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Ok so I've been riding the crap out of my 98 200, and it has been needing a new chain and sprockets since I bought it 2 months ago. I thought everything was stock, but it had an 11 tooth front and a stock 47 rear. It needed replacing and I had already ordered the stock size so I put it on. Well I rode out at capital forest yesterday, and was disappointed in stock gearing. I lost most of the snap power and I can't crawl around in 3rd gear anymore because it just bogs down. My question it, would 12 tooth front give me the best of both worlds? I'm putting the torque pipe and turbine core 2 next month, am I going to need another set of gears for those mods?
Next question makes me feel like a huge newbie, my brake pedal has way too much travel before it actually engages. I see what looks like the adjustment bolts, but one of them is surrounded by a fitting and I can't fit anything in there to hold it or turn it. Advice welcomed

Before doing any engine mods I ran 12/49 and liked it quite a bit. After aftermarket pipe, head mods, boyesen reeds, and proper jetting I moved back to 13/49. An 11 tooth is awful small and will wear the chain faster. In your situation, I would go with a 12t and next time you replace the rear go with a 48 or 49t. That gearing will work fine with or without mods, but you may eventually want to go back to a 13t, so hang onto it for later ;).

I can't recall the rear brake adjustment procedure off-hand. I'll take a look when I get home if nobody has answered previously. And just to go ahead and get this out of the way, a service manual is an excellent investment!

Thanks for the gearing advice! I'll have a 49 tooth put on the rear when I take it into the shop. The prior owner rounded off all the bolts at the back of the sprocket and rounded out the allEn key fronts just putting the sprocket on. Now I need all new hardware. And where can I get the manual for the 1998 200? I clicked the links at the top, but the don't have my year. Thanks

did you clic on the left one or the RIGHT one? (E serie vs H serie like yours)

Well now I just feel stupid.... Thanks.

http://www.cyclepedia.com/amember/signu ... up=CPP-102


The one year subscription is sufficient, since you can print out whatever you want.

The brake adjustment is the threaded rod sticking out of the bottom of the master cylinder. Loosen the locknut on the brake pedal end and use a 10 mm wrench to screw the rod in or out of the master cylinder. What you think is a fitting surrounding the upper nut is a soft rubber boot. Be careful not to tear the boot, you can push it up from around the nut with the 10 mm wrench.
With a few minor power adders and tuning I found 13/47 to be just right.

Hey everyone, I just wanted to say thanks for all the help. I finally got my rear brake engaging where I wanted it too. I also swapped back to my old 11 tooth front sprocket until I get my 12 tooth in. I'll be ordering my fmf torque and turbine core at the end of the month. After I get those on I'll probably decide which sprocket will work best for me

Sexpanther?

Aiy, I thought the same.

I guess that is whats running around in Puyallup.

I explained the name before in my intro on this forum. It's the name of the team I deployed to Iraq with. I would like to change it though....

Sexpanther34, there is nothing wrong with your user name. Wear it with pride and thanks again for your service!

SS109 wrote:Sexpanther34, there is nothing wrong with your user name. Wear it with pride and thanks again for your service!

+1

Whatever floats your boat

It floats my boat.... It floats my boat so well that I can't keep the damn thing in the water