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Hi, I'm new.

OK so I got a 97 220 seems to run fine, but smokes a little, I think its a little rich.

I pulled the left side cover off the kips shaft and it rotates smooth and snaps shut(I pulled the exhaust and verified the valves moved), but is there a way to check if its moving on its own at RPM? The bike has plenty of bottom end, but never seems to come up on pipe like any other 2 stroke I've ridden.

Welcome to the site. Any mods or is the bike stock? The gurus around here are likely to ask for more info.

I believe the 220 doesn't come "hard" on the pipe especially if you run the stock pipe. You can get more rev if you get the rev (or desert pipe or whatever they're called) fmf pipe and rejet.
What mods are you running and what jets do you have? Your main jet may be off, done any pug shop test?

As far as I can tell its all stock, as in it had the stock tires when I got it. The guy I got it from said he never changed anything, and he said he got it from a buddy that never changed anything either.

Plug, fluids, filter, and tires/tubes have been changed since,brakes this weekend. As I said it runs fine just a tad on the rich side.

Try the jetting guide.

I have two 220's and a 200. The 220's don't have any snap, they just sort of quit revving out. The 200 definately seems more pipey, like a weak motocross engine. I added the rev (desert) pipe to one of my 220's and it really changed the power characteristics. It was a little less torqey on the the bottom but it was much more willing to keep reving and pulling. Then I added the RB carb and head work and it's been extra big smiles since.

I have the woods pipe on the other 220 and it is all torque just off idle up to the lower mid-range, then it just quits reving at all. Almost feels like it's got a govenor or something.

The 200 is completly stock. Still has the airbox lid and the steel handlebars. I just got it and haven't had time or money to do much with it.

You asked -

I pulled the left side cover off the kips shaft and it rotates smooth and snaps shut(I pulled the exhaust and verified the valves moved), but is there a way to check if its moving on its own at RPM?

You can start and run the bike with that LH side cover removed (The round slotted one) to watch the KIPS shaft move.

In completely stock form the 220 is pretty dissapointing. If I was going to start from scratch With a used bike I would go in this order:

Take the top end apart and make sure the piston/rings/cylinder are in good shape. The OEM piston is known to crack and a Wiseco is a good replacement.
Jetting
Head from RBD
Check jetting again
Dessert Pipe
Check jetting again
Carb from RBD

By that point the motor is way too much for the chassis and you get to work on suspension, front and back, forever. It will just keep getting better.

I love a well set up 220 motor. I think it is just about perfect for off road use.

KarlP wrote: ... Take the top end apart and make sure the piston/rings/cylinder are in good shape. The OEM piston is known to crack and a Wiseco is a good replacement.

Jetting
Head from RBD
Check jetting again
Dessert Pipe
Check jetting again
Carb from RBD

Karl, would this be a good way to go for my 200 as well?

I'm not sure. Others have more experience with the 200.

It is my experience that the 220 gains the most from head work and pipe.

The 200 sounds like it is pretty good in stock form after jetting and maybe a pipe to suite the user.

RB had told me that the head mod was not as impressive on a 200. I have not tried it so I can't say if it is worth it or not.

rbates9 wrote:RB had told me that the head mod was not as impressive on a 200.

That seems to imply that there is still a performance gain to be had, if only marginal.

I did the head mod alone, with no other changes. For the price, it was well worth it. Improved the throttle response and made the bike feel more "crisp", although not a huge power adder. I ride a 200, of course!

If you're sending one or the other to RB, send both and save on the shipping.

Check for a oem piston or the condition of the piston.
If your not doing any power mods real soon jet it.

If you are doing mods -
I would put the PIPE on first.
The pipe is the biggest bang for your buck and the gains are a significant
return for the dollar.

Second I would do the carb mod and the head together.

Rejet after each change.

KarlP wrote:I'm not sure. Others have more experience with the 200.

It is my experience that the 220 gains the most from head work and pipe.

The 200 sounds like it is pretty good in stock form after jetting and maybe a pipe to suite the user.

NOPE
200 sucks in stock form !
Hardly get out of it's own way !

NOPE
200 sucks in stock form !
Hardly get out of it's own way !

I know. I wouldn't waste my time on a little 200 when the 220 is available

KarlP wrote:

NOPE
200 sucks in stock form !
Hardly get out of it's own way !

I know. I wouldn't waste my time on a little 200 when the 220 is available

After the mods on the 200 that 220 gets left behind sucking dust.
Just buy lots of cleaner and oil for your air filter and you'll be good !

I have three KDX's, two 220's and a bone stock 200. My RB modded and desert pipe equipped 220 is more linear from idle to the top of the power band and it has quite a bit of over rev compared to the stock 200. However the 200 seems to have much more midrange hit. Keep in mind it is totally stock...still has the airbox lid even.

I'd say that the fully modded 220 would spank the stock 200 but that is a diesel v gas comparison (as apposed to apples and oranges )

I'm looking forward to doing the RB mods to the 200 and comparing the difference it makes.

Brian wrote:I have three KDX's, two 220's and a bone stock 200. My RB modded and desert pipe equipped 220 is more linear from idle to the top of the power band and it has quite a bit of over rev compared to the stock 200. However the 200 seems to have much more midrange hit. Keep in mind it is totally stock...still has the airbox lid even.

I'd say that the fully modded 220 would spank the stock 200 but that is a diesel v gas comparison (as apposed to apples and oranges )

I'm looking forward to doing the RB mods to the 200 and comparing the difference it makes.

A 125 would spank the stock 200 but once you uncork it you have a
totally different ride

I just took my 220 out for the first time this season. It started on the second kick, and sounds good, but seems to be flat in the upper RPM's. There is definitely no shortage of power in the bottom end. It's a torquey wheelie machine like always, and if I shift early it feels awesome, but as soon as you try to wind it out, it just stops pulling. I pulled the screw cover, and the gear is working the way it should. Is it possible that the valves are stuck in?
Can I tell if I pull the pipe, and rev it up without the pipe on, and if they're stuck, will something be stripped, or broken now?

Thanks. I know nothing about this Kips business.