So i've been experiencing some dyna ring issues very similar to those of Sped66. ( http://kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10632)
I've installed my dynaring and by all estimations have installed it properly ( might not be the case though) and go to install the clutch cable and it is very tight maybe even too tight to begin with. The Clutch actuator is nearly in same position as those previously posted by Sped 66 and when I do clamp down the cable at the lever and on the cable the Clutch lever gets very stiff to pull on. I've got the adjustment to the point where I can push the bike in first with "minimal" resistance but am worried about tightening the cable too much for the adjustment.
I've been able to tighten to the cable down to the point where It is just barely catching on the clutch when I release the lever in 1st. I'm pretty sure that i will be able to tighten it enough so that the bike won't stall when I release the clutch in first but i dont know if i'll be able to pull in the clutch lever cause it'll be too tight?
am i missing something ? I read in other posts about removing a "washer" to help with the actuator position and likely effecting the tension needed on the clutch cable ... Is the washer in question the one between the pressure plate and the clutch basket?
Dyna Ring Install Tips
- 220ripper
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The washer in question is the one (or two) that may (or may not) be under the push rod that contacts the actuating shaft. It's there to optimize the angle of the arm when the cable is connected. If there's one or two of those washers under the push rod, then you could remove them and it would rotate the actuator arm clockwise.
It's definitely NOT the washer between the clutch hub and basket. Leave that one in place.
It's definitely NOT the washer between the clutch hub and basket. Leave that one in place.
David Eckel
- sped66
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Got this from Revloc today:
2 things to focus on:
1. Start with a completely slack cable, very important.
2. Do not remove cable from the clutch actuator arm at all. When you re-install the cover there will be about 1 mm gap that you will then use the cover bolts to tighten down on.
In the stable: '00 KDX220R, '02 XR250R
Gone but not forgotten: '80 XR80, '87 XR200R, '94 KDX250, '01 YZ426F, '86 XR220R
Gone but not forgotten: '80 XR80, '87 XR200R, '94 KDX250, '01 YZ426F, '86 XR220R
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I did not have much luck with the "I've got the adjustment to the point where I can push the bike in first with "minimal" resistance" aspect of the installation. Instead, I had better luck with what results I was getting while riding the bike.
1) With the engine running and in 1st gear - I can come to a complete stop and the engine won't die
2) While riding and under acceleration - the clutch will not slip ( I mean like before you had the dyna ring)
This got me fixed up and enjoying the best mod I ever did to my bike!
Good Luck!
1) With the engine running and in 1st gear - I can come to a complete stop and the engine won't die
2) While riding and under acceleration - the clutch will not slip ( I mean like before you had the dyna ring)
This got me fixed up and enjoying the best mod I ever did to my bike!
Good Luck!
'02 KDX200 Plated
'02 VL800
'02 VL800