understanding how to use tusk crank puller

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understanding how to use tusk crank puller

Postby chadr » 10:04 pm Mar 04 2011

I have a 98 yamaha rt 180 that I recently took apart to rebuild the crankshaft. I sent it out to have the crank rebuild done - not doing that myself. I see that tusk makes a tool that pulls the crank into the bearings during assembly. I am not talking about the tusk case splitter here.

So I am considering getting the tool but I am confused by one of their pictures in the manual. I thought the idea what to apply pressure against the inner bearing race, not to apply pressure to the balls. Check out the 4th image in the manual. The puller is not flush against the inner bearing race. Is it common practice to pull the crank and not support the inner race?

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/docs/Tusk%20Crank%20Puller%20Installer%20instructions.pdf

I know the oven/freezer method is possible too but the puller just sounds nice to have. If I used it I would add some pieces of pipe or something so that pressure is only on the inner race. Am I being over cautious?

One day this may apply to my kdx as well, so its all relevant.

Thanks for any replies/discussion.

Chad
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Postby Slick_Nick » 11:51 pm Mar 04 2011

I have the pulled an love it. Search rockymountainatvmc on YouTube and look at the two stroke bottom end rebuild video. Shows how to use it
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Postby chadr » 07:07 am Mar 05 2011

I watched those videos a couple weeks ago. Does the puller sit on the inner race? It doesn't seem like it.
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Postby Julien D » 09:18 am Mar 05 2011

Nick is the only person I've heard say they like it. Otherwise I've heard it's a waste of money. If you have the case splitter, I see no need for the crank tool. It will only work on the flywheel side of the KDX crank. You'll still have to use the heat/freeze method on the RH side. If you have freeze the crank and heat one side of the case, why not just heat both case halves and avoid purchasing the tool?

Just my opinion, of course. Splitting and reassembling is so easy without it, I don't see the need for it.
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Postby Slick_Nick » 09:35 am Mar 05 2011

>|<>QBB<
juliend wrote:Nick is the only person I've heard say they like it. Otherwise I've heard it's a waste of money. If you have the case splitter, I see no need for the crank tool. It will only work on the flywheel side of the KDX crank. You'll still have to use the heat/freeze method on the RH side. If you have freeze the crank and heat one side of the case, why not just heat both case halves and avoid purchasing the tool?

Just my opinion, of course. Splitting and reassembling is so easy without it, I don't see the need for it.


Lemme guess, you use the case bolts to bring the case halves together? :roll:
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Postby Slick_Nick » 09:38 am Mar 05 2011

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chadr wrote:I watched those videos a couple weeks ago. Does the puller sit on the inner race? It doesn't seem like it.


The puller attaches to the crank, and then I use the provided bar stock to brace it across the outside of the case itself.
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Postby Julien D » 12:32 pm Mar 05 2011

Lemme guess, you use the case bolts to bring the case halves together? :Rolling Eyes:



There is hardly any need to "pull" anything together using the heat and cold method. You said as much yourself when you talked about the crank slipping right into the RH case using heat and cold. If I have to heat one side, why not heat both and save the money from buying a tool that only half works?

All I do:

Freeze bearings and crank, heat case halves.
Drop bearings into case halves.
Heat case halves with bearings.
Remove RH case from oven, install cold crank through hot bearing
Seat transmission components
Remove LH case from oven, install over crank
Tap into place with rubber mallet.

Just putting out there what works for me to the OP. I can't see paying full price for a tool that only does half of it's job. If it works for you and you dig it, then great. I'm glad you're happy with your purchase. I don't need it, so I'm not spending my money on it.
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Postby chadr » 02:59 pm Mar 07 2011

Nick

The puller doesn't apply pressure against the inner race when you have it supported by the outside of the case so all the pressure is going through the bearings. Must not be enough pressure to deform them. It appears that it what Tusk is hoping anyway. It could be the tusk puller does push against the inner race when not using the support bars across the case?

Juliend, I may try the heat/cool method, or I'll make a crank puller that presses against the inner race.

I'm probably being to concerned here.
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