding with a turkey baster and a small piece of hose. Squeeze the fluid into the caliper at the bleed screw.
Change fluid and bleed all in one easy no mess step
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Hey another little item is the pumps used to put gear lube in outboards lower units....Screw it on a bottle of brake fluid, have the correct size of hose that fits the bleeder and pump right out of the brake fluid bottle...These can be found at Wallyworld or any outboard marina.....very easy , no mess and works great if your by yourself ........
#2 , 03 220 HYBRID..
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- Mr. Wibbens
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must be something not right somewhere, but I doubt it has anything to do with the pads, unless they are glazed over
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FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
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FIVE OUT OF FOUR PEOPLE DONUT UNDERSTAND FRACTIONS
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