KDXRIDER.NET

'05 KDX 220

The 'claw' gear on the right side of the engine---the one that engages the gear on the KIPS has an arrow inscribed on it --and the letter L. Does that signify that the nut holding the claw is ---LEFT HAND THREAD?

Also----where can I download a service manual that would have this kind of information?----I'm in the process of installing a Wiseco piston to replace the OEM Piston. Any tips or advise would be appreciated. I'm a reasonably savvy mechanic but haven't done this one before.

Yes it is right to loosen.

H model manual top right of your screen.
tips:
support the actuating shaft, support the actuating shaft, support the actuating shaft, and lastly support the actuating shaft when removing the claw. (left hand thread iirc)
Some other will chime in i'm sure to confirm.

I can confirm it is a left hand thread. Righty loosey on that one.

Oh, and support the shaft!

Shaft supported---Nut removed and claw taken off. So far so good. Now to proceed ----planning to lift the cylinder and head together-----Wondering what I'll find---what will that OIM piston look like? Will I encounter any Problems?----so far everything has been pretty straightforward.

Why not take the head off while the jug is still bolted down? Makes it MUCH easier to untorque those bolts.

Slick_Nick wrote:Why not take the head off while the jug is still bolted down? Makes it MUCH easier to untorque those bolts.

So as not to have to replace the head gasket, I would guess.


The OEM piston won't look like much? Not sure what you're asking.

OK----the OEM piston looks great--- does have some carbon buildup on top by the skirts are smooth and shiny with no duress. Very clean---with just a thin hint of blow by under the second ring and only at the exhaust port. This piston has two summers use on it---but probably not more than 1200-1500 miles on it judging from the wear on the original tires.

The bore is perfect---and the head is clean without any carbon buildup.

I will proceed to install the Wiseco piston as soon as I can get a upper rod bearing---which I forgot to order.

I pulled the cylinder and head together---leaving the head torqued to the cylinder---and figured on putting it back together the same way. Why isn't this a good idea? Never done that before but don't know why I shouldn't do it now???? Is there something I don't know?

No, not at all. That's a very good way to do it if you're just changing out a piston. I'm not sure why nick wanted you to remove the head....

I always replace head gaskets when I do a piston change. Of course, I do like to replace more things than nessicary just to be safe.

Of course, I do like to replace more things than nessicary just to be safe.

Hmmmmmmmmmm.....Really?

OH NOES!!!! HERE WE GO AGAIN!!!!!!

Since it came up...How are them bearing's holding up Nick?

Brian wrote:Since it came up...How are them bearing's holding up Nick?

Bahhhh! u beat me to it!

Brian wrote:Since it came up...How are them bearing's holding up Nick?

Still working beautifully!

Actually, I feel bad for saying that. I replaced them all about a month or so afterwards, and THOSE ones are working beautifully!

Brian wrote:Since it came up...How are them bearing's holding up Nick?

they couldn't get any rustier

Nick was right---the head has to come off now so that I can scuff the cylinder walls with a scotchbright pad----and I need to check the ring end gap with the rings sitting up high in the cylinder---just to make sure they aren't going to be too tight----thanks Nick! Besides I wanted to pull the Kips covers and have a look see. What I saw in there impressed me that the Castor oil was doing a great job of lubrication---boy it's greasy in there. I wonder if what I am seeing is attributable to the Klotz brand or oil or whether it is because of being Castor oil. I've never seen an oil film so thick on any of the other two strokes that I've had, none of which burned Castor oil. It will be interesting to see what kind of oil film I find in my second bike after I finish this one. The second one has been burning Castor oil but of a different and more expensive brand----I'll report on that later.
By the way----Wiseco informs me that .004 inches of gap per each inch of bore is the minimum target ring gap. I've got about .50 mm gap which is well within that standard.
I'll be back with results----waiting for some more parts now-----