KDXRIDER.NET

juliend wrote:

rbates9 wrote:

juliend wrote:The price is $345 for the airstriker. $165 to mod your existing carb.

Don't be surprised if it gets over $200 by the time you get it back.

Why is that?

When I sent my carb out (low hours on the bike, still has the original top end with 145 to 150 psi compression) it needed extra parts.

Carb mod $165
RB mixture screw $25
Float needle $19
Jet block gasket $10
Float bowl gasket $5
Total $224


That is why.

wow. thanks for the info :)

juliend wrote:wow. thanks for the info :)

The money didn't bother me as much as having to mail another money order out and wait for him to get it to finish the carb to mail it back. I would have rather paid the $224 up front and had the carb back in half the time.

I'm happy with the results, it was just frustrating to have "extra" parts need to be replaced that maybe might just be added to the job and raise the price a little. Just my .02

did you need a full rebuild on your carb?
when I did mine, I already knew ew what I needed extra mixture screw and got the allen screw for the bowl, but my carb was only 2 years old...
Not everyone will want or need to spend the extra for gasket and such...

Try this:

1. pull the carb
2. remove the float bowl
3. put a piece of fuel line on the supply nipple
4. blow in the fuel line while lifting the float with a finger

See if slight finger pressure will seal the inlet (i.e. stop you from easily blowing through the hose). If the float needle does seal the inlet like this, then you know you have a float height problem, or something is causing the float or its needle to hang up and not lift all the way. If you can still blow into it with the needle fully lifted, then you know the needle seat is shot (or you got a bad aftermarket needle).


Edit: Sorry didn't see the second page and that you'd already sent it out. Maybe this will help someone else, though.

Cheers,
Paul

scheckaet wrote:did you need a full rebuild on your carb?
when I did mine, I already knew ew what I needed extra mixture screw and got the allen screw for the bowl, but my carb was only 2 years old...
Not everyone will want or need to spend the extra for gasket and such...

I sent away for the carb mod and mixture screw and while it was there it was recommended to also replace the rest of the parts.

No, I havn't sent it out, that was one of the other posters.

Actually, I think the primary problem is fixed. No more leaking. I took the carb apart again and took some scotch brite and cleaned out the bore again where the float needs goes. It seems to have worked, we'll see.

Now.....the bike bogs at low RPM, and the idle adjustment screw is all the way in. Any correlation between the two, or suggestions?

Thanks for all your guys help.

Check where the air screw is. Start about 1.5 turns out and go from there.

1 1/2 turns is where it's at. Guess I need to start reading on carb tuning, eh?

Oh, and what do you guys run your fuel/oil ratio at? I mixed it 32:1.

32:1 is fine. A lot of people run 40-50:1.
Don't ask what kind of oil without searching first, unless you just like to mess with people.
(I use Golden Spectro at 42:1 because it is the best!)

You will probably have to take your carb off a few more times.
Your current problem sounds like a plugged pilot jet. They are hard to clean, so you might want to buy a few jets of diffrent sizes, main and pilot, and after studying carb tuning you can put it into practise!

Have fun!

What kind of oil should I run? J/K

I printed out the carb tuning thread and will go from there I guess.

It's not a bad idea to start with new jets if you have any question about the ones currently installed. They can be hard to clean and if you get carried away you might change the size of them.