HELP!! I can't get my Kdx to tick over!!
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a 46 is fine, I have a 48 but it's rich. I still don't foul plugs.
I fully agree with bates, he knows his stuff I think. Given your past piston melting I would follow his advice and look at the intake for a leak,
I've heard of several ways to do this but someone who knows a good way should chime in.
Involved but accurate
http://klemmvintage.com/airleaks.htm
cheaper
http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-1 ... oke-13912/
Find it, eliminate it and carry on.
I fully agree with bates, he knows his stuff I think. Given your past piston melting I would follow his advice and look at the intake for a leak,
I've heard of several ways to do this but someone who knows a good way should chime in.
Involved but accurate
http://klemmvintage.com/airleaks.htm
cheaper
http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-1 ... oke-13912/
Find it, eliminate it and carry on.
Fletch
89 kdx 200 with 99 rm125 forks
89 kdx 200 with 99 rm125 forks
- rbates9
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A cheap easy way to look for an external leak (Not crank seals) is to start the bike and let it run until the idle is stable and then use some starting fluid and spray around the joints between the carb, reeds, ect. If the engine revs up when you spray a ceratin area then you have a leak. If it is a bad leak it may even make the engine die out a little. So if there is any change in the idle then that area is in need of more attention.
To check the crank seals you can remove the flywheel cover and look for any type of oil in the bottom of the housing. If no oil is in there than you might be ok. I have never tried spraying starting fluid in the flywheel side while it is running but I don't see why it would hurt any thing to do so to check for a leak. The other side can be tough to pin point unless you are having a loss of transmission oil or excessive pressure in the transmission.
Being an older bike it could very well need a set of crank seals.
Fletch's recommendations will point out for sure where the leak is if you have the time and materials. And if so by all means go that route
To check the crank seals you can remove the flywheel cover and look for any type of oil in the bottom of the housing. If no oil is in there than you might be ok. I have never tried spraying starting fluid in the flywheel side while it is running but I don't see why it would hurt any thing to do so to check for a leak. The other side can be tough to pin point unless you are having a loss of transmission oil or excessive pressure in the transmission.
Being an older bike it could very well need a set of crank seals.
Fletch's recommendations will point out for sure where the leak is if you have the time and materials. And if so by all means go that route
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Sometimes the brass tube that extends down off the main block into the fuel in the float bowl can be plugged---and the result is that the bike won't idle acting exactly like a plugged pilot jet----You said you cleaned the pilot jet out. you may need to use a very small welding tip cleaning wire to 'rod' out the tube. THen, with that clean and with the bike warm and the slide stop screw adjusted correctly(and the air screw turned out about 1 &1/2 turns) and the float level adjusted correctly it should 'tick over' nicely. I don't think the needle position is really involved in the "idle' circuit-------Let's solve one problem at a time. (I'm going to assume your pilot jet size is close to right size based on your earlier assertion that you had it "ticking over" after cleaning the pilot jet)
The Duck of Deseret (Deseret was Utah's first name)