200 to 220
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200 to 220
Got a couple of questions about putting a 220 top end on a 200.
Still looking for parts to do this, right now I have two options.
Option 1 a freshly plated cylinder only done by Millennium no head or valves, whats it worth. Will my 200 valves work, I know I will need a 220 head.
Option 2 a complete top end with head and valves that needs replating,whats it worth.
Still looking for parts to do this, right now I have two options.
Option 1 a freshly plated cylinder only done by Millennium no head or valves, whats it worth. Will my 200 valves work, I know I will need a 220 head.
Option 2 a complete top end with head and valves that needs replating,whats it worth.
- Julien D
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- skythrasher
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- Julien D
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Oh, I should probably also try to answer your question as well, rather than just question your desire to neuter your bike...
With no core cylinder to trade, the re-plated unit is probably worth about $350. $250 if you had a core to trade. That's what it would cost to purchase same item directly from Millinium.
The core cylinder with head and valves.. $200 maybe?
With no core cylinder to trade, the re-plated unit is probably worth about $350. $250 if you had a core to trade. That's what it would cost to purchase same item directly from Millinium.
The core cylinder with head and valves.. $200 maybe?
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The 200 does have the RB mods along with a fork swap and suspension revalve by a local tuner who rides the same areas I ride. The reason for thinking about a change is the older I get (50+) the longer it takes to heal up from the high speed get offs . So i'm going to be riding a lot more technical single track.juliend wrote:My first question, is why? If you want more low end from the 200 it's easily attainable with some mods, and the top end on the 200 already walks the 220 easily.
That would be a downgrade, IMO.
Thanks for the info.
- Julien D
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Well, if that's the case, the 220 jug might be a good start. It's definitely king of the single track.
If you've already got a 200 engine in good running shape, you might just look at throwing some extra weight on the flywheel and running a woods pipe. A 225 kit would be a better option than switching to a 220 jug, I think. But, if you can come across a good deal on a complete 220 top end, might be a cheaper way to do what you want. Selling your existing cylinder would recoup some of the cost too.
If you've already got a 200 engine in good running shape, you might just look at throwing some extra weight on the flywheel and running a woods pipe. A 225 kit would be a better option than switching to a 220 jug, I think. But, if you can come across a good deal on a complete 220 top end, might be a cheaper way to do what you want. Selling your existing cylinder would recoup some of the cost too.
- David_L6
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Don't fool around with just 220ccs. Here's whatcha need - 252ccs!
http://rpmmfg.com/BigBoreStrokerkits.aspx
http://rpmmfg.com/BigBoreStrokerkits.aspx
2000 KDX200 / 2002 CR250 / 2003 CR250 / 2008 TT-R230 / 2011 Brute Force 750 / 2012 Brute Force 750 EPS
- rbates9
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David_L6 wrote:Don't fool around with just 220ccs. Here's whatcha need - 252ccs!
http://rpmmfg.com/BigBoreStrokerkits.aspx
It would be nice to have a little more info about it. Has any one ever seen / rode one? seeing that it is double or triple what most KDX's are worth it would have to be very VERY impressive.
- David_L6
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I found that doing a Google search. I just can't see any possible way that it would be worth what it costs for most people.rbates9 wrote:David_L6 wrote:Don't fool around with just 220ccs. Here's whatcha need - 252ccs!
http://rpmmfg.com/BigBoreStrokerkits.aspx
It would be nice to have a little more info about it. Has any one ever seen / rode one? seeing that it is double or triple what most KDX's are worth it would have to be very VERY impressive.
2000 KDX200 / 2002 CR250 / 2003 CR250 / 2008 TT-R230 / 2011 Brute Force 750 / 2012 Brute Force 750 EPS
- sparkingdogg
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if you swap the 220 top end, you will need the jug, the head, and the curved part of the main exhaust valve from a 220, otherwise all of your 200 valve parts will fit. use a wiseco piston for sure, the oem is cast and the wiseco is forged. there are no other differences in the 200 vs. 220 except the 220 uses a smaller carb and an o ring chain. i am running a 240 big bore kit installed by the previous owner on my 200, along with the rb head and carb mods. it's pretty incredible, having ridden 20-25 kdx200/220's ranging from bone stock to some normal mods. good stuff.
1999 KDX240 big bore street legal, 2008 KLX300R, 2002 XR250R stock, 1985 XL600R stock, 2001 KDX220 bone stock street legal, 1988 VN750 dresser, 1975 RD350 stock, 1983 GL650I Sliverwing Interstate with sidecar, 1975 Kawasaki F11 (early KDX!), about 15 other bikes that come and go!
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Thanks for the info on the valves. Still shopping for parts i'm in no hurry, my goal is to do this by spring time.sparkingdogg wrote:if you swap the 220 top end, you will need the jug, the head, and the curved part of the main exhaust valve from a 220, otherwise all of your 200 valve parts will fit. use a wiseco piston for sure, the oem is cast and the wiseco is forged. there are no other differences in the 200 vs. 220 except the 220 uses a smaller carb and an o ring chain. i am running a 240 big bore kit installed by the previous owner on my 200, along with the rb head and carb mods. it's pretty incredible, having ridden 20-25 kdx200/220's ranging from bone stock to some normal mods. good stuff.
- wbdisco
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I believe i would just put the money on a newer bike(dare I say KTM200)David_L6 wrote:Don't fool around with just 220ccs. Here's whatcha need - 252ccs!
http://rpmmfg.com/BigBoreStrokerkits.aspx
2000 KDX200(mine)
Polini X3(daughter)(FOR SALE)
TRX70(other daughter)
Big Bear 400(wifey)
1969 M35a2 (Deuce and a 1/2)
Polini X3(daughter)(FOR SALE)
TRX70(other daughter)
Big Bear 400(wifey)
1969 M35a2 (Deuce and a 1/2)