1989 KDX-200: Budget Rebuild

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KDXrider1989
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Post by KDXrider1989 »

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chadr wrote:my bike had a broken clutch lever spring when I got it and the clutch would function fine. You can take care of that after the bike is running if you are in a rush.
This is on my running KDX and I've had powerband issues ever since I bought it, so I really want to have this fixed. Also I destroyed the dust seal on the other KDX from a stupid mistake, so now I need to order a pair. I'm not in a rush anymore
KDXrider1989
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Post by KDXrider1989 »

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dfeckel wrote:There is a little dowel that that screw holds in place. Without the dowel, the shaft will move up and down a few millimeters and not engage the pushrod. You will want to check if that dowel is in there. If not, you definitely need to get one. There's no good way to hold the shaft in the upper, correct position without it. I was tempted once, when I lost the thing after pulling my inner clutch cover, to safety wire the arm to the rod, but I came to my senses and just ordered the dowel/pin. It was less than $5.
Yeah, I'll go check right now. I think the KDX I'm rebuilding needs this too. Would this require to pull off the whole right side cover? Thanks
chadr
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Post by chadr »

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KDXrider1989 wrote:>|<>QBB<
chadr wrote:my bike had a broken clutch lever spring when I got it and the clutch would function fine. You can take care of that after the bike is running if you are in a rush.
This is on my running KDX and I've had powerband issues ever since I bought it, so I really want to have this fixed. Also I destroyed the dust seal on the other KDX from a stupid mistake, so now I need to order a pair. I'm not in a rush anymore
in later years kawasaki added a washer above the oil seal and below the spring to help. you can get the correct size washer from a parts diagram of a later year kdx

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26 ... oup/Clutch
1989 KDX 200
dfeckel
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Post by dfeckel »

The dowel/pin goes into the inner cover through the hole that the screw is in, but you might have trouble seeing if it's actually in there without turning the cover over to get it to drop out. I think it might be tough to fish out with the cover attached to the cases.

Part 92043A on Bike Bandit's fische

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorc ... 5#sch49073
David Eckel
KDXrider1989
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Post by KDXrider1989 »

Ahh, I always wondered what that little pin was for, and why there was a groove around the governor shaft. Thanks man, I'm going to check if I need it replaced or if I even have one right now
KDXrider1989
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Post by KDXrider1989 »

Went to a Kawasaki dealership and ordered everything I need in order to complete the build and put everything back together (besides the sub-valve, I'll try to get it repaired) . Parts should come in around Monday or Tuesday, I'll just have to wait on the build until then. By the way, what do y'all use to install y'alls fork seals? I don't have a driver tool, but honestly it looks like I could just get a sizable pipe and hammer the seals in, or is that a bad idea? Using a screwdriver worked the past 3 times I replaced fork seals, but I didn't have any luck this time
KDXrider1989
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Post by KDXrider1989 »

Made a lot of progress today, now that I thought of another brilliant way to fix the sub-valve without welding it. I filed down the uneven top where the guide stem broke off and made a punch mark in the center. From there I drilled a hole about a quarter of an inch deep and hammered a metal pin that was similar in diameter of the broken guide stem. Got the KIPS to slide open and closed smoothly and put together the top end. Then I put together the cooling system for the most part (can't get the right side cover and water pump on until I get the return spring for the shifter). Put the kickstart gear in and the KIPS governor assembly together, and decided to take off the airbox and clean it. It looks really nice now, almost new! I'll put that and the carb back on the bike tomorrow and also clean the air filter. I'm very excited to get this thing together and fixed, i think it will run good!

BTW, is the water pump impeller supposed to be a little hard to rotate or is it supposed to move freely? It's off the bike right now and I installed a new water pump seal
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Fletch
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Post by Fletch »

Good Idea with the kips valve! Looking good.
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Post by KDXrider1989 »

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Fletch wrote:Good Idea with the kips valve! Looking good.
Still looks pretty ugly physically, but it's gonna run like a beast when it's done! And thanks!
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Post by KDXrider1989 »

I was pretty busy today doing other things, but I managed to make a little progress today. Pulled off the flywheel cover to find out that the flywheel has some rust on it, but I've seen some people on this site run their KDX with their flywheel more rusted up than mine so I guess its okay? found a small hole at the top of the casing where the cover bolts on to, so I patched it up with some quicksteel. Cleaned the air filter using a bucket of water with some laundry detergent. Cleaned some of the dirt on the frame where a pressure washer can't reach when fully assembled, and put back on the airbox. There isn't much more I can do until the parts come in either Monday or Tuesday, then I can put the whole bike together.

BTW, is the water pump impeller supposed to be a little hard to rotate when installed with a new seal? And if there is oil in the flywheel area, is that normal? (for my other KDX)
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Fletch
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Post by Fletch »

That must be a flywheel weight as mine looks nothing like that. There should be no oil in the flywheel area as this means there is a crank seal going. When I did my water pump seal it wasn't that hard to turn before it was all bolted back together, it should be a little stiffer but not crazy. Did you grease the seal with Moly grease as per the manual? It shouldn't turn at all when everything is bolted up unless the motor is turning.
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Post by Julien D »

There is a serious weight on that flywheel!

No, should be no oil in the flywheel area.
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KDXrider1989
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Post by KDXrider1989 »

Flywheel weight? Awesome! And yeah, the water pump assembly is together but off the bike right now and it's a little stiff to turn, but not super hard. I'll go back in with some grease, I didn't look at my manuel for this part :roll: I have to check with my other bike again to see if there's oil in the flywheel area, hopefully not. And I guess it's okay to have rust on the flywheel?
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Post by Julien D »

Some water got in there and rusted it. No biggie, just keep an eye on it. You don't want it getting to wet in there.
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KDXrider1989
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Post by KDXrider1989 »

Yeah, probably from that hole at the top. Thanks man
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Post by KDXrider1989 »

Made a lot of progress today since the parts finally came in, the entire front end is put together and installed on the bike. Motor is all together and torqued to specs. I would've had the bike running, but I'm not getting any spark when I kick it over. Has a brand new spark plug and everything is connected, what could be the problem? Another problem I encountered is that the kickstart doesn't engage at all if I kick it over fast, I have to make sure it catches and then kick over. Other than these two problems, the bike is pretty much ready to go. All the fluids are changed out and fresh, I'll post a video when it's running as soon as I can find out why its not getting any spark
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Post by chadr »

i used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to sharpen the teeth on my 89 kick starter gear but it was only a temporary help. It did allow me to start the bike with much less hassle, but I really need a new set of gears to cure it once and for all.
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Post by KDXrider1989 »

sweet, any ideas on why I'm not getting any spark? I can live with a slipping kickstarter for now
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Post by dfeckel »

Any idea if the bike had spark before the rebuild began? If so, it might simply be a grounding issue with the coil--make sure it has good metal-to-metal contact with the frame. Also make sure all the wiring is in good shape--nothing frayed/shorting/disconnected. Also make sure the spark plug wire is making good contact with the top of the plug. Little screw-off nubbin on the top of the plug in place? A little dielectric grease on the plug will help if the cap makes iffy contact. Of course, there could also be a problem with the stator, but hopefully not. Good luck...I want to see that bike running!

Also, do you have a picture of the sub valve with the press-fit dowel in place?
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Post by KDXrider1989 »

Yeah, I tested the coil already, put the positive end in the spark plug boot and the negative on the cylinder head and cranked it and it read 0. I already filed down both ends on the coil and on the frame where it bolts to, so I know it has good contact. I checked all the wires and everything was connected and in good shape last time I checked. I really hope it's nothing that has to deal with the stuff behind the flywheel, is it it only for the lights?

I forgot to get a picture of the repaired sub-valve because I was so focused to get the top end back on the bike. The repaired valve has a slightly taller guide stem, but it won't hurt. Thanks for the good luck!
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