Bike stopped running... NEIN!!!!!!!!

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Fieldie
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Post by Fieldie »

It may not work for you but I had the same issue with my KDX when I first got it.

We live on a big bitumen hill. I tried kick starting it for days. Tried roll starting it down the hill too, all to no avail. (it was a big hill, so the push uphill wore thin after three times...) Wheeled her back into the shed for some more kicking.

i discovered it by accident by knocking the kill switch during frantic kicking... It turned out that the kill switch was not engaging correctly. It was a newly fitted unit.

By flicking it to off position before the kick and on position during the downward stroke saw action. I'm not sure if it is just a sticky unit or the like...
Even nowadays, if she hasn't started after three kicks I flick the kill/run swithch out of habit.

It may not work for you but if you have tried all other options, give it a go... Good luck!!!
Fieldie
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Post by Fieldie »

Mine also never starts cold without choke, make sure the choke button is up til you get fire...
1997 KDX200-H3 Stock Standard except FMF Fatty pipe

...the glass is always half full...
KarlP
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Post by KarlP »

It seems Mr. Psycho has taken his deserved beating, eh?

There may cultural differences, you know. Ain't he Irish or some other furrin thing?

The solution to his current difficulty could be usefull to everyone.

Let the story play out........
'08 KTM200xc
'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
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Julien D
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Post by Julien D »

Hm. That would be a matter of opinion. My opinion is no. The beatings will continue until morale improves!

And as far as how the story plays out, it goes like this:

If you rewind your own source coil, and you begin to have problems with spark, check the resistance on your source coil. When you find it is well below spec, either re-wind it again, or replace it. Seems simple enough to me. Is there something else that needs to be said??
moto_psycho

Post by moto_psycho »

I will be replacing, the wire I used was enameled, and I soaked it in lacquer multiple times before wrapping it in insulation tape, then soaked in more lacquer (lacquer was provided by mate's gf who works for a company that produce coils for computer boards)... my guess is that under the engine's vibrations perhaps some of the enameling wore through where some of the lacquer didn't get to maybe...?

Its run really well for the past few weeks, starting 1st kick every time, I'm glad to say I've tried it, but I'll be fucked if I'm spending another 5 hours wrapping hair thin wire...

useful websites

http://www.dragonfly75.com/moto/CDI.html

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/kawasaki ... 332-0.html
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Julien D
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Post by Julien D »

Also consider that the lacquer may have damaged or weakened the factory enamel. These types of things often do not mix well.

Can we ease up on the F word, please? Never saw much of it on here before you came around.
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Tedh98
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Post by Tedh98 »

>|<>QBB<
juliend wrote:Can we ease up on the F word, please? Never saw much of it on here before you came around.
You are so closed minded. :mrgreen:
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TWMOODY
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Post by TWMOODY »

>|<>QBB<
juliend wrote:Also consider that the lacquer may have damaged or weakened the factory enamel. These types of things often do not mix well.

Can we ease up on the F word, please? Never saw much of it on here before you came around.

+1
I think I seen a post to that effect somewhere not to long ago.......


>|<>QBB<
TWMOODY wrote:A lacquer based coating will melt into the original coating
that could possibly cause a short with in the winding.
Not saying it will defiantly cause a problem but this is
a possibility.
moto_psycho

Post by moto_psycho »

as I said, it was provided for me from someone who works in producing coils (albeit their coils are fiber coated not enameled)

new one ordered
moto_psycho

Post by moto_psycho »

that beign said i doubt it would have waited roughly 2 months to break through, vibration i would say is the most likely cause
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