Prepping Cylinder for Plating

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Prepping Cylinder for Plating

Postby kkim » 11:06 pm Feb 22 2011

I'll be shipping my cylinder off to Langcourt for replating shortly and have some questions.

1. They say to remove all studs and locating pins. Any help on how to best accomplish that w/o marring the pieces?

2. From reading other posts, I know I need to remove that hex plug at the bottom of the cylinder below the exhaust port...

3. In the KIPs main shaft housing, there are rubber seals/gaskets that support the main valve rod. Do they need to be removed? Looks sorta hard to get those outta there w/o destroying them. any advice?

4. When sending in the piston w/ the cylinder, do they need the rings too or just the piston for measurements/sizing?

Thanks,
Kelly
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Re: Prepping Cylinder for Plating

Postby frankenschwinn » 11:34 pm Feb 22 2011

>|<>QBB<
kkim wrote:I'll be shipping my cylinder off to Langcourt for replating shortly and have some questions.

1. They say to remove all studs and locating pins. Any help on how to best accomplish that w/o marring the pieces?


Thanks,
Kelly


Use two nuts tightened against each other.

http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-remov ... le-338014/
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Re: Prepping Cylinder for Plating

Postby kkim » 11:52 pm Feb 22 2011

frankenschwinn wrote:
Use two nuts tightened against each other.

http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-remov ... le-338014/


thanks. I was thinking of doing that, but was wondering how hard it was to remove the stud from the head w/o breaking it. No problems on an aluminum head and a steel stud, I suppose?
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Postby Mr. Wibbens » 12:06 am Feb 23 2011

I'd think I'd wanta apply some heat
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Postby scheckaet » 12:21 am Feb 23 2011

i didn't need heat on mine to remove the stud, the double nut trick works well
you should be able to remove the seal without damaging them, but i'd replace them anyway cheap insurance and you'll need a gasket kit anyway. I think tusk or cometic has them in the top end kit (cometic i think)
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Postby dfeckel » 02:43 pm Feb 23 2011

The double nut technique worked well on my 20-year-old E cylinder without heat or penetrant. I was surprised it didn't need either.
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Postby Mr. Wibbens » 02:49 pm Feb 23 2011

I'd rather use heat, be whole helluva lot safer than breaking a stud :wink:
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Postby scheckaet » 03:01 pm Feb 23 2011

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Mr. Wibbens wrote:I'd rather use heat, be whole helluva lot safer than breaking a stud :wink:

agreed
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Postby kkim » 11:26 pm Mar 01 2011

So, to follow up on this. I removed the studs using the double nut method. I sprayed some PB Blaster around the stud bases and let sit for a few hours. Removing the studs was easy and went without incident.

The locating studs were sprayed with PB Blaster as well and using a Vise grips and a folded up paper towel between the jaws to prevent marring them, the locating pins came out without problems as well.

The two rubber gaskets/seals for the KIPs main valve shaft were removed with a small screwdriver, but was unable to do so without damaging them, so I'll have to order some as my Wiseco top end gasket kit that came with the Wiseco piston kit I purchased dis not include those KIPs gaskets/seals.

My only failure was that hex plug at the bottom of the cylinder directly under the exhaust. I tried an impact driver, soaking with PB Blaster and heating with a propane torch. No dice, so I gave up after a few attempts to save me from breaking or destroying something in the process. :roll:

The cylinder has been packed up and shipped off to Langcourt. I'll let them deal with that plug if it needs to be removed.

While the cylinder is away, I'll be busy cleaning and rebuilding everything else on the bike, so be ready for some more questions for help.

Thanks to everyone who replied... much appreciated.
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Postby scheckaet » 11:37 pm Mar 01 2011

make sure they know you left it and won't ship it back cuz it NEEDS to be removed for plating.
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Postby kkim » 11:47 pm Mar 01 2011

Thanks, will do.
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