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Just got my replated cylinder back from Millenium. Looks great. Anyone know the proper torque for the cylinder studs? I searched on here but to no avail. I also have the cyclepedia manual, but i don't see it listed there either unless you just use the general torque values. Anyone??

C'mon, someone must have sent their cylinder in to be replated and then had to reinstall the cylinder studs. A little guidance?

I don't subscribe to the Cyclepedia manual but I would think it would be in there. I know the factory manual has them listed at the beginning of each chapter plus in the individual service procedures.

Oh, BTW, you never mentioned what KDX you have.

For E Series bikes the torque spec is 18ft/lbs (25 n-m) for the cylinder head nuts and cylinder nuts. Be sure to tighten in a criss-cross fashion.

OK, so the torque for the cylinder studs themselves is the same as the torque for the cylinder stud nuts? Thanks

Just wanted to be sure. I found the torque for the nuts was 18 ft-lbs, but I did not see the torque for the studs themselves.

wvsp612 wrote:OK, so the torque for the cylinder studs themselves is the same as the torque for the cylinder stud nuts?

Where'd you see that?

My bad. I said E series but I meant H. And yes my manual says 18ftlb for cylinder and cylinder head nuts.

But not for the studs

Probably about 12 ft.lbs for the studs. Do you have a book? The studs just need to be bottomed out good so they won't loosen up later. the torque from the nut will also help hold it in place.

I googled the **** out of this

Consensus seems to be you don't need to torque the studs

Dissimilar metal electrolysis will tend to make a stud 'stick' in the head

I've always just screwed 'em in till they bottom then back off a 1/4 turn.

Never worried about it too much.