Just finished installing my dynaring that I bought last christmas.
First thing I noticed is I had to too take a lot of play out of the clutch cable using the inline adjuster and the adjuster at the clutch lever.
I don't think somethings quite right. I started the bike up in neutral, put the bike into 1st, felt it pull slightly. When I rolled on the throttle the bike pulled a little but just slipped as revved the hell out of it. I adjusted the cable tighter and looser without positive result. When the bike is in gear and I pull the clutch lever the bike begins to pull especially as I roll on the throttle. Something is backward. Any ideas as to what is wrong? Would this result if I installed the dynaring with the ring screws facing in instead of out?
DynaRing Installed Correctly? SOLVED!
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SOARSKI
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DynaRing Installed Correctly? SOLVED!
Last edited by SOARSKI on 02:59 pm Jul 26 2011, edited 1 time in total.
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KDX Butterfly
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SS109
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What year of KDX are you working on?
Youtube Channel: WildAzzRacing
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
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Tedh98
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SOARSKI
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SOLVED!
Bike is a 2004. All the plates were installed in the correct order and everything facing the correct direction.
I called Alan at Revloc and he gave me a few pointers.
Here is a link to the fiche for the clutch for terminology purposes.
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26 ... oup/Clutch
First of all the pack needs to be tight(the plates should not have any movement between them). So when all the discs are sandwiched between the clutch-hub and and the wheel-clutch everything should be nice and tight, no play between the discs. When this whole assembly sits inside the clutch housing pull up on one of the four wheel-clutch posts to ensure the pack is still tight. Put on the four clutch springs topped by the clutch spring holder. Screw in two of the clutch spring holder bolts snugly so the disc pack remains tight. Once the pack in snug then add the other two bolts. You will notice that before installing the springs you can push down on the four wheel-clutch posts and it sinks in the basket by an 1/8". That is loose. Pull back up on the posts and that will tighten up the discs once again. Keep it tight while installing springs, clutch spring holder, and bolts.
Second, make sure the clutch springs are seated properly against the clutch spring holder. The second time I was reinstalling I noticed one of the springs wasn't quite seated in its place. Pushed the spring in its place with a screwdriver, heard it pop into its seated position.
Clutch is working as expected.
Bike is a 2004. All the plates were installed in the correct order and everything facing the correct direction.
I called Alan at Revloc and he gave me a few pointers.
Here is a link to the fiche for the clutch for terminology purposes.
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26 ... oup/Clutch
First of all the pack needs to be tight(the plates should not have any movement between them). So when all the discs are sandwiched between the clutch-hub and and the wheel-clutch everything should be nice and tight, no play between the discs. When this whole assembly sits inside the clutch housing pull up on one of the four wheel-clutch posts to ensure the pack is still tight. Put on the four clutch springs topped by the clutch spring holder. Screw in two of the clutch spring holder bolts snugly so the disc pack remains tight. Once the pack in snug then add the other two bolts. You will notice that before installing the springs you can push down on the four wheel-clutch posts and it sinks in the basket by an 1/8". That is loose. Pull back up on the posts and that will tighten up the discs once again. Keep it tight while installing springs, clutch spring holder, and bolts.
Second, make sure the clutch springs are seated properly against the clutch spring holder. The second time I was reinstalling I noticed one of the springs wasn't quite seated in its place. Pushed the spring in its place with a screwdriver, heard it pop into its seated position.
Clutch is working as expected.
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SS109
- KDXRider.net
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Good deal. Glad you got it figured out.
Youtube Channel: WildAzzRacing
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
AZ State Parks & Trails OHV Ambassador - Trail Riders of Southern AZ
Current KDX: '98 KDX220
Old KDX: '90 KDX200 -White/Blue
'11 GasGas EC250R
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KDX Butterfly
- Queen B
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SOARSKI
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I've been back into the clutch a few times now making changes.
The clutch release lever angle was not within the specified 80-90 degrees. Whether it needs to be with the auto clutch I don't know but I decided to take out the shim(washer, section 5-6 clutch in the manual). That seemed to get it to 90 degrees.
Second, the main ring comes with 3 springs installed, I switched to 2 springs. I can't say that I noticed a huge difference. I was trying to A-B test 2 vs 3 springs by riding up and down the street. I think It will take a day of trail riding to see if I like 2 springs.
Before initially installing the auto clutch I measured the stock friction plate and springs to see if they were within spec. The friction plates were ok but the springs failed. Had to order new springs.
The reason I decided to install the auto clutch was because I found out through an MRI of my left elbow that I have a partially torn tendon that was causing a lot of pain when squeezing the clutch lever and sometimes just holding on. I had a buddy squeeze my clutch and thought it felt very heavy. After the installation of the auto clutch and new springs the clutch lever is now half as easy to pull. I tested the cable before installation and it moved freely. What makes a clutch harder to pull over time? Could it be the worn out springs?
The clutch release lever angle was not within the specified 80-90 degrees. Whether it needs to be with the auto clutch I don't know but I decided to take out the shim(washer, section 5-6 clutch in the manual). That seemed to get it to 90 degrees.
Second, the main ring comes with 3 springs installed, I switched to 2 springs. I can't say that I noticed a huge difference. I was trying to A-B test 2 vs 3 springs by riding up and down the street. I think It will take a day of trail riding to see if I like 2 springs.
Before initially installing the auto clutch I measured the stock friction plate and springs to see if they were within spec. The friction plates were ok but the springs failed. Had to order new springs.
The reason I decided to install the auto clutch was because I found out through an MRI of my left elbow that I have a partially torn tendon that was causing a lot of pain when squeezing the clutch lever and sometimes just holding on. I had a buddy squeeze my clutch and thought it felt very heavy. After the installation of the auto clutch and new springs the clutch lever is now half as easy to pull. I tested the cable before installation and it moved freely. What makes a clutch harder to pull over time? Could it be the worn out springs?