KDXRIDER.NET

hey guys

ive been looking online (mostly windowshopping) at some performance pipes and i've come across a pipe called "bills"
i like it since its about half the price of a FMF or PC pipe but does any one know how the qaulity/fitment is on it?

and on a more realistic level, ive come across some post on the internet where people suggest drilling holes into the airbox cover (or completely removing it)
this mod has been around for ages and must have been applied to just about any bike out there (i know ive onwend more then a few 50cc with swiss cheese like fliter boxes)
if i were to do this to my 96 200 would i need to rejet it?

thanks guys

rejet yes.

pipe, airbox lid removed or drilled up, and re-jet. Will make a world of difference. Bills pipes were good stuff back in the day, would definitely be worth a shot.

thanks for the quick replies guys

i might hold off on the airbox mod untill i can afford a pipe
(right now all im investing in is the lighting part of the bike)

would an aftermarket pipe with the stock resonator be much louder then an all stock system?

(i use the bike to comute back and forth to work and i'd like to stay on somewhat good terms with the neighbours)

It's a little louder going to a non-insulated pipe, but still quiet as far as that goes.

i might just give that a try
(the bills pipe runs 115 shipped, seems like a good deal)

unless anyone has a nice FMF or PC laying around they'd wanna donate


on the jetting, i understand the opened airbox lets in more air and therefor calls for more fuel (bigger jets)
would a pipe allow for more flow and need bigger jets aswell?

(i havent fiddled with this kind of stuff in over a decade)

read this:
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1156
all u need to know about jetting is there

Yes on more flow. Maybe, maybe not on the jetting.

When you say "re-jet", do you mean the bike has been jetted for it's current setup, or you are changing from the factory jetting, or just whatever was in there when you got it?

In some cases (many), the airbox mod and pipe only partially make up for the insanely rich factory jetting. Might even need to be leaned out further.

as far as i know everything on this bike is stock, just like it left the factory 15 years ago
incuding the jets

does the KDX have a reputation for running rich ?
(gotta dig deep her for a sec) so if i run her in high gear at WOT and then cut the engine, coast to a stop and check the plug...that would be the correct way to check right ?

(actually, ill read the jetting page FIRST, then ask questions that are left after readin it)

thanks again

Just make sure the Bill's pipe is for an "H" series bike (1995-newer). Many of the less popular (lower priced) pipes (DG, Bill's, DynoPort, etc.) are for "E" series or older bikes only.

Here you go..............

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11112

thanks guys

the rev pipe is mainly for gains on the top of the range right?
(im not really sure what i prefer, so far ive just used the bike to scoot around town and back and forth to work but i would like to do some offroading with it soon)

quick question about the airbox cover...what is it?
i mean, i took my seat of to inspect the filter element (pretty clean looking donut shaped unit with some sticky oil on it) and i noticed that once the seat was removed i could look right down into the airbox
(there was also one black electrical doohickey floating around in front of the box and another sturdier looking one bolted to the frame on the back)
does this mean i dont have the cover or are we talking about the whole surrounding (vertically placed) plastics?

sorry to ask so many silly questions but i just wanna get it right the first time

airbox already removed.

thanks schekeat
i thought thats what it looked like but i just wanted to be sure

i started fiddling with the airscrew yesterday and then i thought i'd look at the clip next
so i opened up the carb and pulled the slide out only to find the needle is bolted down? all the ones i've seen before are just pushed in place by the spring so i was a little caught off gaurd with this
(i dont wanna ruin anything so i thought i'd ask)
is it a 7 MM bolt that i can just loosen up to remove the cable and free up the needle or is there a trick to it?

diymirage wrote:thanks schekeat
i thought thats what it looked like but i just wanted to be sure

i started fiddling with the airscrew yesterday and then i thought i'd look at the clip next
so i opened up the carb and pulled the slide out only to find the needle is bolted down? all the ones i've seen before are just pushed in place by the spring so i was a little caught off gaurd with this
(i dont wanna ruin anything so i thought i'd ask)
is it a 7 MM bolt that i can just loosen up to remove the cable and free up the needle or is there a trick to it?

Just remove the screw-don't over tighten on install

i just took the carb apart for a good cleaning/inspection
everything looks to be in good shape

im running 160 mains and 48 for the pilot, does this sound stock or has the carb been looked at and rejetted before ?
(clip is in the center position)

That sounds like stock settings. It will be well worth your time to buy some jets and try the jetting guide. You will be amazed what a difference jetting can make. And how quick you get at pulling the carb out by the time you get it right.

I would recommend a 150 main jet, and a 45 pilot jet for a starting point.

so even with the added airflow from the open airbox i hould install some smaller jets?
(just making sure i get this right)

i'll pick some up on monday, planning on stopping in at the local stealership anyway.

i wonder if i could get some allen head or hexagon heads for the bowl screws, the philips heads that are in there right now are looking close to stripped allready


once i get the pilot jet right i could replace the main by taking of the 17mm plug while leaving the carb on the bike right?



oh, one more quick question about the plug-chop
do i need to top the bike out in 6th gear to do this, or could i top it on say, 4th?
i have a stretch of road on the industrial park here that dead ends in a field i practice. it would be perfect for test and tune but i dont think i can reach top speed in 6th there

allen screw for float bowl: contact Ron Black at RBDesign, great costumer service. Get the air thumb screw while you're at it, it's easier to adjust your airscrew on the fly.
you can chage the main the way u describe but it's just as easy to remove it all together.
You can do the plug chop test in 5th if u need, dunno about 4th, should work. It's all about putting a load on the engine, maybe you could drag the rear brake to put more load? That's what I'd do. Some more knowledgeable ppl will shime in if this is wrong.