1st ever top-end rebuild - '05 KDX220 - a little nervous

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ack
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1st ever top-end rebuild - '05 KDX220 - a little nervous

Post by ack »

I don't like the way my '05 KDX220 has been sounding lately (some knocking), so I picked up a Wiseco kit to possibly rectify that problem.
I've never done a full top-end before, so I have a bit of apprehension (we're scheduled for a weekend ride on the 18th/19th, so I'd rather do it now rather than have it go south up in the mountains).

I have a lifetime membership to CP's KDX220 Online Repair Manual and have looked through the disassembly/reassembly steps. I was just wondering if there is anything NOT covered in the online manual that I should be alerted to, or if there is another tutorial somewhere that I should read through before starting.

Unfortunately, I don't have lots of time as my work schedule between now and the 18th might afford me 8 daylight hours to accomplish the top-end rebuild.

Any constructive advice would certainly be welcomed.
Thanks,
Steve
Steve
Raleigh, NC
'05 KDX 220, '00 KTM 200 MXC, '04 KLR 650, '03 WR450
Just learnin' and looking to have fun.
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Post by heckler »

I followed the same manual step by step, having never seen the inside of the a dirtbike engine. Piston, wristpin bearing and gaskets.

Started it up 3rd kick. :supz:

Just make sure to tip the bike over before you start it to fill up the carb with gas. That's the only place I went wrong and it died 45 seconds later, which gave me the sweats.

Don't use oven cleaner. It works well, but will corrode the aluminum if left too long.
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Post by heckler »

don't rush it. it took me a few evenings.
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Post by heckler »

and you probably already know - Wiseco piston.
ack
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Post by ack »

>|<>QBB<
heckler wrote:and you probably already know - Wiseco piston.
Yup. Full Wiseco piston, wrist pin & gasket kit.
Steve
Raleigh, NC
'05 KDX 220, '00 KTM 200 MXC, '04 KLR 650, '03 WR450
Just learnin' and looking to have fun.
big gear head
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Post by big gear head »

I just did the same thing to my '98 KDX220 last week. I used the complete Wiseco top end kit too. If you still have the stock piston in yours then you might have a broken piston skirt that is making the noise. It seems like replacing the piston is a required job on the 220.

The only thing that I had a problem with that was not covered in the manual was how to put the gear back on the end of the kips shaft that goes through the cylinder. There was nothing to align the gear, so I just held it in place and tightened the nut. When I checked the valves I could see that I didn't get it right the first time so I had to try again.

I also tried to put the cylinder on without putting all of the kips stuff in it first. I had to take the cylinder back off to get all of the kips stuff in. This was also my first time doing this. It wasn't a big deal at all. I think I probably spent about 6 hours on it.

Be sure to use a wrench to hold the little paw on the kips shaft that goes into the bottom end when you loosen the left hand threaded nut. If you don't then you can cause a lot of damage to the clutch, transmission, case or other parts if the other end of the shaft breaks.
ack
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Post by ack »

>|<>QBB<
big gear head wrote:I just did the same thing to my '98 KDX220 last week. I used the complete Wiseco top end kit too. If you still have the stock piston in yours then you might have a broken piston skirt that is making the noise. It seems like replacing the piston is a required job on the 220.

The only thing that I had a problem with that was not covered in the manual was how to put the gear back on the end of the kips shaft that goes through the cylinder. There was nothing to align the gear, so I just held it in place and tightened the nut. When I checked the valves I could see that I didn't get it right the first time so I had to try again.

I also tried to put the cylinder on without putting all of the kips stuff in it first. I had to take the cylinder back off to get all of the kips stuff in. This was also my first time doing this. It wasn't a big deal at all. I think I probably spent about 6 hours on it.

Be sure to use a wrench to hold the little paw on the kips shaft that goes into the bottom end when you loosen the left hand threaded nut. If you don't then you can cause a lot of damage to the clutch, transmission, case or other parts if the other end of the shaft breaks.
Thanks for all that information - very much appreciated.
Did you notice any difference after the new top-end?
Steve
Raleigh, NC
'05 KDX 220, '00 KTM 200 MXC, '04 KLR 650, '03 WR450
Just learnin' and looking to have fun.
big gear head
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Post by big gear head »

If mine had been running right before, I might have noticed a difference. It was running bad before and it's still running bad, so I can't tell.
'98 KDX220
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Post by K D »

There are two seals and an Oring for the KIPS valve that did not come with the gasket set I bought (cometic) I had to order them from the dealer.
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Post by big gear head »

I also had to get those from Kawasaki. The manual doesn't cover replacing the seals.
'98 KDX220
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Post by JoKDX220r »

Try to make sure the noise didn't come from your crank bearings.
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Post by ack »

Well, I started working on the top-end yesterday late afternoon and got it all buttoned up this afternoon...probably took about 4 hours of labor.

Everything went off without a hitch (even the circ clips that hold in the wrist pin cooperated). What took the most time was going back and forth between the bike and my computer to double-check the CP Online Manual.

I put in fresh ATF and topped off (and bled) the cooling system with Engine Ice...1 kick, and it lit. Not too sure about break-in techniques - I've read many different views on how it should be done. I'll probably get it warm and let it cool for a few cycles, then let it rip.

I'm really happy I did this, as my son is going to ride it this weekend with us up in the mountains. Thanks for all the advice - it gave me some confidence to just do it.

One quick question - how can I tell if the piston I took out is OEM or an after market brand? From what I can read through the carbon, I see an arrow and the letter "C" on the top.

Thanks,
Steve
Steve
Raleigh, NC
'05 KDX 220, '00 KTM 200 MXC, '04 KLR 650, '03 WR450
Just learnin' and looking to have fun.
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Post by Julien D »

Sounds like OEM / prox (same thing). Wiseco has a part number in the top, and a W on the underside on the wrist pin boss.
Image
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Post by big gear head »

The stock piston is cast and the Wiseco is forged. You can tell by looking at the inside if it's cast.
'98 KDX220
ack
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Post by ack »

The KDX was flawless this weekend. Even stone cold in the early morning - no choke, 1 kick. vroom. My son said it ran like it was re-born.
Steve
Raleigh, NC
'05 KDX 220, '00 KTM 200 MXC, '04 KLR 650, '03 WR450
Just learnin' and looking to have fun.
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Re: 1st ever top-end rebuild - '05 KDX220 - a little nervous

Post by billie_morini »

This is a great thread, even if it was written years ago.
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